Building Materials and Construction Technology
aweste00: [citat] [citat] OK, thanks! It's hard to see, but three of the walls had a rather smooth surface but with some irregularities. Maybe it's clearer here: [bild] However, one of the walls was built later and it is definitely brushed: [bild] On the right side, I've built up a new wall, and I've been considering whether I should try to brush it to make it blend in. But I think I'd rather have all the
Mikael_L: Your two options are almost equivalent, i.e., equally bad. (Choose the one you think looks best) The only thing you need to consider is how to prevent the door from sagging on the opposite side of the hinges and becoming a rhombus instead of a rectangle. And in that regard, your two presented choices don't make much difference, but what matters is diagonal struts or inserting a shape-stable panel
Nicro: A wall plug is adapted to the thickness of what you need to fasten and whether it is concrete or lightweight concrete. It doesn't become stronger by setting it deeper as the expanding part remains the same.
Karrock: It might work. But choose a foam that hardens. Some types become a bit rubbery, and then it is difficult to spackle.
nimhed: This becomes more complex if you are going to insert a small element. Condensation and other factors you have to take into account. Keep it cool and set up your USB. Keep it simple.
Rademan: [citat] Hi! A few years later: how did it turn out? Regards, considering the same.
matte11: [citat] That could definitely be the case, sounds reasonable. Thanks! :)
Fredrik_Smedsgard: [citat] Am I not causing more trouble by getting moisture inside the wall? I will have vertical paneling, so it will likely be set on a horizontal batten against the framework. But then the moisture ends up there instead...
13th Marine: [citat] Looks like what's called Erge-bjälklag. I have one on one part of the house, but it's from 71 😬 Haven't seen anything like it in Sweden today, but maybe someone more in the construction field knows 🤔
evamino: I have a garage door from 1957 which needs a panel replacement. I've been searching and searching for something similar to this but can't find anything. Does anyone have suggestions on how I can achieve this look with narrow ribs with a little distance using wooden profiles that are available?
fekberg: [citat] It turned out great! One mistake I made, though, was not matching the trim so that it extended outside/under the door. This caused the outer pieces of the planks to absorb a bit of water. But it's only cosmetic. The conservatory retains heat and works well! [bild] [bild]
Frågan: I bought from skapamer.se when I covered a sauna vent. Convenient when you need a very small amount of material.
Tjrex: I had ordered a4. Especially if it is a saltwater pool. Order online from e.g. proffsmagasinet so you get them quickly and don't have to lie awake wondering if your c4 will last 5 or 10 years.
betongbenny: Hello! I am working on spacing out the ceiling in our living room/kitchen which is 68 sqm, and the lowest height of the ceiling is 2420 mm and the highest is as much as 2490 mm. That is, a difference of 7 cm, and at the top, it's chipboard with paper and then tongue and groove against the joists. My question is, how do I lower the ceiling as much as where it is the highest? I've read a bit about
Rafff: Stairs completed. Cost 2000kr for glue & sealant, 2000kr for oak trim, and 250kr to the coffee fund at work since the parquet flooring was leftover from a renovation. A slightly started before and after picture.
useless: Add some mortar and jiggle the cables and copper pipe before it sets so the holes become a few mm larger. But you might want to start by securing all the cables.
mexitegel: It doesn't contain that, but when you get the sand down it still locks the tiles.
Johan Gunverth: [citat] That's true. I did some tests a while ago, and there's basically no difference with the cooled slow method and regular dry cutting. The side that got the two cuts (a 10 mm opening in a 30x30x2 square tube swelled to 31 mm for both methods. Fairly easy to bend back to 30 mm with a clamp. So...I go with the regular "dry method" for the cuts and fine-tune with the wet. Noted that the cutting
vix79: Hello all happy builders, I am in the process of renovating the house we bought, built in 1970, split-level house. I have a few questions. On the lower floor, there have been raised floors on a rough slab, half of the lower floor, the other half has had a dry mix on the concrete slab. I have torn everything down and plan to replace it with underfloor heating, but have limited height and the idea
datja: Copper tarnishes. That looks nice. But you can use copper polish if you want it red and shiny for a year or so.
Byggkonsult89: Hello, Designer here! Could help with sizing, feel free to send a PM.
Mackey: This is roughly how it will be, at least if I get to decide. They are not spotlights on the underside of the loft; they are the legs of the flying bed I use as a loft in the web version of Sweet Home 3D. I didn't immediately figure out how to add an intermediate level. [bild]
erik_m_a: It is probably mostly complicated because it is in France and not Sweden. Expensive is relative to other things just as you say :)
Elnovis: [citat] I used AI and it says this. Thanks for the picture! Based on the appearance of the garage door, I can make an educated guess: Possible Wood Type: Teak is a strong option here. Here's why: Color: The warm, golden-brown tone with hints of darker grain is typical for teak, especially when it has been exposed to the elements and gained some patina. Graining: The irregular, somewhat "blotchy"
hamph1337: [citat] Unfortunately, the installer doesn't want to do the job because "he rarely gets approval from those damn sotare" .. I've contacted another company that, after much back and forth, is willing to take on the remains from the first one. Sometimes, apparently, it's best to get more references when choosing a craftsman. :D
King_al: Yes, we were thinking of keeping the floors, partly because it would be expensive to tear them out but mainly because they are nice :) I guess they have to be torn out in the kitchen to lay tiles? Or maybe it's not necessary? But regardless, it's nice to have underfloor heating with tiles. Since it's a 70s house, I've read that it might be good to redo the basement floors? Because of insulation.
Josefin Herolf: [citat] Thanks for the reply! Nice that you think the same as I hoped. The assembly instructions are only for the stove unfortunately. I'll have to keep puzzling. May I ask, do you have any idea what this might be worth if sold? Best regards, Josefin
Jimmie.L: Hello! I have an older house from around 1900, I believe, and I want to measure the moisture levels in the crawl space and basement since we've affected the house's construction. Currently, I have Shelly H/T (the round ones, so gen 1?), and they keep disconnecting. I'll try to get a better Wi-Fi signal, but I also think these need constant power instead of batteries to function optimally, and I
PerLind: [citat] Near the floor just above the skirting. It's a plasterboard wall.