Building Materials and Construction Technology
oskis 123: Not necessarily. When installing geothermal heating, the intervention during implementation is not that significant. Since the pipes from the borehole contain some form of alcohol, you don't need to go particularly deep. But if you can afford to do both at the same time, then...
BerntS: Awesome, thanks!!!! I'm not holding you responsible, but it gives me a good indication that it should work, and your calculation suggests that I should reinforce quite a bit and distribute the force directly under the load point.
Hubbe2: Not plexi, it cracks under such load. Polycarbonate (PC) is what you should use, which can be mistreated in any way without chipping. However, PC cannot withstand cleaning with alcohol-based solvents.
Ola78: [citat] I'm not sure I agree with you on that point. You're right that it's not needed to attach the studs, but when you're installing the wind protection, you have to have it. Exterior gypsum is usually installed with screws/nails c/c 200 on the edges, and windproofing fabric is stapled with c/c 100 mm, and this won't be easy to achieve if you don't have a wall plate at the top of the wall to
Dr_Jerkyll: Hmm, they did look good. I'm thinking that cement retains moisture, so that might be better. Then you don't have to cast, and you could start by attaching the lower part of the post to three or four L-brackets and then fill with slightly larger natural stones a couple of decimeters?
Helioz: The surface coating will not help with the cracks; they need to be injection-filled with either two-component urethane, epoxy, ultra-fine injection cement, or crystallization technique that flows down and seals the crack. In this article, you will find more information about these methods:
Martin_355: Hi. Not sure if this is the right forum. My parents changed the windows in the house last winter. After the snow disappeared, one of the steps on the outdoor staircase started to "peel". It's on the front edge and the stone is releasing more and more, the sand is becoming more visible. The people who installed the windows used the staircase as support, but it wasn't much. I brought it up with
Ola78: [citat] Google the word span table and you will find information about what different joists can handle. At http://www.byggbeskrivningar.se you will find a design program where you can calculate various constructions and spans and find out which dimensions you can choose. Also at http://www.traguiden.se you will find various tables about what different dimensions can handle for spans.
rickardg: Thank you for your response. In the case of an inverted EW-slab, I was wondering if it would be reasonable for another concrete element manufacturer to calculate and manufacture a corresponding inverted slab, is it difficult for the manufacturer to calculate? Regarding movement allowance, is there a maximum length that does not require movement allowance? There are concrete suppliers who cast in
Charlotte Andersson: Wood or concrete is primarily a cost issue. Concrete slabs dampen sound better, have less flex, experience less deflection over time, move in the same way as the walls but cost more and require a stronger construction in the foundation and ground floor. A wood floor that is properly dimensioned and installed meets most people's requirements for sound insulation. Concrete slabs can then be divided
Charlotte Andersson: If your slab is cast-in-place, the chance is greater that you could make the modification than if it consists of prefabricated concrete elements. This is because cast-in-place constructions are often over-dimensioned so that any problems during casting do not jeopardize the strength of the finished slab. Prefabricated concrete is cast in manufacturing-controlled factories where material usage is
Charlotte Andersson: If the roof consists of raw wood paneling, which is then covered with felt and fitted with roof tiles, it is possible to attach to the paneling. Preferably use fittings that are adapted for this and distribute the weight on the backside. Alternatively, you can fasten the entire structure to the rafters. Considering that the terrace will be used for stepping out onto, you should contact an
lofe: [citat] I have also seen this on newer stairs. I'll probably throw in a thin plastic washer to prevent creaking.
pbengtsson: [citat] It took 3 hours, a crane truck unfortunately couldn't reach. Then it took some time to weld the jigs, also spent time painting them, not sure what we were thinking there, maybe we'll put them on Blocket now that there are instructions on how they should be used.
Mikael_L: I actually don't know, but maybe someone else does ...
huggan: Currently in the planning stage and want to keep track of a few things. Concrete floor there now, planning to frame with 120*45 wooden studs and insulate. Should I use styrofoam? What should I have between the studs and the concrete? Paper? On the studs, then it will be 22 mm floor chipboards and finally click flooring, I think. The walls I will frame with 95*45 and insulate with gullfiber, then
barajag: [citat] Aha. I would have put the gypsum first, then the panel against it, the panel is much more durable.
Jan-Å: [citat] But how often does that happen? There is felt under the metal that takes care of any water on the few occasions it happens. But it is correct that the seam is the problem with a metal roof, especially in strong winds.
Helioz: For this project, regular outdoor white glue works fine if the hole is tight. If there's a bit of a gap, it's better to use PU glue that foams a bit and is gap-filling. If the wood is damp, PU is more suitable as it cures with the help of moisture. Both types of glue will provide a joint stronger than the wood around it. Both types of glue can withstand temperatures and moisture, but PU glue
barajag: [citat] Hard to say without seeing the conditions, but you're probably in the ballpark. What complicates such jobs is if you can't get all the way to the house with a normal crane truck. But can't everything be lifted at once when the crane is already on site?
Mikael_L: It's my local hardware store where I buy 1000 collated screws for 110-120 SEK. K-Rauta used to have, at least before, the same low price.
shogo99: It is windows of this model: http://www.okna.lv/index.php?name=data&elid=32#title
KTM950: I have a 1 1/2-story house with a basement from the 40s, built in white aerated concrete all the way up to the ridge on the gables. The intermediate floor is made of wood, the ground floor is concrete (as is the basement floor), and the roof structure is wood with incorrect additional insulation of sawdust and mineral wool done in the 80s. The house has two dormers in wood, where the walls also
Carla: Okay, that's great, thanks, so Most wanted is indeed a cheap and fairly simple option.
jonas_720: Hello, I have searched a bit on the forum regarding house extensions, but can't find much. We live in a small house of 70 sqm, one floor with a basement, and are thinking of extending the house by 40-50 sqm. I assume we need to pour a concrete slab on the ground and have a level difference between the old and the new. But does anyone know where to start? Should I talk to an architect first, you
Johan Gunverth: You need to sand the floor to prevent it from becoming yellow/dark. Then you can oil or wax the floor. With or without pigment. Without pigment is easiest to maintain.
Frassematte: Thank you for the tip! No visible nail, so it will probably be spackling and painting, or målarfog. It doesn't risk cracking?
RedTop: Good points! You should definitely pay special attention to the wind load component. The reason for the change is purely aesthetic. I plan to have it open up to the ridge and want to create as much free space as possible. [citat]
Helioz: If it is håltegel, you should use a special facade plug that is adapted for it, alternatively, you can also use chem anchors, which are the strongest but a bit more labor-intensive and expensive. I'll complement with some videos: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nn-6ALF4ycU http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ub_tCUFuvqc