Building Materials and Construction Technology
MasMats: https://www.byggahus.se/bygga/svenskt-containerhus-inspirerat-grand-designs Create the coolest pergola/roof solution in the neighborhood. Check the link when the byggahus member goes bananas with corten steel and containers. The patio is so cool it stops the clocks. The glulam constructions are just as cool. [bild] The entire build thread with wonderful creative joy:
heathrow: [citat] thanks for the info! Found a dimensions guide at XL bygg which https://www.butik.xlbygg.se/hoor/api/artikel/artikelgruppfil/53be6e169c218/Dimensioneringstabeller%20limtr%C3%A4.pdf under table 8d which gave me 90x225 so it can be a tip for the future.
Belmlu: Thank you very much for the quick responses!
Onnie: Now I have read the entire thread and am curious about how it went. I have an old log cabin from the late 18th century, according to those in the know. In 1940, an extension was built with exterior walls of standing planks, 3". One end of the extension is supposed to get a new floor this summer, as planned. I have a skilled carpenter to assist. The floor is a couple of decimeters above ground at
Ahmada: Problem solved! Thanks to help from Justusandersson. After gaining a lot of new knowledge, I have arrived at a utilization rate of 75% (For C14 - i.e., the weakest possible option) for columns 90x120mm (current column).
andersmc: [citat] Yes, many have tried, and it works just fine. I don't know how it is now, but earlier it was the norm. It's really only when you start hanging heavier things that you notice a difference.
ohlssons: We are going to convert the animal stalls in a barn into a warehouse and need to level the floor. The problem is that the level difference can be up to 200mm in some places. The ceiling height is also low, so we prefer not to increase the floor height more than necessary. The concrete in the current floor is good and stable and also quite thick in some spots, so I see no reason to break it all up
sven.h: In conclusion, I can inform you that 3 beams were complained about, and the supplier approved this, resulting in 3 new beams to be delivered. Exemplary action by the supplier = satisfied customer.
Färdigrenoverad: There are planks with gaps, planning to lay a board on top that covers it but it should be diffusion-open. Additionally, there will be a vapor retarder on top before cellulose wool. What is most suitable, masonite, thin plywood or something else?
Bengt54: [citat] Thank you for the response. It was good to know the reason, and as you wrote, it's just a matter of replacing it. Best regards, Bengt
Interista88: Use corner braces instead of paper tape, they crack if you don't put something.
Färdigrenoverad: I will buy a nail or staple gun for 14mm ceiling panel to shoot at an angle in the tongue. What size is appropriate 15Ga, 16Ga, or staple for example staple width of 5.6 mm and a length of 30 mm.
Prosit: They have been sitting there since spring 2019, I think, and I haven't noticed any birds getting through. Ideally, I would have preferred steel mesh, but then it would have been expensive...
MathiasS: No, it works perfectly. Markduk or some plastic film/age-resistant plastic.
amoreex: A new updated version has recently come out as well. It is adjustable in width, which is really good if you want to use something other than 120 and avoid changing parts. Decking Tool+ https://www.jula.se/article-014539 I would have bought that one if I were building this year instead of the old version :)
Peter2400: [citat] It will probably adhere more than enough. But if you want to be really sure, roll on primer first. https://www.bauhaus.se/probau-primer-1liter
ErAr: Agree, it's different if you're going to have the slab inside the kitchen for example, I think. I'm going to seal it this week/weekend. I've looked at that one too or Stenfix 100+, I've heard it's supposed to be good.
Carl Emilsson: Thanks for the response :) It will have to be droppbleck.. Next question.. We are cladding the house in lockläkt to match the main building. Do we need to install droppbleck here as well on the gable? Or just clad the house in lockläkt panel and then paint carefully? The first image shows the gable, there will be paneling both above and below. The second image shows the type of panel.
Campar: I had "dressed" the steps with decking. Faster than nice! =)
Danne_83: [citat] Yes, it's probably wise to ask about the price. Previously when I've done it, the prices usually ended up in line with Buildmax and similar. Unfortunately, there's a shortage of some materials now, so I don't think they'll do much on the prices at present. When I think about it, it seems smart to go for smaller sheets; I know how tricky it is to haul around a full-width gypsum board.
Ljunkis: [citat] Another steel beam. Which I guess holds the floor joists on the upper floor.
Tovin: [citat] The tongue and groove adds 20 mm. So I assume the space will be 150mm instead of 170mm. Maybe it's still possible to use 170 insulation then?
Gabbe1: In intermediate floors, wood shavings/sawdust is a better choice if the primary goal is to insulate against sound.
Ulf.T: Hello. We are in the process of renovating our living room, which has a fireplace, and we want to spruce up the chimney. We've removed all the old wallpaper that previous owners had put up on it. On one side, we've reached the original plaster, so there I think it's just a matter of plastering with new plaster, and I've understood that lime plaster is preferred since it handles heat better. On
Mazen: https://www.byggmax.se/glespanel-28x70-p08128070?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_d7ci5eb8AIVl9GyCh0fWwDyEAQYASABEgLfp_D_BwE#914=33070
Albireo: Hello! My desire is to create a space under an extension. "Right underneath" there is a support (which must be removed). I plan to replace this support with a glulam beam / HEA beam (or similar). How can this beam be calculated / installed? The wish is for a solution with the lowest possible construction height. The beam must also not be "too heavy." Tried to find a solution on
Ahmada: [citat] I have to agree with that!