Building Materials and Construction Technology
Digitala_tvillingen: [citat] Sounds good! However, this is on an existing slab that hasn't been calculated for these point loads... A small risk factor there perhaps or what can a normally reinforced edge handle in point load?
mhoglund: Hello, we live in a turn-of-the-century house. It is built with a crawl space foundation, i.e., a stone foundation where beams rest. The house is large, 400m², two stories and a large attic, built entirely of wood. When I checked the beams in preparation for a possible deck construction, some are very brittle. 2-3 cm in, they are crumbly, then they become more solid. I have crawled in the
Ironside: Aha, then we'll do that, was thinking more if I got the wrong threshold. Thanks!
Lyftkran: [citat] Secret door... Yes, but that was kind of my basic idea. To build a box on the left part of the wall that covers everything but can be opened. But still like a wall made of material that can support a few kilos. I don't need to be as secretive as hidden catches under wallpaper. It's okay if it's noticeable that it's an openable box.
bossespecial: Not to forget in this context is that IPE-profiles are very prone to tipping which significantly reduces the capacity. What is it that needs to be hung up when there is such a high requirement on deflection?
scorp1on: [citat] That's not much of a truss, in my opinion. What kind of roof do you have, what's the c/c on the trusses, and which snow zone?
kvirre: Hi I once built an interior wall in a concrete house from the 70s. I used metal tracks against the floor and ceiling, as these had a thin, glued insulation strip on them. It absorbed irregularities, dampened sound by sealing between the wall and the ceiling/floor. It also dampened sound from the floor above by, so to speak, isolating the wall construction from the concrete a little. The metal
ingenmansland: I have a hallway that is 120cm and will lower the ceiling with 45x45 studs and short planks. Right in the middle I will place spotlights, so cc 30 means that a stud lands where the spotlights are. Cc 40 would solve this, but is there a risk that it will start to sag then?
Ramnemark: I have always pre-drilled for the drywall screw. If the ceiling doesn't pull with the nail, I shoot another one in the same spot?
surfarn: Have you calculated the roof so that the rafters can handle the dimensional snow load? Hammarband is the horizontal beam at the top of the wall. I don't know what the vertical beam under the hammarband that you sometimes see running along the entire wall is called. But an avväxlingsbalk is called that which allows you to place roof trusses over window openings. Do not remove the braces before
Kallebo: How do you make a hexagonal construction that only has posts stable? That is, no sheet material or steel bands across fit...
Stefan N: Don't understand how it can be Bygghemma's fault either?
villaruckel: [citat] Thanks for the response! I'll just have to check what's easiest to attach. [citat] If the beam had been under the truss, this would definitely have been an option. But now that I have to raise the beam due to ceiling height, it feels difficult to bring down the force in such a wide beam without it being subjected to lateral loading/twisting?
Simmeman: Haven't really reflected over it. Find it hard to believe that it disappears just because you use self-leveling compound and lay tiles on top. Also notice a difference where there is isodrän or gravel underneath.
FredrikR: No reinforcement at all, no cracks. Plastered the outside.
Robiban: yes that doesn't sound unreasonable. didn't even think about the other branch..
Byggaren1974: It was the first time I had ever done any kind of masonry work.
Boan: [citat] yes, but then it becomes an extreme investment. Simplified, we would in that case build with double roofs... Galvat sheet metal roof? Or the lightest concrete tiles?
chgr: Hello! We have a basement wall made of plastered lecablocks. The house was built in the mid-70s. One of the rooms is to be renovated, and the existing plaster is partially damaged near the slab, likely due to moisture. In a couple of spots, it's deep enough to glimpse the lecablock itself. We cannot drain this part of the house, so there will continue to be some moisture. I'm considering
Galsjo411: The original house is from the 40s, remodeled in the 70s, with a major renovation in the late 80s. Uncertain when this section was made, but considering it was a type of rockwool that resembled ground insulation, it's probably been a long time. I've been given the same tip but I'm not sure this material was used; it's strange in any case, it doesn't smell and turns into powder when touched.
JonasAd: Hello! Our house has a "fence" in some form of concrete with posts and pillars (see pictures). We believe it is cast with some form of rendering on (?). Probably made sometime in the 60s. The fence has now started to deteriorate in several places and we would like to renovate it. My question is, who should we appropriately contact for this? What is this expertise called? Is it a mason or what?
Allmänobildad: Optional molding, compass for drawing the contours, jigsaw for cutting in the molding
jingang li: Hello, If I want to excavate the basement approximately 50 cm, do I need to apply for a building permit? It's a villa. And to excavate, does it mean that my basement wall extends 50 cm at the bottom? Since the basement floor is excavated, all pipes should be reinstalled, is that correct? Thanks in advance! Rgds, Jingang Li
ColonelKurtz: [citat] Thanks for the reply! So it doesn't even need to be chimney brick? So brick, then a layer of firebrick, and top with refractory mortar. Correct?
huggan: The best is a through bolt with a nut.
Emst: [citat] Okay, yes, we'll have to get someone who knows more than us. Thank you for your response and your time!
Skyflakes: [citat] The water that flows down from the ridge tiles is stopped by a sealing strip against the next tile, directing the water towards the regular tiles. This should also apply to the last ridge tile.