Building Materials and Construction Technology
a_w: Knock off and cast new. Make sure to water well before casting. It slightly tastes what you use for mortar and depends on how thick you need to cast. But see e.g. Weber EXM 702. Follow the concrete supplier's instructions regarding adhesion and curing. Ensure to get a coarse surface when you chisel away the concrete so that the new concrete adheres. Fun project!
Gramphos: Does anyone have any experience or thoughts on recessing the ceiling track for a sliding door into a ceiling? We have a low ceiling height (2.30 m) on the ground floor and have built a wardrobe with low Pax (201 cm) frames, and there's just enough room for 28 cm high Ikea Samla boxes on top. And we would like to keep that option even after we've put doors on the wardrobe. (And we want the doors
Tjrex: The correct bits are called KA3. Newer pondusar have regular torx though.
HaiAzz: [citat] I bought from dalastång. Ordered online, measured according to instructions and sent a picture of the stairs and it went super smoothly.
stigen: [citat] Hello @MF399! Is it just a 90 x 90 post with a through hole that you're looking for? There is a post in the middle of the picture? Should it be used in the construction? I don't quite understand your question. You probably need to post some more pictures of the parts you plan to use and describe more precisely what the problem is and find out what's under the floor where you plan to
Rickard.lj: Don't complicate it, if you are going to build a storage wall with a door, it doesn't require much more than a simple construction, as in the picture, It will work excellently for the purposes you need,
Anna_H: [citat] That will be resolved when painting the second time. Mixed screws and nails also won't be noticeable after painting, and any unevenness will be much less visible. We have also mixed, for the simple reason that the carpenters used a nail gun, and my husband and I used a screwdriver. Every other one is slightly higher and every other one slightly lower on purpose, so that the backing lath
lindamy: Hello I am planning to build a garage/workshop with the dimensions 8x10m and an interior wall height of 3.5m. Since I intend to use the upper floor for storing some car parts and other items, I will have a HEA beam on one side and a load-bearing wall on the other side, 3m in from each side. My question is whether a 180x180x8000 HEA beam can handle the weight from the upper floor or if I should go
Johan Gunverth: [citat] The world's best for secure fastening in concrete, brick, and other hard mineral materials that are thicker than the length of the plug. The downside with them in plaster is that they hold by expanding radially in the hole. Very little margin for error there.
Henke_K: Supplementary question, what does the wood guide actually mean by "wood facing the plinth foundation"? Is it just the wood that is adjacent to the concrete plinths?
AXS: Would either drill straight through or attach wood with self-drilling screws. If you're going to drill, I recommend building a jig to get all the holes even.
Marcello: [citat] Yes, it seems to be exactly what you’re saying. Decent insulation, yes, but completely useless to try to screw anything into. You can't find the planks with a stud finder either because it doesn't differentiate between the planks and the fiberboards. When it's time to renovate, I'll need to cover the inside with OSB/Plyfa. Thanks for the reply 🙂
Niklaso76: [citat] Thank you! Can the transverse beams that are currently under the roof be moved up to the loft to counteract splaying? Or can wires be used instead of beams?
Henrik Vamos: I am going to tear down a partition wall and am unsure if the roof trusses need to be bridged. The two red lines on the floor plan show the roof trusses that will only be supported by the outer walls now. I am also attaching a drawing I found of the roof trusses' construction. I am considering placing a beam in the attic between the two nearby in blue and anchoring the red ones in these. Thoughts?
Avemo: Difficult to determine the thickness of the image. It was an ugly crack. Has he pulled out a molly plug? A common variant is a plasterboard on top of an OSB board. If that is the case, you can attach things with screws without a plug. Or if it is really heavy, a molly plug also works.
fribygg: If you haven't already bought insulation, I would suggest loose fill; if you already have insulation in sheets, make sure to cut it so it fits in the compartments.
vickan11: Thank you for all the great tips and advice. It warms my heart to see how helpful people can be!
Claes7: Currently building a fireproof wall behind a wood-burning stove. I haven't found really good information on how to wash off mortar residue on indoor bricks. I've tried scrubbing with water mixed with a little vinegar the day after each step, but later used pure 12% vinegar concentrate which worked somewhat. However, the wall seems to get a bit lighter in color from the undiluted vinegar after a
Jonasdasaxelsson: [citat] Hey Nice build. Planning to build something similar. Wondering what pipes you used (and where you bought them), and where you bought the flanges that fit the pipes?
Madeleineks: Yes, that was probably what I was thinking too, thanks for the response!
Mallan1985: We need help, would like to get rid of the beam and pole that are in a very awkward position as we want an open floor plan kitchen/living room. We are considering this since it doesn't seem to be the entire joist but they are staggered. Can we then put a new one next to it? A full length would be about 5m wall to wall, and screw and glue it to the existing joists? So we place two new 5-meter
BirgitS: The dimension of the beams says nothing. Small dimensions are sufficient for small loads and slightly larger loads if they are close together. I believe there are load-bearing beams among the red ones.
Linnea Lundh: [citat] It seems to be the case! I googled it and pondered a bit, so now I've managed to remove the first one at least. Thanks! 😁
Turbopumpen: Hi in the heat, Going to replace a shabby balcony box (see pictures). Planning to replace the wooden pieces with galvanized edging "wide model." Pop rivet to a new balcony box and screw into the window sill with sheet metal screws. Good or *nus?! I'm a bit worried about the weight, soil plus water weighs quite a bit 😬 Grateful for any feedback!
MBR210: [citat] You're right! According to the seller, a previous owner removed a load-bearing wall (marked in red) and made a structural change. In picture number 2, you can see what it looks like today, after the wall to the wardrobe was removed – that space is now a dining room. Considering this, we wonder if it is reasonable to believe that the wall between the kitchen and living room is not
Oldboy: [citat] The brick facade is a Potemkin facade. It's a typical wooden frame behind + MU. This means that if moisture gets behind the brick, the wooden frame can rot, and all materials can become moldy. So, regardless of the facade, you don't want moisture getting behind it. For me, having a wooden facade painted with slamfärg, it's immediately evident after each rain where/on which sides of the
Oldboy: It looks good. It will be nice when it's finished. :)
Nygge72: Hi, does anyone have an idea about the time it would take for 2 carpenters to erect/secure roof trusses on a house (100sqm), and to install the raw plywood boards on it? Best regards, Per