Building Materials and Construction Technology
pacman42: Bump! I have given up on glulam outdoors where it is exposed to moisture, it doesn't last. Not by the sea on the west coast anyway. I have glulam in the trim boards on the glazing, they have started to rot after just a few years despite good moisture protection. They practically rotted from the inside out... Now I will try to find regular trim boards of sufficiently thick dimensions instead, but
Gizmokvack: For a change, I'm ahead of schedule. I plan to combine aesthetics with function. We have concrete floors and need sound-absorbing panels. I'm sketching out placing acoustic panels on the entire ceiling, and to avoid more material choices, it needs to match something already in the house. We have spruce flooring on the entire upper floor, and in theory, it should be an excellent choice, I think.
Detraw: Letting the pine boards extend under the underlie? That makes it easier for me now since I can just let the floor boards go all the way out and focus on the railing later. I was planning to lower the posts and anchor them in the floor joists, but I was a bit unlucky when I was thinking and ran the power lines for the floor heating along the back short side in the picture, so I can't open it up
Peter Petterson: [citat] Hello! Byggmax followed the ARN's decision and paid out every krona that the ARN thought I was entitled to :)
Derbyboy: [citat] 45x70 feels weak if you cut every other rafter at the bottom. It doesn't take much load for a 45x70 to bend when the span is 120cc Perhaps I'm thinking wrong
Dr.Mugg: [citat] Had you drilled a hole so that the threads were free from the support beam? Concrete screws are installed with impact. The simplest option would be to use nail plugs. [MEDIA=youtube]02tqejZ06ro[/MEDIA]
Tomtom79: [citat] We've torn down as much as we can when renovating. Some silly things were done in the past that aren't really good today. Electrical boxes mounted right through vapor barriers, 2 outlets in an entire room, etc. Removing the surfaces including drywall, running new electrical, many outlets, conduits for network, etc., and then putting up OSB+drywall makes the rooms of a completely different
RenoveringRenovering: Hi, I am building a casting mold for a retaining wall. As spacing for reinforcement in the wall, I am considering using something like this: https://www.velltra.se/product/vagg-och-valvdistans-allround-20-25mm What type of nail should I use to best attach it to the wall? I want to be able to disassemble the mold easily and break off the protruding nail without getting rust marks on the wall. Does
Jompax: Feedback on how it turned out, despite the lack of answers: I decided to try rough plastering myself, used Webercal 109 which is a hydraulic lime mortar (NHL 5) for priming. Applied two layers and personally think it turned out well. Tricky to fling the mortar on, but you learn over time. Moistened for three days after both layers. Will probably lime paint or use pure silicate paint (keim).
pette: I would place a platon strip between the wood and concrete there. I guess you have a little eaves that offer some protection from rain there as well.
ferlin75: There it is intended to sit, instead of attaching a plasterboard on the outside of the wall and then tiles? Don't know how it will look.
Demmpa: It is made of four parts, partly the loose part (two pieces) and partly two square rods. The loose part can be made with a router.
Skogsdaniel: Hello! I am currently in the process of renovating a canopy that will eventually be enclosed with glass. I would like to add a thin layer of insulation to the roof to prevent heat loss on cool evenings. However, I'm uncertain if this is appropriate and what material would be best. About half of the conservatory is under a balcony supported by a glulam beam (to the left in the picture). If I
Lejonhonan: [citat] Thank you Planja! How far apart should the screws be that hold the fascia board sheet in place? Should the fascia board sheet lie flat or be angled slightly so that rain doesn't go into the wooden fascia board?
_fredd_: [citat] Yes, but isn't it the trossbottenskiva that acts as the wind barrier in this case?
tholmberg: [citat] Short answer, but did it apply to both questions? You gain nothing in isolation at all by putting an osb+new drywall on the existing one?
ByggahemMicke: [citat] Suspect the same, but worth a shot. Thinking that some action should have been taken by now 😅
Thomas_Blekinge: In Australia and the USA and likely elsewhere, stainless steel mesh is used against termites. Check termimesh and termistop. From a previous project, I have a roll (about 30 cm wide) lying around. PM if interested.
mexitegel: A bit unclear how thick you want them, but there are thicker ones at hornbach. https://www.hornbach.se/p/bamburor-o4-5x200cm/10156242/
R.G.: [citat] Brilliant! Then the decision is made. 🙌🏻
maria01: the important thing is that it can breathe, regular lime mortar is fine, it is fine to paint but one should not use wallpaper or filler on it
Dowser4711: As long as you want the TV directly against the wall, it's molly-plugs you want. (or directly into the studs if they fit in terms of placement) They can handle the weight many times over. You only need the plywood if you're going to have a stand to angle the TV, etc., which means there will be a torque against the wall. But if you want an answer to your original question: 15mm plywood, 13mm
Kurtivan: I have used this https://k-bygg.se/produkt/putsbruk-c-weber-base-135-hand-20kg/7391479734781?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22503644611&gbraid=0AAAAAC14KXpPK-yERxlXAUx7NVqWo2fqP&gclid=Cj0KCQjwxo_CBhDbARIsADWpDH4optNAX0tzVvdmInT2BcnO-EgXZRSrqbzYS13seMTksGyvnZuB48YaAgaGEALw_wcB when I plastered my basement walls which were cast. After mixing, it becomes almost as easy to work with as filler.
Pjosk75: Hello Great that you plan to build the deck yourself. There are many tips to read/watch on various company websites and here on the forum. I’ll attempt to answer some of the questions. More extensive answers will likely come later. Must the deck be attached to the house, or can it advantageously be freestanding? - Freestanding is what is usually recommended. It can even be a disadvantage to
Kattgrind: Thinking of making a staircase with granite blocks and lake stone in the steps?
z_bumbi: I would check if it is available as a spare part. You broke it yourself, so what are you going to return?
Lovensson: [citat] I made it in Blender, a general 3D modeling/rendering program. Nothing related to construction or anything like that at all 👍