V
Hello!

We're going to have a backsplash in our kitchen made of composite that will go up about 25 cm above the countertop. They'll be measuring for it in about a week. Right now, there's a drywall there. Now I'm wondering if the wall should be spackled even where the backsplash will sit or not? Does anyone know?
 
V VOEKA said:
Hello!

We are going to have a splashback in our kitchen made of composite that will go up about 25cm above the countertop. They are going to measure it in about a week. Right now, there is a plasterboard there. Now I wonder if the wall should be filled where the splashback is going to be or not? Does anyone know?
Hello! How did you do it here?
 
Paul-Staffanstorp
If it's smooth plaster, there's no need to fill joints, etc., unless it's going to be painted over.
 
Paul-Staffanstorp Paul-Staffanstorp said:
If it's smooth plaster, there's no need to fill joints, etc., unless it's going to be painted above.
Personally, my situation is a bit different than TS as I have a concrete wall. I've removed the old fix reasonably well. It's going to be painted between the splashback and the upper cabinets. However, like TS, I'm wondering if putty works under the splashback or if you need tile adhesive or something similar.
 
Paul-Staffanstorp
Grussladd Grussladd said:
Personally, I have a slightly different situation than TS since I have a concrete wall. I've managed to remove the old adhesive fairly well. It will be painted between the backsplash and the upper cabinets. However, I'm also considering, like TS, whether spackel works under the backsplash or if I need tile adhesive or something similar.
Ok, but why not remove all the adhesive down to a smooth surface for the best result. ;)
There are very nice grinders for this available for rent. :)

https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threads/renoverings-saneringsfraes-festool-protool-rgp-80-11.324285/
 
Paul-Staffanstorp Paul-Staffanstorp said:
Ok, but why not remove all the fix down to a smooth surface instead for the best result. ;)
There are great cutters for this available for rent. :)

[link]
I've considered that! But it still won't be completely smooth - there are some pits and holes. Can one fill it with regular putty in that case?
 
Paul-Staffanstorp
Yes, but pores and other small holes in the concrete won't be visible if you're going to install a backsplash there later... 😱
The point is to have a sufficiently smooth surface to glue the backsplash onto, so small pits and cavities that go inward don't really matter in that case.
Fill them if you want, but as I said, it doesn't really matter since the important thing is to remove what's sticking out.
 
Paul-Staffanstorp Paul-Staffanstorp said:
Yes, but pores and other small holes in the concrete won't be visible if you're going to put a backsplash there later... 😱 The point is to get a sufficiently smooth surface to glue the backsplash to, so small pits and cavities that go inward don't really matter in that case. Fill them if you want, but as I said, it doesn't really matter since the important thing is to remove what's sticking out.
That's true! But the backsplash only reaches 30 cm up. Above that, it's painted 30 cm. Then there's an overhead cabinet. I want it smooth and nice there :)
 
Paul-Staffanstorp
Grussladd Grussladd said:
That's true! But the backsplash only goes up 30 cm. Above that, it's painted 30 cm. Then overhead cabinets. I want it smooth and nice there :)
Just like I wrote in my first post #3 ;)
 
Paul-Staffanstorp Paul-Staffanstorp said:
Just as I wrote in my first post #3 ;)
Sorry, either I'm a bit slow or I'm expressing myself poorly. But my dilemma is that I want it relatively flat under the splash guard and very flat above where I'm going to paint. I initially thought of skim coating everything but I don't know if it will hold for the splash guard which still weighs a bit. Alternatively, using renovation board, but I have no experience with that beforehand.

How do you mean - I'm with you on getting rid of all the bumps under the board, but are you suggesting that one only putty the part that will be painted?
 
Paul-Staffanstorp
Grussladd Grussladd said:
Sorry, either I'm a bit slow in the head or I'm expressing myself poorly. But my dilemma is that I want it reasonably flat under the splash guard and very flat where I'm going to paint. I first thought about skim coating everything but I'm not sure if it will hold for the splash guard, which is quite heavy. Alternatively, use renovation drywall, but I have no previous experience with that.

How do you mean - I'm with you on removing all the bumps under the board, but do you then mean that you only spackle the part that you will paint?
Yes, you rout out the adhesive on the entire surface and then spackle and paint the part that will be visible.
Then the splash guard is glued in place and you can apply a soft sealant on the top edge of this and finish painting the painted part one last time.
Voila 😜🤣
 
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Paul-Staffanstorp Paul-Staffanstorp said:
Yes, you mill away the fix on the entire surface and then putty and paint the part that will be visible.
Then the splash protection is glued on, and you can apply a soft joint on the top edge of this and finish painting the painted part one last time.
Voila 😜🤣
I can confirm that this procedure worked excellently! I couldn't get a milling machine, but as I had an accessory for the hammer drill, I could use it to remove the majority of the fix, then I took the rest off with an old chisel and hammer. I then puttyed the upper part and painted it, while the lower part was left a bit uneven (except for an old box hole that was filled with plaster). It looked great when the splash protection was added. Thanks for the help!
 
  • A half-finished kitchen installation with white cabinets and countertops, open cabinet doors, and visible plumbing under the sink area.
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