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OSB in basement? How to finish wall
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Hello all knowledgeable people,
The draining from hell is finally coming to an end, and it's time to restore the entire basement of a house from 1946. Now the big question is what to do with the walls. Originally, I had thought of plaster and silicate paint, but since only about 60cm of the walls are actually below ground (and have been insulated now after the drainage), the craftsmen recommend framing up interior walls, as it would otherwise be cold. Their suggestion is steel studs, air gap, OSB, and then drywall - everything will float above ground so no contact with the ground.
However, I'm worried about having organic material built in, but I can't find any alternative that is completely inorganic (except for plaster/cement mortar) - can anyone share their opinion or have any suggestions?
If it's relevant, as mentioned, the house is from 1946, i.e., uninsulated floors in the basement - planning to keep it and just level with cement/spackle and paint with diffusion-open floor paint, the ceiling will get similar treatment.
The draining from hell is finally coming to an end, and it's time to restore the entire basement of a house from 1946. Now the big question is what to do with the walls. Originally, I had thought of plaster and silicate paint, but since only about 60cm of the walls are actually below ground (and have been insulated now after the drainage), the craftsmen recommend framing up interior walls, as it would otherwise be cold. Their suggestion is steel studs, air gap, OSB, and then drywall - everything will float above ground so no contact with the ground.
However, I'm worried about having organic material built in, but I can't find any alternative that is completely inorganic (except for plaster/cement mortar) - can anyone share their opinion or have any suggestions?
If it's relevant, as mentioned, the house is from 1946, i.e., uninsulated floors in the basement - planning to keep it and just level with cement/spackle and paint with diffusion-open floor paint, the ceiling will get similar treatment.
It has worked for 80 years, so leave it be! It won't get colder just because you've drained it.
The thing is that it had been elevated with gulull insulation - total rot and mold, which the house seller covered with new drywall and paint - so I've had to remove everything in the entire basement. Then there was also incorrectly installed underfloor heating that we also had to remove and, of course, we won't be installing new since I want to be able to see the floor if any water comes in. Therefore, I don't know how it will feel without everything.R Roger Ravnestam said:
Another thought, but I'm a bit unsure about how it looks on your end; if the height of the whole wall is hollow brick/concrete, you can also insulate with träullit that you then plaster on.
But a small disadvantage when you want to screw things onto the walls, you'll have to use long screws to reach the construction behind.
But a small disadvantage when you want to screw things onto the walls, you'll have to use long screws to reach the construction behind.
Wow, never realized you could use it like that - thanks!Luddis_1 said:
Another thought, but I'm a bit unsure of how it looks at your place, if the full wall's height is hollow brick/concrete, you can also insulate with träullit which you then plaster on.
But a slight disadvantage when you want to screw things onto the walls, then you'll have to use long screws to reach the underlying construction.
Xella multipor should be an option, maybe a bit expensive compared to regular insulation.
https://www.xella.se/sv_SE/brand-multipor
https://www.xella.se/sv_SE/brand-multipor
