How does construction plastic sealant cure?

[Saim]

Hello!
I have installed a pair of in-wall speakers with metal boxes above that protrude slightly above the building foil (vapor barrier), which I have cut out holes in and will attach to the boxes, after which I will shovel back loose-fill insulation (about 40-50cm) on top. I plan to use both belt and braces by first sealing the foil to the boxes and then taping the foil. The sealant I found that seems best is “Essve special sealant/building sealant construction plastic”. What I like particularly about it is that according to the spec, it cures without access to air or moisture, which can be the case in some spots since I will also tape. As I understand it, it is a one-component sealant, and the question then is: What does this sealant react with that makes it cure (but not cure in the cartridge)? Could it be that the small amount of moisture available during application is enough for the sealant to continue curing even after it is enclosed? Should I perhaps spray a hint of water or at least wait 15 minutes before applying tape to ensure the sealant has enough moisture even where I fill with a thick layer before applying the construction plastic tape?

 

[Masthugg]

Doesn't this solve itself excellently by you trying and checking the result the next day?

 

[sinuslinus]

Isn't it much easier to take new plastic and lay it over the pots and tape it to the existing plastic?

 

[McNulty]

Isn't it much easier to take new plastic and lay it over the pots and tape it against the existing plastic?

This way is best.

 

[Saim]

Since the pots stick up about 10-15cm, there will be a lot of wrinkles in the plastic if you were to lay plastic over it; I believe the wrinkles will be harder to seal. You might be able to put an additional layer of plastic on top besides sealing against the pots, but both sealing and taping might be a bit overkill. An alternative I'm considering is first just taping, but then applying sealant along all the edges of the tape. This way, the tape should definitely hold tight and the sealant will have contact with air during curing (which according to the specs shouldn't be necessary though).

 

[Saim]

Doesn't this solve itself excellently by trying and checking the results the next day.

Of course, one can experiment with everything in life, but it is much less efficient than when people share their knowledge and experience. If the tube also reacts/cures very easily and perhaps cures even after sealing, it feels at the very least unnecessary to waste a tube to test.

 

[McNulty]

Since the pottorna stick up about 10-15cm, there will be a lot of wrinkles in the plastic if you were to lay plastic over it; the wrinkles will be harder to seal, I think. You could possibly put a layer of plastic on top in addition to sealing against the pottorna, but both caulking and taping might be a bit of an overkill. An alternative I'm considering is to first just tape, but then smear caulk along all the edges of the tape. That way, the tape should definitely stay sealed and the caulk has contact with air during curing (which shouldn't be needed according to spec though).

You just have to take a sufficiently large piece of plastic and lay it over, so the wrinkles won't be that bad.

 

[hapazard]

From the product sheet:

" Instructions/application: Ambient and material temperature should be 5°C ÷ +30°C. Ensure that the surfaces to be glued are clean and dry and free from grease/oil. Apply the mass with a sealant gun. Ensure the distance between the substrates being glued is at least 2 mm to ensure that the product can dry. "

 

[Saim]

You just need to take a sufficiently large piece of plastic and lay it over, and the wrinkles won't be a big issue.

Yes, the problem is that there are beams quite close, so it's not possible to put a large sheet. I'll probably use a layer of plastic as well to triple-secure it.

Does anyone know how the sealant cures?

 

[Saim]

From the product sheet:

"Instructions/application: Ambient and material temperature should be 5°C ÷ +30°C. Ensure that the surfaces to be bonded are clean, dry, and free of grease/oil. Apply the compound with a sealant gun. Ensure that the distance between the substrates to be bonded is at least 2 mm to ensure the product can dry."

But then it also states that the joint does not require air or moisture to cure.

 

[hapazard]

But then it also says that the joint does not require air or moisture to cure.

Yes, that's probably wrong. But, it also says it doesn't fully cure, so it may be that it sticks and adheres even before it dries.