Now I will finally install the windowsills that will become the bottom of the recess. Everything in the house is crooked, so I've been working with shims at different angles, and now the level says it's good. I was thinking of gluing blocks and then hoping nails will be enough, but I have a few considerations before gluing:

There's a tiny millimeter gap between the board and the frame, which I can almost eliminate if I press it in. Should I try to glue it pressed in, i.e., glue - press - nail, or is it pointless/bad since it will create tension (if the nails even matter for that millimeter)?

Or - should I just glue it as well as I can and then use acrylic sealant?

It will likely be a similar problem with the other boards of the recess, but I plan to screw those in, so it might be a bit easier to "force" them in. However, all the walls bulge slightly in different directions, so I'm putting a lot of hope in being able to solve it with sealant (I have Casco's building acrylic, by the way, is that the same as latex sealant?)

I'm also wondering if I should use construction adhesive or regular wood glue? The blocks are glued panels/masonite board and the board is glued panels.

Thanks in advance!
 
  • A newly installed window sill with a visible gap between the sill and the window frame, showing uneven surfaces and exposed insulation materials.
  • Double windows with a view of green trees and fields, with a new windowsill installed beneath them.
  • Close-up of a white window sill being installed, with a narrow gap between the board and frame, part of a home renovation project.
Just glue, no nails, if all spacers are level, it's possible to put 2 boards from top down towards the board. The trim is not in place and it will hide everything on the sides. My house is the same, but maybe not as crooked. However, the trim differs by a few mm and it was a bit tricky to get it right with measuring and marking + cutting.
 
Thank you! Well, the sides will later be covered with trim, but the edge towards the window is as it is when I've glued, i.e., not 100% flush everywhere.
 
songforkaren songforkaren said:
Thank you! Yes, the sides will eventually be concealed with trim, but the edge towards the window is as it is when I've glued it, i.e., not 100% snug everywhere.
What do you mean not snug, is it against the window frame you're referring to, needs to be adjusted/filed/sanded. But be careful, easy to take off a fraction and then you have a gap. (painter's caulk might be needed) The board seems to extend past as a small lip on the part that's the wall. My boards lie exactly against the window frame.
 
J jonaserik said:
What do you mean not flush? Do you mean against the window frame, then you need to adjust/file/polish. But be careful, it’s easy for a fraction of a millimeter gap to appear. (painter's caulk might be needed) The board looks like it's protruding slightly where it meets the wall. My boards are exactly against the window frame.
Yeah, it's a bit hard to see in the picture, maybe easier to understand here, but since the frame extends along the wall, it was quite a job to get the corners to align so that the board fits tightly against the frame. Now it's almost 100%, but as mentioned, there's about a millimeter gap at one end. I hope most of it will disappear when the side pieces go up, but I expect to need to apply some soft sealant anyway.
 
  • Interior renovation with window frame installation showing close-up detail of gaps and alignment near the frame edges, overlooking a countryside landscape.
  • Close-up of a window frame with a slight gap between the frame and the wall, where the board aligns almost perfectly but needs a sealant.
The final picture from above, the board against the frame, so it's that gap (it may look like more than 1 mm due to shadow but it's just barely enough to fit a fingernail in the largest gap)
 
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