Drywall on walls of raw boards

[Cissi-84]

Hello,

My partner and I are in the process of renovating our entire house (from 1959) but currently, we are focusing on the bedroom. We've torn down almost everything to the raw boards, both on the walls and the ceiling, and now we're going to drywall the walls with plasterboards, which we plan to screw directly onto the walls. Or do we need to frame the walls first to allow them to breathe?

The house has a wooden facade, and between that and the indoor raw boards, there is some type of insulation and some black paper.

Grateful for all answers and tips.

 

[hempularen]

No, you should be able to screw directly onto the wall.

What you might consider is whether you should put plastic on the wall. That, in that case, has nothing to do with the plaster.

 

[andersmc]

Hello hello you.

You can screw the drywall directly onto the råspont.

 

[Cissi-84]

Thank you for the quick response.

"hemapularen": Why do you think one should put plastic on the wall and what type of plastic should be used?

Another quick question. How tight should one screw? We have 120 gypsum for the walls, is it enough to screw on the edges and a row in the middle or should it be cc30?

 

[hempularen]

In new houses, a vapor-tight plastic is installed. The reason is to prevent moisture and water vapor from migrating out of the warm room, through the wall and into the insulation, where it eventually reaches the cold side and condenses. The dew point is likely to occur somewhere inside the insulation, making it wet, moldy, and less effective at insulating, causing the dew point to shift closer to the warm side, leading to more condensation, and so on.

There is a lot of debate about whether plastic should be used in older houses. There are good arguments for both sides. If plastic is to be used, it must be placed on the warm side of the wall so the moisture is in vapor form where it is stopped.

In your case, it could be argued that if the insulation has managed all these years without being protected by plastic, it seems to be working.

Older insulation materials like sawdust, peat, flax, etc., can tolerate some moisture. Water vapor is absorbed by the fibers, and it's only when the fibers become saturated that water precipitates in the insulation and causes mold. But fiberglass and mineral wool, which are common today (and in the 1950s), do not have this capability and become wet immediately if condensation occurs.

 

[Padda]

In new houses, they use a vapor barrier plastic. The reason is to prevent moisture, water vapor from moving from the warm room, through the wall, and into the insulation, where it eventually reaches the cold side and condenses. The dew point is likely to occur somewhere inside the insulation, making it wet, moldy, and less insulating; the dew point then ends up closer to the warm side, more condensation, and so on.

There's a lot of debate about whether or not to have plastic in older houses. There are good arguments for both views. IF you are to have plastic, it must be on the warm side of the wall so that the moisture is in vapor form where it is blocked.

In your case, one could argue that if the insulation has lasted all these years without being protected by plastic, it seems to be working.

Older insulation materials like sawdust, peat, flax, etc., can somewhat tolerate moisture. The water vapor is absorbed by the fibers; it's only if the fibers become saturated that water precipitates in the insulation and molds. But fiberglass and mineral wool, which are common today (and in the 50s), don't have that capability and get wet directly if condensation forms.

Old response post, but really informative and good!!