Okay, watched some clips on YouTube and there it didn't spill a damn lot on the floor... I have to refill the basin after a 4cm cut, so the water level is far below minimum and then I fill up to the max.
I don't really experience splashing at least.. However, I'm not up for DIY, so I'll probably go and buy the Ryobi, it seems smarter with a basin.
I don't really experience splashing at least.. However, I'm not up for DIY, so I'll probably go and buy the Ryobi, it seems smarter with a basin.
Isn't it obvious that you use a water-cooled/lubricated saw, grinder, or whatever it may be, outdoors or where a little water spill can't cause damage?
Perhaps, but one should not have to call the fire department to borrow a tanker truck to pour water into the container while cutting to avoid having to stop after 4 cm to refill?
Is it that bad?K KjellTimell said:
I've borrowed and used cheap tile saws, but don't remember needing to refill water during use.
Tip: Bring some water in a bucket, so you won't waste money calling 112.
Got a Herkules tile cutter at Bauhaus 10 years ago. It's on a stand with a water tray. I've done two large bathrooms with stone and tiles. Kitchen, small toilet, and hallway. It's been lent out for full tiling of a basement and several bathroom projects. I think I paid under 1500 for it then. A little rust on it now but it still keeps going.
Thanks for the tips! I have the same problem with my Herkules/Einhall TC that I test drove for the first time today, where it tends to chip the corner when sawing through the last part. The tip to change the cutting fluid was also valuable. Additionally, my experience is that the cut is smoother with the glaze facing up, allowing the blade to meet the backside first, just like with a circular saw (but in reverse). I also tried beveling the edge at 45 degrees. It worked pretty well but requires precision cutting.
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· Västra Götaland
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No, I don't think so.KnockOnWood said:
You want everything as close as possible, because when you're tiling there's some time pressure since the adhesive dries/skins over. Having to run outside (and dress up each time) doesn't work.
But I prepare with plastic on the table where the saw stands, possibly protect the wall behind, etc.
It probably depends on how you plan. You don't have to apply all the adhesive at once, and when you approach a challenging section with cuts, you can even wait to apply the adhesive until after you've made the cuts.
I laid a complicated surface with more cut pieces than whole ones.
I set my centerline with the laser and placed all the whole tiles, then measured all the ones that needed cutting and placed them as a test so they would fit before the fix came out again.
Otherwise, you just need to be quick or cover the space where you have the saw with plastic.
I set my centerline with the laser and placed all the whole tiles, then measured all the ones that needed cutting and placed them as a test so they would fit before the fix came out again.
Otherwise, you just need to be quick or cover the space where you have the saw with plastic.