Hello!
We're going to have a backsplash in our kitchen made of composite that will go up about 25 cm above the countertop. They'll be measuring for it in about a week. Right now, there's a drywall there. Now I'm wondering if the wall should be spackled even where the backsplash will sit or not? Does anyone know?
We're going to have a backsplash in our kitchen made of composite that will go up about 25 cm above the countertop. They'll be measuring for it in about a week. Right now, there's a drywall there. Now I'm wondering if the wall should be spackled even where the backsplash will sit or not? Does anyone know?
Hello! How did you do it here?V VOEKA said:Hello!
We are going to have a splashback in our kitchen made of composite that will go up about 25cm above the countertop. They are going to measure it in about a week. Right now, there is a plasterboard there. Now I wonder if the wall should be filled where the splashback is going to be or not? Does anyone know?
Personally, my situation is a bit different than TS as I have a concrete wall. I've removed the old fix reasonably well. It's going to be painted between the splashback and the upper cabinets. However, like TS, I'm wondering if putty works under the splashback or if you need tile adhesive or something similar.Paul-Staffanstorp said:
Paul-Staffanstorp
Renovator
· Skåne
· 8 989 posts
Paul-Staffanstorp
Renovator
- Skåne
- 8,989 posts
Ok, but why not remove all the adhesive down to a smooth surface for the best result.Grussladd said:
Personally, I have a slightly different situation than TS since I have a concrete wall. I've managed to remove the old adhesive fairly well. It will be painted between the backsplash and the upper cabinets. However, I'm also considering, like TS, whether spackel works under the backsplash or if I need tile adhesive or something similar.
There are very nice grinders for this available for rent.
https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threads/renoverings-saneringsfraes-festool-protool-rgp-80-11.324285/
I've considered that! But it still won't be completely smooth - there are some pits and holes. Can one fill it with regular putty in that case?Paul-Staffanstorp said:
Paul-Staffanstorp
Renovator
· Skåne
· 8 989 posts
Paul-Staffanstorp
Renovator
- Skåne
- 8,989 posts
Yes, but pores and other small holes in the concrete won't be visible if you're going to install a backsplash there later... 😱
The point is to have a sufficiently smooth surface to glue the backsplash onto, so small pits and cavities that go inward don't really matter in that case.
Fill them if you want, but as I said, it doesn't really matter since the important thing is to remove what's sticking out.
The point is to have a sufficiently smooth surface to glue the backsplash onto, so small pits and cavities that go inward don't really matter in that case.
Fill them if you want, but as I said, it doesn't really matter since the important thing is to remove what's sticking out.
That's true! But the backsplash only reaches 30 cm up. Above that, it's painted 30 cm. Then there's an overhead cabinet. I want it smooth and nice therePaul-Staffanstorp said:
Yes, but pores and other small holes in the concrete won't be visible if you're going to put a backsplash there later... 😱 The point is to get a sufficiently smooth surface to glue the backsplash to, so small pits and cavities that go inward don't really matter in that case. Fill them if you want, but as I said, it doesn't really matter since the important thing is to remove what's sticking out.
Paul-Staffanstorp
Renovator
· Skåne
· 8 989 posts
Paul-Staffanstorp
Renovator
- Skåne
- 8,989 posts
Sorry, either I'm a bit slow or I'm expressing myself poorly. But my dilemma is that I want it relatively flat under the splash guard and very flat above where I'm going to paint. I initially thought of skim coating everything but I don't know if it will hold for the splash guard which still weighs a bit. Alternatively, using renovation board, but I have no experience with that beforehand.Paul-Staffanstorp said:
How do you mean - I'm with you on getting rid of all the bumps under the board, but are you suggesting that one only putty the part that will be painted?
Paul-Staffanstorp
Renovator
· Skåne
· 8 989 posts
Paul-Staffanstorp
Renovator
- Skåne
- 8,989 posts
Yes, you rout out the adhesive on the entire surface and then spackle and paint the part that will be visible.Grussladd said:
Sorry, either I'm a bit slow in the head or I'm expressing myself poorly. But my dilemma is that I want it reasonably flat under the splash guard and very flat where I'm going to paint. I first thought about skim coating everything but I'm not sure if it will hold for the splash guard, which is quite heavy. Alternatively, use renovation drywall, but I have no previous experience with that.
How do you mean - I'm with you on removing all the bumps under the board, but do you then mean that you only spackle the part that you will paint?
Then the splash guard is glued in place and you can apply a soft sealant on the top edge of this and finish painting the painted part one last time.
Voila 😜🤣
I can confirm that this procedure worked excellently! I couldn't get a milling machine, but as I had an accessory for the hammer drill, I could use it to remove the majority of the fix, then I took the rest off with an old chisel and hammer. I then puttyed the upper part and painted it, while the lower part was left a bit uneven (except for an old box hole that was filled with plaster). It looked great when the splash protection was added. Thanks for the help!Paul-Staffanstorp said:
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