Maybe 10 years, concrete against pressure-treated wood is not a good idea!X xLnT said:
The best option is heartwood or juniper posts directly in the ground.
An alternative is to cast hot-dip galvanized brackets so the wooden post doesn't have ground contact.
The same water as in the soil, but if you have gravel and stone, they have a chance to breathe out. If you take posts with different amounts of heartwood, you'll get different rates of decay. Maybe it doesn't matter since both last a long time.X xLnT said:
Members of the Swedish Wood Protection Association provide a 20-year warranty on A-class impregnated timber.
Wildlife fences with wooden posts are driven directly into the ground, and they certainly last longer than 10 years.
Then I wonder why it would be a bad idea to set pressure-treated fence posts in concrete?
Wildlife fences with wooden posts are driven directly into the ground, and they certainly last longer than 10 years.
Then I wonder why it would be a bad idea to set pressure-treated fence posts in concrete?
My experience is that embedding wooden posts, regardless of wood type, is degraded by concrete. I don't know why, but the same post directly in the ground lasts much longer. A few years ago, I cleared barbed wire and posts in the forest and around farmland at an abandoned house. The barbed wire could be pulled up from the ground with the forestry crane, and it was clear that the oak posts were in the best condition despite 30-50 years in the ground.Pjosk75 said:
We fenced our horse pastures during the first three years of this millennium. Most of the posts have a diameter of 5 cm. Corner and gate posts are thicker. As far as I can recall, not a single post has given way due to rot yet. Standard treated fence posts that every equestrian store carries. Should be NTR A.
Buy those instead of square ones. They are pre-cut and pointed. Just knock/press them down.
We have wet clay soil, and dealing with gravel and sand in pits is completely pointless regarding moisture. However, if stability against lateral loads is needed, base course materials can help. The clay soil becomes like water during the winter months.
In wet clay soil, all posts rot at the ground surface. The part of the post that is below ground is usually completely intact. (I have occasionally pulled up individual posts that have broken when the horses have come into close contact with them.) I also dismantled a wooden paddock fence. Oak posts 10x10 cm. All the posts were half rotten at ground level, but fine below and above. It somewhat resembled beaver-gnawed trunks.
Buy those instead of square ones. They are pre-cut and pointed. Just knock/press them down.
We have wet clay soil, and dealing with gravel and sand in pits is completely pointless regarding moisture. However, if stability against lateral loads is needed, base course materials can help. The clay soil becomes like water during the winter months.
In wet clay soil, all posts rot at the ground surface. The part of the post that is below ground is usually completely intact. (I have occasionally pulled up individual posts that have broken when the horses have come into close contact with them.) I also dismantled a wooden paddock fence. Oak posts 10x10 cm. All the posts were half rotten at ground level, but fine below and above. It somewhat resembled beaver-gnawed trunks.