Building Materials and Construction Technology
mani33: At the back of the garage, there is a storage room that is insulated and was used as a bedroom by previous owners, but there is no door from the house. The plan now is to integrate this room with the rest of the house by creating an interior door. The house was built in 1989 in modules, so in the wall leading to the storage room, it is like a complete exterior wall plus they have framed a wall
Talexanderommy: Bought a house from 56 and opened up a bit in the wall at an outlet. What kind of insulation is this? The material is very compact. It's a wooden house with paneling, paper, framework, raw board, and tretex.
pangelovski: It turned out nice in the end. I can see if I find some good pictures that I can upload. It was difficult to achieve a good slope since the slabs should be 3cm but we noticed that it varied. So far, we haven't had problems with water damage, though we do have a small collection of water in certain spots.
Stugmannen: [citat] Thanks for the reply! I will be tearing down all the facade in the near future, so that junk will be gone. When I completely renovated the guest house, the asfa board smelled like vomit, so it was good to get rid of it. Have you managed to solve all your smell problems after all these years?
Markus P: Or maybe like this, with some kind of block to end against. You could chamfer or carve something fun on it if you're creative. Though I'm not sure I've understood you correctly...
Eklundh: [citat] Thank you for the responses. I would like to insulate, but I was a bit uncertain if I could. Regular isover insulation or something special? It can't absorb moisture from the brick/air gap? Good, then I can proceed tomorrow.
Permis: I shall in due course cast a base for a simple wrought iron fence. I would like some advice and tips on this, as well as some ideas on how to light them with tasteful and simple LED lighting.
Zybbe85: Unfortunately, my knowledge is very limited regarding that, and the only thing I find in the drawings/documents is that it is a single-family house that is custom-built.
dd88: Planning to install a trellis in a pergola and due to the positioning, it will be difficult to access once the construction is complete, so maintenance-free and minimal risk of warping is the goal. I want slightly thicker material, so I'm looking for a composite material beam equivalent to 45x95 (max 45x110). It must also be smooth on all four sides. Has anyone seen anything similar on the market?
Mallan1973: Tips on an easy way to build a door for our conservatory. It should be like an outhouse door. It can't be too heavy. The width of the opening is 110 cm, height about 180 cm, not necessary to have it closed all the way up. Need help with what timber won't be too heavy and a description. Grateful for tips!
Mattias_Jo1: [citat] Tried it with my Makita electric planer and it worked great. Took a few passes.
Tompafix: Wow, those were a couple of years :D if you have so much to fix, I would have extended the floor all the way out. Then, when there's time and desire, take the plunge saw and open up the hole to make everything visible again.
Sesulo: Might as well take the opportunity to update the case for the sake of it. Had a carpenter and constructor here who said that the inner beam framing is probably too weak and that the glulam beam below definitely is. He suggested reinforcing the beam on one side with flat steel(?) In a coarse dimension that is screw-glued and extended over the left post. Will update when it's in place.
NoOne2k: [citat] Why not go for concrete screws? In any case, fastening capacity for different screws and anchor mass can be found on Essve's website.
ola840: Thanks for the input! I know that the posts don't really serve their true function and are mostly for appearance :) I'll sketch a bit more and see if I might go down a bit in dimension, I will still cover much of the sides with gypsum so the studs can be hidden if desired. Thanks!
zingo: I'm planning to cut a large number of bricks where I want exact and clean cuts. I was thinking that it should be possible to put a diamond cutting blade on my Dewalt miter saw. I find discs with the right diameter (230 mm) but all I find have a center hole of 22.2 mm. On the miter saw, the hole is 30 mm. Are there no discs with a 30 mm center hole? Reduction rings 30 > 22.2 do exist, but the hole
NA_Seal: Hello, I really love the concrete stairs on our newly purchased 1940s house - but can they be saved!? There's a major crack on the "platform." The reinforcement is exposed in several places underneath. Next to the wall, a "gap" has formed, which has led to moisture getting into the foundation. Above the entrance, there's also a balcony, which might complicate things if we need to redo the entire
Ulf Santesson: Hello, I have a retaining wall that was laid a few years ago, I installed a fence using joist hangers that I drilled down. Now the fence needs to be replaced and I am thinking of casting a ledge on top of the stone wall which consists of larger stones. I want to level it with a concrete ledge. Has anyone done something similar? Tips on the minimum depth against the stones or width of the concrete
Anonymiserad 282191: In that case, an oak board has probably been laid to cover a gap between the floors when an existing wider door was replaced, or a new door opening was made.
Cpt-Keso: Time to bump this thread, was in a barn today and thought the same thing. Curious if/how you managed to do it.
ToRy: 3,4&5, can't get any easier! :D
ohcin: Hello! I'm about to sell my apartment and was thinking of fixing these damages before the viewing. Is there any point in trying to do it myself, or should I hire a handyman? I'm a beginner but not completely inept.
sultanen1: Suggestion type 160 mm outdoor screw angled from below for stability/strength, and then a nail angled from above to prevent twisting.
amoreex: [citat] Probably should do that! You can really feel if the screw grabs or if it feels soft :) Like when you're screwing into drywall, you can feel how soft it is
Cruzze: [citat] Exactly. You can lift the plastic now and then and top up if needed. It's not rocket science.
justusandersson: The primary cause of the creaking is that the staircase construction flexes too much. A 90 cm wide tread would need to be 40-50 mm thick on its own to feel solid. Therefore, risers are used to support the treads. The front edge of the tread should be flush against the upper edge of the riser. Then, the bottom edge of the riser should be screwed into the back edge of the next lower tread. The
cederbusch: I have a solid old earth cellar where previous residents built a kind of airlock consisting of 2 thick doors. Built like a "cage" you might say, i.e., not anchored to the stone walls. It's been started to seal between the frame and the stone with some kind of mortar and stones. What should I continue with? Concrete or masonry mortar?