Building Materials and Construction Technology
Oldboy: It's just a matter of layering. The more layers, the better soundproofing and fire protection. Just make sure to get long gypsum and wood screws.
Oldboy: We fenced our horse pastures during the first three years of this millennium. Most of the posts have a diameter of 5 cm. Corner and gate posts are thicker. As far as I can recall, not a single post has given way due to rot yet. Standard treated fence posts that every equestrian store carries. Should be NTR A. Buy those instead of square ones. They are pre-cut and pointed. Just knock/press them
Peter_Ker: Mouse bands are commonly used, but I'm not sure if they can be retrofitted. Not particularly expensive to test with.
Lillamyran: [citat] Yep, tonight I cut off 5 cm - it went very easily with a saw. Then I covered it with soil and it seems to work!
Bart: Cement mortar A is good for non-absorbent materials such as natural stone. You can find it at Bauhaus, K-bygg, Beijer, etc. The usual places.
z_bumbi: [citat] The conditions are still a fixed dock section and then possibly a floating dock. Personally, I would rather have a fixed dock in a smaller medium-sized lake, but a higher fixed and a slightly lower but large floating dock is a reasonable compromise. You have something that doesn't move and a part at swimming height with the possibility to detach and go around.
Henningelvis: Tap lightly with a hammer to see if the plaster is coming off or if it sounds hollow. Alternatively, run a wire brush over the areas where the paint has come off to see how extensive the damage really is. My experience after working on the basement is that there's usually more paint than you think that is loose. Whether or not you should replaster, I would say, depends on how much plaster comes
berteriksson: [citat] Yes, exactly. That's what I mean. :) Hope that's the case anyway. I've ordered stone wool.
Dracula: My parents and I have each used a wire brush to clean a textured plastered wall (walls) in a bedroom. This was to remove wallpaper glue, in preparation for skim coating. Totally unnecessary work we did, could have plastered over the mess directly. Recently read that asbestos has also been found in plastered interior walls. Damn it. I wonder if we've all inhaled this, without masks. It didn't
Bluegreengrey77: [citat] 4-5 coats. I've already tested it. The surface is grooved on the white primed raw board, so it gives a slightly shiny and different gloss. But as mentioned, it becomes tricky when it's glaze because everywhere it meets bare wood, you have to mask and cover since you can't apply more than 2 coats there. Each coat makes a darker, more opaque result. It then becomes patchy.
hapazard: You need relatively more cement to bind the fine sand than if you mixed in coarser fractions, so it's not necessarily economical to use the sand you have - at least not exclusively. But it might be worth doing anyway to avoid hauling gravel...
ks67990: Well, I don't really know yet. I'm trying to figure out what friends around have done that also works. There might be different solutions. Since it is under a cabin, it will be cramped to be able to stomp, so my idea was to partially replace but also perhaps add next to certain pillars. The idea was like this: ground cloth, macadam, concrete slab, some type of pillar, and finally an adjustable
Alexn72: [citat] The plaster shouldn't dry, the plaster should cure. This happens when there's moisture and carbon dioxide. If you remove moisture, the process stops. So the follow-up question is, when is this process complete?
Anonymiserad 23608: [citat] Your vapor barrier goes under the floorboards/underfloor heating, but the vapor barrier should be on top, under the parquet's impact sound insulation, alternatively a combination variant like Tuplex. [citat] Normally, you don't put a vapor barrier/vapor brake in the floor construction, but as long as it is dry and ventilated in the crawl space, it probably won't do any harm.
jonaserik: There is probably no shortcut for you; the plinths will tilt/give way over time even more outward. If they are on the edge of the slope, the risk is quite high. It will be a lot of work; you must dig and straighten the plinths and ensure they are firm around them. Possibly even move them in at least 30 cm to keep them standing. Too close to the slope is harmful. EDIT It might be possible to drive
PlankhusNiklas: And now I got an answer to the same question 2025 .....
Oldboy: You have most likely drilled into a resin pocket. It's hard to imagine anything else that could have remained moist 50 years later. Even pressure-treated beams dry out in a year or two depending on the surrounding environment. Probably dense-grown heartwood of high quality if there's still fresh resin in it.
Oldboy: Then it's steel beams that are necessary? It feels very overkill when regular studs work just fine.
Distordera: Thank you very much for the great input. Then I'll go with a 45x95 slightly larger with wedges. Have a nice evening!!
Angelica Cramer: [citat] Thanks for the tip about chemical anchors, it will probably be needed for my own kitchen! I've previously lived in older concrete buildings, but in different parts of the country and slightly different building techniques, the heaviest I've put up was a large electric bass. Mortar and wall putty will have to do, and a lot of patience. It felt a bit hopeless when I was standing with half a
yonna: Your suggestion fits well in a house from the turn of the century and resembles what I had. The bottom edge seems to be original with you. There is no reason to have slats up to the ceiling.
breakman: Here for example https://www.bauhaus.se/stolphatt-varmgalvaniserad-97x97mm
Biggle: [citat] Or polish over with plaster or similar.
Posselosse: Hello, I'm thinking about building a round house with a large glass section and wondering about its structural integrity. A total of 13m long glass section, measured on the outside of the curved wall. No interior walls along this part. On top of this, a low-sloping shed roof, about a 6-degree slope. Principle sketch attached. I generally think that the round shape will help stabilize everything,
Owil123: Hi, I have installed two open fireplaces. What do you think I should use in the joints? What kind of sealant?
datja: Can't you just trace in, alternatively, remove a suitable board and place the empty pipe in the space you get? Then cover with plaster.
nino: There are lots of threads and I have read many. I have a small apartment building with three floors where the apartment on the middle floor is going to be renovated. The house is built with wood from the 1950s with sawdust in the walls and floors. You can hear the neighbors talking quite well, and you can hear when they walk or drop something. One room has two exterior walls, one against a
BirgitS: It is a drywall if there are plasterboard panels in/on the wall. It has nothing to do with whether the wall is load-bearing or not. Real estate agents do not want to end up in trouble between two parties and always try to get people to agree. You don't need to worry about that. There is a risk that your help now may be considered as an admission that you provided incorrect information, should
cpalm: [citat] Shrinks (more) during the drying time to be more precise, which is one reason why plaster must be applied in several (centimeter-thick) layers. Other factors to consider: 1. Price. Husfix about 60 SEK/kg, gypsum plaster about 10 SEK/kg, lime mortar about 7 SEK/kg. 2. The comparative hardness of the materials, which affects the risk of crack formation where the materials meet - the more
z_bumbi: If the stone hasn't moved in 8 years, I would let the buyer fix it if needed or if they feel like it. The inspection is just to show the condition of the house and not a renovation list. You won't get your money back if you fix it, and if you're unlucky, something might collapse. If the previous owners of our house had done what you've done, we probably wouldn't have any loose stones today.