Building Materials and Construction Technology
justusandersson: As far as I understand, that description applies to the laundry room.. I don't think you need to spend more work on this. Plattvägg is light concrete.
Hep: [citat] If you build during the wet season, you can put the boards in the garden shed and place a simple dehumidifier there for a couple of weeks. You won't solve all the world's problems, but you'll avoid the worst gaps. Though that advice may not be worth much now, unless building garden sheds has become your new hobby.
KjellTimell: Hello, I'm a bit keen on putting panels on the walls in the stairwell but I'm encountering the issue that the wall protrudes too much. The house is made of lightweight concrete, and it would require a nail batten of 22mm + the panel of 15mm. That almost removes the entire stringer. I'm considering if it's possible to extend the stringer in a good way without it cracking. Ideally, one could cut a
bergquist: Hello, we will soon start with our stairs, as the carpenters don't have many weeks left on our renovation. Therefore, I thought to ask if anyone has a good idea for a stair nose for pine plywood 4 mm?
cpalm: [citat] "Accidentally" drilled into stone? :crysmile: Lesson - never let unknown craftsmen loose near something you care about.
ToRy: Then I would have probably routed a recess on both sides, large enough for the washer to fit in, and deep enough so that the screw head aligns with the surface of the post/beam. I think this gives a neat result that looks professional. Note that it might not be the best solution if the routing is exposed to rain. Carriage bolts look nice, but there will be a problem IF you need to remove the
13th Marine: Visited the local byggmax this weekend and thought I would grab a couple of sheets of (construction) plywood, but refrained when I noted that the sheets were stamped with "Brasil," unclear if they were fully manufactured there or if just the wood raw material was from there. Am I the only one who thinks there should be suppliers closer by? :thinking:
thx1138: I have had to tear down part of the loft in my old barn after rainwater leaked in over a long period, resulting in part of the structure rotting. Now it has been dry for a couple of years with no signs that the damage is growing, so I think it's time to restore the loft. The floor joists are 100x170mm at 1.2m centers, the floor planks are 28mm and 35mm in mixed widths, and it's a little over 3m
Ludde Jakobsson: [citat] Sorry, does it show better here? So, it's the outer wall we're seeing that doesn't have any insulation at my yellow marking. [bild]
kaked08: Opinions on thinking like this? Summary after some forum searching and googling. We are going to enclose an outdoor balcony on an intermediate floor of about 6 sqm. It has two facade walls, so there will be two glass walls. Concrete bottom and metal railings. With the enclosure, the hired company will also add an inner wall of metal against the railing. But they do not do anything else. The plan
jj0nsson: [citat] I ended up making my own molding out of plaster. I cut out the profile in a piece of metal that I dragged along a rail. Reinforced with mesh. Fun project!
gedi: [citat] I did the simple experiment of taking a tuft of glass wool and holding it over a lighter. It doesn't burn (just as the fire classification indicates) but it does deform. So if it gets hot enough, it won't stay sealed. That's reason enough to get the right mineral wool instead.
FcDc: Hello, I have a few questions regarding the furring strips to attach a Huntonit ceiling in place. It's an apartment from the 1940s with a concrete ceiling that I want to refresh. It would also be nice if it dampens sound a bit. I plan to install Huntonit 300x1220 panels across furring strips of 28x70 attached to the concrete ceiling at 60 cm centers using 6x60 expansion nails. How close together
frutty: [citat] Okay, then I'll skip the idea of EPS. Is there anything else to consider besides spacing the joists closer for a strong joisted floor?
Samuel E: Hello. Time for a kitchen renovation, the exhaust duct is built into the chimney in the attic. The range hood is connected at the top to the existing duct. But the exhaust duct is also built as a pillar all the way down to the floor. Hollow, (blows out of the hole when the fan is on) Can I tear down this pillar? Our building plans are not very clear. Murat house from '54-.
Bo arnold: I made such an insulation in 1976 in the basement when I built my house, 5cm styrofoam on an uninsulated slab with floating chipboard flooring on it. I framed the walls with 45/70 studs that were placed on the chipboards and screwed into the wall, 70 mm mineral wool with 12 mm chipboards on top but left an air gap against the floor, ventilated skirting board, no plastic foil on either the floor
justusandersson: What kind of trusses do you have? If they are truss-type (W-trusses) and an unskilled installer has cut off a diagonal member, you may experience a "local" sagging.
Strip: You need a gåt and a sword, so the wall doesn't bend. Or well, you probably need two of each. https://entimmermansdagbok.wordpress.com/2011/10/31/gat/
Cgong: I'm planning to build an attefall house this spring and need to clad the facade with a board that will be painted and then covered with battens. The aesthetics are not important since the surface will not be visible, it just needs to be weather-resistant and paintable. I've looked at Cemberit cement boards, regular construction plywood, and plastic-coated plywood (climate class 3). The main house
Oldboy: Sure, rodents are good at getting in, but that depends on them finding weaknesses. If there are weaknesses, it's only a matter of time before they find and exploit them. They get through old poor-quality concrete slabs that are cracked, have low-quality concrete, and very thin concrete. I have such an example in one of our horse stalls. However, I am completely convinced that a well-cast 10-15 cm
FrippeFlyer: Lifting the thread a bit... I have seen that to achieve EI60, it is indicated in some texts that in a wood construction it can apply: Single gypsum 13mm + frame + single gypsum 13mm. If a fire starts in one property, there are two layers of gypsum before the fire reaches the adjacent property. Or is it my responsibility to ensure that a potential fire on my side does not reach the frame until
Dabib: Hello A question for the gathered expertise. I am planning to make an opening for a new staircase. The idea is to place a glulam beam type 90x315 at the red line and then put a post to support it (red square), which should transfer the load for the floor on the upper level. What I'm wondering is, on the other side of the opening at the blue line, can I just cut at the edge against the wall and
byron v2: A crazy project. My opinion is that tearing down walls only leads to deterioration. There's hysteria in society; everything has to be bright white, and walls must be torn down at any cost. Has it come to the point where concrete walls/basement foundations have to be taken down? Someone needs to say stop. I am, of course, curious about how this ended.
order66: [citat] Fortunately, I found out that a neighbor who is a handyman can help me, and I plan to take the opportunity to learn by being involved!
Järkhöjden: Hi Örnis... it's been a few years now since your post... wondering if you came up with a good solution for the beam? We are building new with a similar solution and want to avoid problems with condensation and cold drafts... all tips are welcome. [bild]
justusandersson: Ridge beam is probably the only reasonable solution. You can experiment a little with the beam dimension. In a sleeping loft, you don't want a lower knee wall height than 700 mm, so it's important to carefully study the beam, any potential overhang, and window design.
Dheri: Laminated wood panels will probably work perfectly, or just regular solid wood.