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· Västra Götalandslän
· 7 posts
I'm thinking about laying new tiles in the kitchen, which has a basement/garage under the concrete floor, after many tiles have cracked. The concrete floor, consisting of prefabricated concrete elements, sags two to three cm in the middle and I want to level it before tiling. Can I pour a tombola-mixed layer of concrete, two to three cm thick in the middle and level it, or do I have to buy a lot of expensive bags of leveling compound? What concrete quality is recommended in that case?
When I started removing the cracked tiles, I found pieces of linoleum flooring, chipboard floor. Under that, there was a masonite board and underneath tar paper with a layer of cork crumbs on it. I haven't had time to tear it out yet, but I assume the concrete floor is under the tar paper. Was this a common way to lay tile flooring in the 60s-70s? Can I lay my new tiles directly on my soon-to-be-leveled concrete floor instead?
When I started removing the cracked tiles, I found pieces of linoleum flooring, chipboard floor. Under that, there was a masonite board and underneath tar paper with a layer of cork crumbs on it. I haven't had time to tear it out yet, but I assume the concrete floor is under the tar paper. Was this a common way to lay tile flooring in the 60s-70s? Can I lay my new tiles directly on my soon-to-be-leveled concrete floor instead?
It is not very successful with regular concrete because it takes time to dry (=shrink completely). Manufacturers of adhesive usually state that concrete should have cured for 3-6 months before laying tiles. The time depends on the brand.
Member
· Västra Götalandslän
· 7 posts
Aha, if there is plenty of time, it's ok.
And installing the tiles directly on concrete. Is that good? To me, it sounds like the most logical option, no mold-prone fiber materials in between. Perhaps an electric underfloor heating mat embedded to compensate for a colder floor?
And installing the tiles directly on concrete. Is that good? To me, it sounds like the most logical option, no mold-prone fiber materials in between. Perhaps an electric underfloor heating mat embedded to compensate for a colder floor?
don't have a good answer to your question about why there is particle board, etc. But tiles are often laid directly on concrete. can see 3 different reasons for why it looks like this for you:
1. It was originally a linoleum floor.
2. Something with insulation?
3. Could it possibly be that the concrete slabs move a little, risk of cracks?
1. It was originally a linoleum floor.
2. Something with insulation?
3. Could it possibly be that the concrete slabs move a little, risk of cracks?
You need to check if what you level with can be applied that thin...Tjuvkilsbyggare said:
Fine concrete and quick-setting compounds usually require layers of at least about 3 cm. And then it would be 6 cm thick for you, where the dip is deepest.
But you just have to ask/check each product individually, as it varies so much.
I react to the fact that a concrete floor slab sags in the way you describe. As far as I know, concrete is not elastic, so there should be cracks if it has a sagging of 3 cm.
Member
· Västra Götalandslän
· 7 posts
Well, it's cracked. You can study it from the ceiling of the basement floor, but I don't think it's a problem. It's been like that for many years. However, I have horizontal cracks in the exterior walls (which are 2/3 below ground) that are concerning. I think water on the outside freezes in the winter and pushes the walls inward. I need to dig out and drain sometime...