T
I'm going to start building a storage shed that I will insulate.

The shed will stand on beams, 45x170, which are placed on pillars.

I'm considering the best/easiest way to insulate the floor.
I've seen various suggestions where people use chicken wire and windproof paper underneath to support the insulation. I've also seen some use decking boards underneath as a floor beneath the beams to lay the insulation on.

How would you keep the insulation in place in the floor?
 
Asphalt board or raw plank are two proven methods.
 
T
Tongue and groove panels were a good idea. The floor joists are 45x170. I was thinking of using 170 insulation in the floor. But the tongue and groove panels add a few centimeters. Can I still use 170 insulation or is it better to go down to 145 to make it a bit airier?
 
Rickard.
Are we talking about the subfloor (sometimes called trossbotten)? It should be airtight and rodent-proof. The insulation is placed directly on it and then the floor.
 
The easiest way is to screw/nail a 22x95 pressure-treated decking under the floor joists. Then lay in a subfloor board. Byggmax has 2 variants, an oil-hardened masonite (80:-) and a fiber cement-based one (90:-). I would choose the cement-based one. Mice generally don't like cement ;-) Then use the 170 insulation.
 
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T
Thank you for your responses. However, I had a timber order in progress and managed to order råspontsluckor before I saw the rest of the suggestions. But it will probably be fine anyway.

The question is whether I can still go with 170 insulation or if I should settle for 145?
 
Rickard.
If you can fit 170 without compressing it ridiculously much, go for it, you don't want any gaps anywhere in the joist.
 
T
Rickard. Rickard.ag said:
If you can fit 170 without compressing it ridiculously much, go for it; you don't want air anywhere in the joist layer.
The tongue and groove adds 20 mm. So
I assume the space will be 150mm instead of 170mm. Maybe it's still possible to use 170 insulation then?
 
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