What rekommenderar do you suggest for timber for new outbuilding doors according to the picture?
I mean should one buy exterior paneling or what?
 
  • Weathered wooden barn doors with visible wear and damage, surrounded by red wooden walls and corrugated metal, adjacent to a grassy area.
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Tallsan Tallsan said:
What rekommenderar you for wood for new outbuilding doors according to the picture? I was thinking of using dimension 145X22 mm as the original is 1" thick and the widths vary a lot.
Use one-inch boards in varying widths if this has worked well before.
 
I mean should I buy exterior cladding or what?
 
All my outbuilding doors have tongue and groove on the outside, it becomes tight due to the groove and "nice" with the V-groove. Black is nice.

Protte

But exterior paneling probably works well too, it will be ventilated if you don't batten the gaps.
 
F fribygg said:
Use one-inch boards in varying widths if this has worked well before
F fribygg said:
Use one-inch boards in varying widths if this has worked well before
I mean, should one buy exterior paneling or what?
 
prototypen prototypen said:
All my outbuilding doors have tongue and groove on the outside, it's tight due to the tongue and "nice" with the V-groove.
Black is nice.

Protte

But outer paneling is probably fine too, it gets ventilated if you don't cover the gaps.
Ok Protte, now I'm thinking of screwing this together. What do you recommend for screws for this? The thickness will be outer paneling 22mm + stud on the inside 45 mm or 50 thick (I have my own measured in inches) so 67mm or 72 mm total thickness.
 
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Tallsan Tallsan said:
What do you recommend for a screw for this?
50 - 60 mm is what I would probably take.
 
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I have used 120 mm råspont.

And each time I have had to adjust with a plane/saw as the gates swell in the autumn/winter bad weather.

So leave room for movement in the wood.

/ATW
 
nikasp
A ArneTW said:
I have used 120 mm råspont.

And every time I have had to adjust with a plane/saw as the gates swell in autumn/winter weather.

So leave room for movement in the wood.

/ATW
Are you kidding :crysmile: The door I made for the outhouse swelled shut hard. Luckily, I was able to knock the door open through the open window. Now, three years later, I made a 135x50 door for the playhouse I've been building for a while. It's stuck as a rock. I'll have to loosen the hinges and try to screw something I can pry with so I can take it off and plane a bit. I thought I was wise from my previous mistake and had a good frame this time.
 
An outbuilding door is probably 1-1.5 meters wide, all mine are made with a 1 inch 5 as "studs" and a 2 inch 5 on the hinge side, and 19 mm tongue and groove, makes it a bit neater.
 
Tallsan Tallsan said:
Ok Protte, I'm now considering assembling this. What screw do you recommend for this? The thickness will be an outer panel of 22mm + a stud on the inside, 45 mm or 50 thick (I have my own in inches), so 67mm or 72mm total thickness.
I use drywall screws for many things, in this case 40 mm

Protte
 
Okay, why have they made this exception in the rule? Wooden beam with carved notch, part of a wooden structure. Viewer questions the purpose of the notch in the beam.
 
So that the diagonal brace does not slip on the horizontal........

Protte
 
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Tallsan Tallsan said:
Ok why have they made this notch in the rule? [image]
To ensure the brace (which prevents the door from sagging) is stable. If it's only nailed to the door boards, the nails can bend under the force.
 
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Ok, then I'll do the same on the new doors!
 
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