Building Materials and Construction Technology
Isakare: Ceilings are usually constructed with steel studs, lightweight and easy to work with. Hat profile against the ceiling (that resolves your problem) 45 stud, another hat profile. 30+30+45 does indeed become 105 mm. But it was at least 20 years ago that I worked with this, so there are certainly other sizes and solutions.
useless: [citat] That it isn't discovered during the viewing might not be so strange. People usually have plenty to do other than trying to look under the slab on ground. But it's strange if the inspector missed it, isn't it?
MathiasS: I have cast under all my walls.....they are also the only walls in the nearby neighborhoods that are perfectly straight 15 years later......
Marko Koistinen: [citat] Difficult to say generally, there is probably an unreported number, where it's discovered long after when one replaces paneling or so. Damage that can occur hidden is difficult to detect. Condensation damage itself is not entirely uncommon, but the problems are often larger/more severe in roofs or higher up on walls as heat rises and vapor pressure is highest there.
BirgitS: [citat] Buy a long and wide oak trim that you can shape so that it can be recessed between the floors and preferably go slightly on top of the adjacent floors. Similar to this but wider: https://www.kahrs.com/sv-SE/golv/tillbehor/lister/massiv-t-list-58x12-mm
jonaserik: [citat] You'll need to dig about 40-50 cm deep; normally, downpipes are connected/inserted into pipes in the ground, and the ground pipe should be about 5-10 cm above ground level to prevent soil from entering. If you find a pipe, you should be able to remove the downpipe properly, then pour a bucket of water in and see what happens. Does it come out somewhere, or does it (municipal stormwater if
Färdigrenoverad: I will replace the nice deck with a cast staircase. How do you make the connection to the facade? 1. Asphalt paper attached to the facade then the staircase directly against it 2. A 3 cm gap so that the casting mold can fit in between and can also be removed 3. Another way
Mikael_L: I can insert what was sensible from the deleted post here: Here you have the addition method page 24 It is easy to apply and calculate with. Feel free to download the document to your own computer. Pages 24-25 can also be printed out and included as an appendix to the calculation.
Jansson69: The smell from the sill and the asphalt board located in the subfloor framing would smell indoors seems a bit far-fetched, but it cannot be ruled out. However, I suspect it's the sill in the wall that smells and it's closest to the indoor environment.
ElFeo2: [citat] Thanks, maybe I can get it to work with that, but the question is whether a solid tongue-and-groove wood wall counts as a wood-based panel, as I don't really have any modern materials in my house.
Land1: [citat] Does this also apply if the length of the screws can be changed by screwing in/out one end? How do you know you won't damage something on the other side?
Corsair: That's what they look like. Also scattered over the chips on parts of the attic, I saw now. Some stones have green pieces in them. @GoC @Stefan N @plåtrickard
Ironside: Thank you, I have received the sanding instructions from the manufacturer of the table, that's how they do it when they receive tables that need refreshing from customers. "First work with a 180-230 grit paper along the grain of the wood. Then use a 400 grit paper to smooth out the sanding scratches." "When I mentioned sanding with 180-230 grit paper, I also mentioned that you must then sand with
MrJay: Recently ordered tiles from bygghemma/golvpoolen. They are the only retailer in Sweden that had these specific ones I was looking for in stock, and I didn't have time to wait for delivery from abroad if I ordered elsewhere. The day after, I received confirmation and a DHL tracking number with delivery the next day. The delivery went smoothly, well-packaged, and no hassle. A strange thing was that
Intet: How did it go? In the picture, it looks like it was built up afterwards and therefore should be able to be torn down. Have you checked with the neighbors if they have similar ones?
Huddingebo: [citat] Or maybe they simply calculated that the building as a whole would function just fine together with the somewhat flimsy interior walls. A beam fixes the vertical load, but it doesn't do much for wind load effects. So you lose the wall's stabilizing effect regardless. But perhaps a bit more creaking in autumn storms might be tolerable.
SirKnasen: I still don't understand. You don't need to conduct any preliminary investigation at all, right? Contact an electrician, preferably via email and attach the photo, and write that you want this panel replaced with a modern one with circuit breakers and a ground fault circuit interrupter.
Moltipo: Hello, I live in a brick house from 1970, two floors and a basement. The house is heated with direct electric heating, but we are now planning to drill for geothermal heating and install radiators. In the basement, all the outer walls are framed with wooden studs, insulation, plastic sheeting, and masonite/chipboard. The studs seem to be placed directly against the concrete walls. No clear signs
Peter_K: It ended up being 15x2 in aluminum from Hornbach. Fit perfectly.
Jansson69: [citat] You can buy mur och putsbruk B, which can be used for both masonry and plastering. https://www.bauhaus.se/mur-putsbruk-b-20kg-combimix If you want to do it by the book, the wall should be primed with grundningsbruk A, which is applied before the plaster. https://www.bauhaus.se/grundning-a-combimix-20kg Of course, you can choose Finja or Weber if your local dealer carries them instead
jhall: [citat] No problem with wood in the ceiling in the basement. I just tore out ours that had been there for almost a hundred years, bone dry. Just make sure to leave some air against the outer walls so you don't put wood against stone/concrete there.
Nu_igen: Has the same gaps and similar oven but round. The house is supposed to be from 1880 but the oven may have been added later.
Weimik: [citat] I believe a vapor barrier is normally needed to handle moisture from humans. A human emits about 2 liters of water per day, so the moisture from items you store in the shed should be negligible in this context.
Dublin: The obvious solution is to install a dehumidifier (or several). This can go quite a long way if you don't plan to furnish the basement. Then, you need to find out where the moisture is coming from; if it seeps in through the walls, it's difficult to manage without external drainage.