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insulate exterior wall with mineral wool (serporoc)
Hello
We are in the process of insulating our old plastered brick exterior walls with mineral wool boards. The reason is that the wall only has a single brick and lacks an insulating air gap. Cold in winter and warm in summer is the result. Now when we're putting up the mineral wool boards, they are completely soft and look like regular insulation. I'm worried that moisture will accumulate in them and lead to mold problems in the future. I was expecting a harder panel with ventilation holes like nikeplattor (wood wool). We are going to net and plaster on top. Am I being paranoid or? Experience with insulation using mineral wool from maxit or others is appreciated.
We are in the process of insulating our old plastered brick exterior walls with mineral wool boards. The reason is that the wall only has a single brick and lacks an insulating air gap. Cold in winter and warm in summer is the result. Now when we're putting up the mineral wool boards, they are completely soft and look like regular insulation. I'm worried that moisture will accumulate in them and lead to mold problems in the future. I was expecting a harder panel with ventilation holes like nikeplattor (wood wool). We are going to net and plaster on top. Am I being paranoid or? Experience with insulation using mineral wool from maxit or others is appreciated.
Hello again.
I have looked up the details. The mineral wool board is Maxit Serpo 321, which is attached to the exterior walls and looks like yellow pressed insulation. On top of this, reinforcement mesh Erpo 323 should be applied. Then two layers of render should be applied, first Serpo 340 base coat and finally Serpo 342 facade mortar. The thickness should be about 2 cm, so it's thick render and not thin render.
The problem that has occurred is that the craftsmen have applied soft nylon mesh Serpo 397 on the board and applied thin render on top. I thought they would mesh and render afterward, but they said it was done. I started to suspect something was wrong and had to check the work description on Maxit. According to them, this method can be used on hard mineral wool boards but not on the ones we have. I suppose it easily gets damaged with such thin render if it's soft underneath. Now they will mesh on top of the render and redo it.
Does one have to check everything oneself when paying for it to be done correctly? An addition, when they did the roof, they forgot the plastic (vapor barrier).
But my question is if this additional insulation is good, provided it is finally done correctly.
//Carolin
I have looked up the details. The mineral wool board is Maxit Serpo 321, which is attached to the exterior walls and looks like yellow pressed insulation. On top of this, reinforcement mesh Erpo 323 should be applied. Then two layers of render should be applied, first Serpo 340 base coat and finally Serpo 342 facade mortar. The thickness should be about 2 cm, so it's thick render and not thin render.
The problem that has occurred is that the craftsmen have applied soft nylon mesh Serpo 397 on the board and applied thin render on top. I thought they would mesh and render afterward, but they said it was done. I started to suspect something was wrong and had to check the work description on Maxit. According to them, this method can be used on hard mineral wool boards but not on the ones we have. I suppose it easily gets damaged with such thin render if it's soft underneath. Now they will mesh on top of the render and redo it.
Does one have to check everything oneself when paying for it to be done correctly? An addition, when they did the roof, they forgot the plastic (vapor barrier).
But my question is if this additional insulation is good, provided it is finally done correctly.
//Carolin
Yes, unfortunately, you need to constantly check these craftsmen. Once the job is done, you can call yourself an expert.
To the question: If they redo the job and follow Maxit's work instructions 100%, you will get a good facade. The "putsen" that has been done is not a problem to remain in place. I assume they use the specified net, attach it with Maxit's fastening equipment (I don't know what they are called, but I'm sure you do), spray on the required amount of plaster so that it achieves the required thickness. Make sure the netting isn't behind all the plaster, but that it can be enveloped by the plaster material.
Good luck.
To the question: If they redo the job and follow Maxit's work instructions 100%, you will get a good facade. The "putsen" that has been done is not a problem to remain in place. I assume they use the specified net, attach it with Maxit's fastening equipment (I don't know what they are called, but I'm sure you do), spray on the required amount of plaster so that it achieves the required thickness. Make sure the netting isn't behind all the plaster, but that it can be enveloped by the plaster material.
Good luck.
The house insulation turned out well, and we chose Serporoc's white silicate paint, which was supposed to be the only one that truly breathes, as other silicate paints contain binders. However, we have a problem; down by the ground where the snow lay against the wall, the paint has come off, and the plaster has cracked and come loose from the foundation. Why? We have drained the basement, and it is right above the strip above the insulation boards. Maybe water couldn't drain away and froze, causing the plaster to burst. Is there a construction defect? What can we do?
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