Moisture-resistant and ability to make "mustätt"
The storage is insulated and will have basic heating
Can lay rough-sawn boards, but it will be lengthwise, so I'm forced to cut the last board in each section.
The easiest is to take a sheet material and saw to exact measurements and then just insert. But which sheet?
 
Why not split a råspont?

Regards
Just me
 
We manufacture blind bottom boards down at the factory. Contains extra wax.
 
Ola78
Asfaboard or utegips might work, split the board in half so it fits nicely for a 600 compartment.
 
Raw planking, well, the dimensions don't fit to make it good, then I'd have to split on both sides in each compartment lengthwise, I think it's easier with a board.
Asfaboard might work but I'm a little afraid that it is not stable enough to keep mice out. Outdoor gypsum is better in that case and has the advantage of being easy to lay.
Does that board with wax exist on the market?
 
Lars S said:
Tongue and groove board, well, the measurements don't fit for it to be good, then I would have to split on both sides in each bay lengthwise, I think it's easier with a sheet.
Asfaboard might work but I'm a little afraid that it's not stable enough to keep mice out. Exterior gypsum is better in that case and has the advantage that it's easy to lay
That board with wax, is it available on the market?.
Aha. Thought you had started with tongue and groove board, hence my suggestion.:D No, the easiest is probably asfaboard with some short pieces of tongue and groove board. But if you have a lot of lumber lying around, you save a few bucks by cutting them into 55 pieces.:)
 
Styrofoam!
 
Oljeboard was a new acquaintance for me, could be an alternative.

Styrofoam, yes, then you avoid the subfloor. Have you laid it, isn't there a risk of thermal bridges if the fit is not perfect against the floor joists?
 
Styrofoam isn't mouse-proof, is it? I used OSB which I screwed from underneath into the floor joists. OSB was the cheapest board I found that I feel confident won't sag and additionally the mice won't gnaw through. While the subfloor was down, I took the opportunity to seal all the gaps I found. There were gaps up in the walls and between the "compartments" between the floor joists. I filled the gaps with foam sealant and nailed masonite on top. If mice get into one compartment, they'll have trouble getting to the next.

Erik
 
Waxed fiberboard sheets in masonite 6.2x550x1200 mm (smooth side down) or blind floor plywood 9x550x1200 mm if it needs to be walk-through safe.
 
ClasseClas
I used a blind bottom board extra waxed customized for cc600. It becomes tight and nice. Possibly, you can list around the board before laying insulation, especially if the framework is skewed.
 
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Avemo, I wouldn't have suggested Styrofoam if I didn't know that mice don't chew through it. (Three "not"s in the same sentence, hope the message got through anyway :) ) Apparently it's too tough. Frigolit, on the other hand, doesn't work at all.
 
Thanks for all the tips, it will be either blindbottenplywood or possibly trossbottenmasonit. I'll decide at the hardware store.
 
Kurtivan said:
Avemo, I wouldn't have recommended Styrofoam if I didn't know that mice don't chew through it. (Three 'not's in the same sentence, hope the message still came through anyway :) ) Apparently, it's too tough. Polystyrene, on the other hand, doesn't work at all.
What do you base this claim on? I know several blind floors that are built with tongue-and-groove foam across the joists that have worked just fine.
 
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