H halj said:
Xella multipor should be an option, maybe a bit expensive compared to regular insulation.

[link]
I used it in my basement and I'm so damn satisfied!
From having cold walls and a raw feeling to warm walls.
Completely without the risk of condensation forming in various air spaces.
The only downside is that no fixings can be made in the material.
 
N Nyatag said:
recommends the craftsmen to frame up interior walls, otherwise it will be cold. Their suggestion is steel studs, air gap, OSB and then drywall - everything will float above the ground so no contact with the ground.

treatment
I suspect your craftsmen are carpenters, and what do they know about brick and plaster? They can't do anything but wood, plastic, drywall, and studs. I guess that most of the moisture damage was at the junction between the floor and the wall, and it is most likely ground moisture that caused this. Remember, you can't drain away the ground moisture that exists in the soil the house sits on. Sooner or later it will become too moist and also difficult to inspect behind all the boards.

Stick to inorganic materials as you planned. Plaster and silicate painting and sleep peacefully is my advice.
 
Matti_75 Matti_75 said:
Basement walls should be insulated on the outside.
That was the penny that dropped for me haha, I was a bit slow on the uptake.
 
P Patrik Hazard said:
I've used it in my basement and I'm so darn satisfied!
From having cold walls and a raw feeling to warm walls.
Completely without the risk of condensation forming in various air gaps.
The only downside is that you can't make any fixtures in the material
Looking at it a little bit now - where did you land price-wise? And was it easy to plaster/paint afterwards?
 
G gaia said:
I suspect your craftsmen are carpenters, and what do they know about brick and plaster? They only know wood, plastic, drywall, and beams.
I guess that most of the moisture damage was in the corner between the floor and wall, and it's most likely ground moisture causing this. Keep in mind that you cannot drain away the ground moisture that exists in the ground the house stands on. Sooner or later it becomes too damp and it's also difficult to inspect behind all the panels.

Stick to inorganic materials as you've planned. Plaster and silicate paint and rest assured is my advice.
Thanks - their proposal was with steel studs and zero contact with the floor, but still - it feels like it can go wrong and the only pro is that it's easier to screw things up later and it's quick to set up the system.
 
A big thank you to everyone who contributed! I've decided to skip OSB and wait a bit - move in with the basement raw and see how it feels before making a decision.
 
N Nyatag said:
Looking into it a bit now - where did you end up price-wise? And was it easy to plaster/paint afterwards?
I can't quite remember what it cost since it was a few years ago. One disadvantage was that you had to buy a full pallet. However, there are slightly different thicknesses that give different square meters per pallet, so if you calculate a bit and are a bit flexible with thickness, it's possible to match pretty well anyway. Very easy to plaster! You use the same Multipor mortar to glue the panels as you do for plastering. I had never plastered in my entire life and still got a really good result. Then I painted it with silicate paint.
 
P para said:
I used 10cm of stone wool and then built a 70mm lightweight concrete wall on the inside which was plastered
I'm considering doing the same, but can a 70mm lightweight concrete wall be stable?
 
J jhall said:
I'm considering doing the same, but can a 70mm leca wall be stable?
It became stable. Reinforced every or every other layer and anchored frequently to the wall behind.
 
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