Too bad the circumstances can't handle a mullbänk 
I don't dare recommend anything else without seeing it in place - but your idea doesn't sound unreasonable...
Regarding Gudmundsson, the following fits well with my opinion;
http://www.asarp.backas.se/files/876cff4e41c5e80d941f8ad1927660eb-23.html
I don't dare recommend anything else without seeing it in place - but your idea doesn't sound unreasonable...
Regarding Gudmundsson, the following fits well with my opinion;
http://www.asarp.backas.se/files/876cff4e41c5e80d941f8ad1927660eb-23.html
I agree with what is stated in the link. Would not shop at Gysingen except in an emergency.. But he at least has strong opinions and is very dogmatic as the link points out, and if not even he would build a new mullbänk, then I am doubtful about it.
Can one read his skepticism towards mullgrund somewhere, or is it second-hand information? It would be interesting to partake in the thought process against mullgrund.jon_h said:
Now I have read the entire thread and am curious about how it went. I have an old log cabin from the late 18th century, according to those in the know. In 1940, an extension was built with exterior walls of standing planks, 3". One end of the extension is supposed to get a new floor this summer, as planned. I have a skilled carpenter to assist.
The floor is a couple of decimeters above ground at one end and about half a meter more at the other, meaning the surrounding ground slopes. The ground is barren and dry. It is a room of about 2.5*4 m, quite small in other words. The long side connects to the old part, and I assume there is a stone wall under the log wall, which is now an interior wall. It is the coldest room in the house with cold exterior walls, a cold floor, and old single glass windows with inner windows. One of them doesn't even have hinges...
The windows will remain. The floor will be redone. New cladding will be added, the same as before. Some wind protection will be added on the outside before the new cladding is installed - asphaboard, perhaps? There is a possibility to put up some thin insulation on the inside. The carpenter suggests 50 mm polystyrene. But what do we do with the floor? New floorboards are available, thick and wide spruce. The old ones are narrow rough-spun of mediocre quality with masonite and plastic carpet on top. I am considering filling the void under the floor joists with leca, or maybe hasopor? But then what? The carpenter suggests fiber cloth, EPS concrete, and boards on top. We haven't planned for underfloor heating there but have it in other parts of the house. In this room, there is an old water radiator connected to the kitchen stove with self-circulation. The room is to become a library with bookshelves along all the walls. It faces east and south with windows in both directions.
I am grateful for help and opinions. Less cold and less drafty without ground moisture migrating up into the walls is the wish. I'd like it to last another 2-300 years without being unnecessarily expensive.
The floor is a couple of decimeters above ground at one end and about half a meter more at the other, meaning the surrounding ground slopes. The ground is barren and dry. It is a room of about 2.5*4 m, quite small in other words. The long side connects to the old part, and I assume there is a stone wall under the log wall, which is now an interior wall. It is the coldest room in the house with cold exterior walls, a cold floor, and old single glass windows with inner windows. One of them doesn't even have hinges...
The windows will remain. The floor will be redone. New cladding will be added, the same as before. Some wind protection will be added on the outside before the new cladding is installed - asphaboard, perhaps? There is a possibility to put up some thin insulation on the inside. The carpenter suggests 50 mm polystyrene. But what do we do with the floor? New floorboards are available, thick and wide spruce. The old ones are narrow rough-spun of mediocre quality with masonite and plastic carpet on top. I am considering filling the void under the floor joists with leca, or maybe hasopor? But then what? The carpenter suggests fiber cloth, EPS concrete, and boards on top. We haven't planned for underfloor heating there but have it in other parts of the house. In this room, there is an old water radiator connected to the kitchen stove with self-circulation. The room is to become a library with bookshelves along all the walls. It faces east and south with windows in both directions.
I am grateful for help and opinions. Less cold and less drafty without ground moisture migrating up into the walls is the wish. I'd like it to last another 2-300 years without being unnecessarily expensive.