Building Materials and Construction Technology
Raceman: In the link, you have someone experienced with concrete houses. If it's not already stated in the thread what is best, you can surely PM her. http://www.byggahus.se/forum/stenhus/161663-egenprojekterat-prefab-betonghus.html
sammi: Planning to additionally insulate the house with Finja's system of polystyrene network fiber plaster. Is it okay if the existing wall looks as follows: Siporex 200mm 30mm air gap 120mm brick facade
Jan-Å: Under the parquet, there should either be a concrete slab/framing if it's that kind of house, or a chipboard floor or wood planks if it’s a wooden house. So if you don't have underfloor heating, it’s of course a solution to screw the wall there after sawing off the parquet. Floating floors are tricky; we have a cheap laminate floor that reacted quite a lot last summer, resulting in ridges
Helioz: Snail dynamite might work? http://www.finjabetong.se/App_Resource/Page/file/bemix/3023-1.pdf However, it doesn't solve the problems with all the reinforcement. Dronco, for example (other manufacturers have it too), has a blade with diamonds on the outside, allowing you to cut reinforced concrete without wearing it out, it cuts through the iron as well. It might be worth using a 230 mm angle
Stensson11: As OHE writes, but also do the same on the underside.
SBH: If you are going to lay tile, think about what adhesive and grout you will use. Regular adhesive or grout is not suitable. It should preferably be frost-resistant.
eran: Thank you for the response. I think I’ll continue with the glesen that I take and pre-drill for the four screws I’m going to drive into the wall studs. Thick plyfa was extremely expensive. Then I’ll go ahead and drill for the short screws I use to attach the cabinets to the glesen. // Erik
largab: Luck?! That sounds very pessimistic. Luck is in love and gambling :-) In this case, if you follow common sense, regulations, no hidden pipe joints, good building materials, etc., you would have tremendously bad luck if there is ever any damage where you need help from the insurance company.
The Tor: Soft joint sounds interesting. But then I guess I first have to carve out a little groove to lay the joint in? Another idea I had was to apply some type of Easy Cover but it might also crack? Even if there isn't much movement.
Randulf: It's not very rough, but enough for the little girl to get abrasions if she drags the back of her hand against it, so it really shouldn't be a problem to put the plaster over it. But I think I can avoid buying new door casings if I remove the masonite first.
pickels: Sealed a bit with windproof paper in the gaps so that it shouldn't blow too much into the insulation, this should be fine without causing any issues in the future? Best regards, Niclas [bild]
Linnea__: Hello! Thank you for your response. They have now said they don't have anything suitable. I'm considering water glass, sodium silicate. Could that work?
Roundup: Another option is to chisel your way through with some form of hammer, like an electric or pneumatic one. It worked for me, at least, to knock a hole in a layer of bricks for a soot hatch and such. You might need to repair some joints afterwards with a bit of mortar, but that's relatively easy to do.
BigGitt: A galvanized metal angle on the other side and screw straight through.
Gaffe: I have some thoughts about installing waterborne underfloor heating on an existing concrete slab in the hallway, toilet, and a living room (floor covering will be tiles). - The house was built in the late 70s, I have not yet taken possession and can't answer if there is insulation under the slab. (Drilling a sample will provide an answer on this) - I've looked into LK-systems and Flooré. Anyone
andersmc: Cardboard and plastic have completely different purposes and are not something you can choose between. The cardboard is usually placed outside the insulation to prevent wind from blowing into it. The plastic is on the inside to prevent condensation in the insulation. If you choose to use plastic, it is pointless to place it here and there. It must be fully covering and completely sealed.
shogo99: What type of inspector should I look for if I want a review of our subfloors on the upper floor of our newly built 1 1/2-story house? I contacted an inspection company, but they just referred me to SBR and a technical consultant. Does anyone have someone to recommend or tips on in the Mälardalen area?
maisac: How have the interior walls been going? I'm thinking about the same thing myself, lifting the interior walls that are on the base plates in my 70s house - and trying to get plastic in between. For the newly renovated bathroom's studs, maybe one can do as you said, place steel profiles next to the existing studs and then somehow remove the wooden studs. Additionally, I'm tearing out the entire
haavard: It's probably like smoking. One cigarette is not dangerous.
Ekand: Will check on it. Thanks
MostWanted: OK thanks for the tips guys! I'll pop in a couple of extra expansion plugs between the existing ones since the distance between the studs will be quite long.
JakanGranit: Post pictures along with as detailed a description as possible of what/where the pictures depict. If you work as a contractor, you probably know a carpenter or something similar; buy two crates of pilsner and "invite" him/her over... If you are really curious, you can talk to your municipality; the planning office has drawings that you can then consult a structural engineer about, or
hahalj: Thank you, I'll put a piece of tjärpapp between the post and the concrete.
KnockOnWood: http://www.jula.se/skydd-mot-gnagare-8-pack-140367
Anders_Nilsson: [citat] The idea of placing the gypsum on standing studs (the 145s) was that it feels stiffer sideways because you get more edge area that is directly connected to the wood. You can then attach to both the standing stud and the sill/rafters. But maybe it will be stiff enough anyway? Otherwise, there is the recipe with the Västkustskiva. The edge beams are thus the frame (approx. 200mm) of
harry73: It may be true if the house needs the wall for wind stability, etc. A non-load-bearing wall can also become 'load-bearing' if there are other heavy non-load-bearing walls on top of this wall. Your house with 40cm thick load-bearing stone walls hardly needs an 11 cm thick interior wall, and your apartment is directly under the attic, so there's not much load on top of the wall. Bring in a
cederbusch: Now that we're renovating the bathroom, it became inevitable to renovate the bedroom at the same time. Previously, there was a space between the two rooms where the attic stairs were located. Now an attic hatch is in place, and the space will instead become a closet. There's a bit of a space issue, so we (my wife) want sliding doors. I'm thinking of two that overlap. We went to look at tracks for