Building Materials and Construction Technology
runnemo: [citat] Yes, that's what I meant. I kept the blocks until I screwed the posts in place. Thanks for the tips, turned out great. As straight as it could be with some slightly twisted beams ;)
Violina: [citat] So something has been learned from slavishly reading your posts here on the forum :love:
matgre: [citat] Great! Then demolition starts tomorrow, big thanks for the help!
Krille-72: [citat] If you space 30 cc and use 15 mm wet room plywood, it will hold for a cabinet. Unless it's a real piece you're planning. Then you should reinforce with studs behind. Otherwise, 15 mm plywood is considered one big reinforcement.
Huddingebo: Laminate flooring feels much colder to walk on than parquet and wooden floors.
Oestergaard: Okay then, let it be 11.65kn at the front and then 5.825kn in the middle, I think!
alebo611: [citat] About 1 m above ground, partially supported by a rock. 3x5 m in size.
HammarClark: Sure, it might work with 25x36 as battens, but to save a few bucks, I wouldn't do it! Besides, it's awkward to walk on the roof and be afraid of breaking the battens while building. www.traguiden.se/konstruktion/konstruktionsexempel/tak/underlag-av-trapanel/tak-med-tegelpannor/laktning/ 25x48 is recommended according to träguiden, which knows what's best. On the roofs I've built, we have often
Zimmermann75: Currently tearing out the rec room from... pretty much everything. I will be installing a mechanically ventilated floor from Nivell as the "foundation" in the new rec room. However, I am concerned about this brick wall. Anticimex suggests (after speaking with them over the phone) that it can remain as is, allowing the underlying foundation to breathe well through it. The appearance of salt
bygges: I'm reinforcing walls in a house with weak standing 45 studs in the interior walls. The walls I've done myself have been soundproofed with stone wool and then fitted with fiber gypsum boards horizontally (studs cc 60 and fiber gypsum is available in widths of up to 90 cm to buy, so it's convenient to lay 90+90+60 = 240 cm). Heavy and somewhat cumbersome to work with, but these walls become much
Grillen: I'm going to plaster a wall in the basement and have bought metal screed rails that I place at 1-1.5m intervals. When I watch Weber's video on how to do it with their plaster, they don't say whether to remove the screed rails as you do with regular plaster. For those of you who use or have used these, do they stay in place or do you remove them? The plan is to add tiles to the wall in the future,
Lasse712: I have a similar project. About 40 square meters. Initially, I thought of laying with fix. Then with foot supports. But I only have 5 cm height to play with over 4 meters where I want a slope. You can lay granite klicker on foot supports. Now I'm considering just laying them loosely directly on the existing cast slabs. Maybe something softer a couple of mm in between. Today it's basically
SimonZ: [citat] I will cut it, but there's room underneath, so I can definitely cut it and make space for two nuts. Great tip!
witten: [citat] The horizontal one is called hammarband. The vertical one is called standing hammarband, it transfers loads from the roof over doors and windows.
Johan456: So regardless, you need to drill deeper. There can be plank walls inside or brick. Try just screwing a screw straight in, if it pulls it is a plank wall, if it stops it's brick.
Rickard.: Normally, one doesn't "renovate" roofing felt anymore. Since the 1950s, only asphalt (bitumen) felt has been used, and there is no way to replace what disappears from it. I've never heard of anyone painting it for aesthetic reasons, and what some manufacturers claim about being able to paint it as protection/maintenance doesn't hold up to their promises and usually provides little effect per
Digitala_tvillingen: [citat] Sounds good! However, this is on an existing slab that hasn't been calculated for these point loads... A small risk factor there perhaps or what can a normally reinforced edge handle in point load?
mhoglund: Hello, we live in a turn-of-the-century house. It is built with a crawl space foundation, i.e., a stone foundation where beams rest. The house is large, 400m², two stories and a large attic, built entirely of wood. When I checked the beams in preparation for a possible deck construction, some are very brittle. 2-3 cm in, they are crumbly, then they become more solid. I have crawled in the
Ironside: Aha, then we'll do that, was thinking more if I got the wrong threshold. Thanks!
Lyftkran: [citat] Secret door... Yes, but that was kind of my basic idea. To build a box on the left part of the wall that covers everything but can be opened. But still like a wall made of material that can support a few kilos. I don't need to be as secretive as hidden catches under wallpaper. It's okay if it's noticeable that it's an openable box.
bossespecial: Not to forget in this context is that IPE-profiles are very prone to tipping which significantly reduces the capacity. What is it that needs to be hung up when there is such a high requirement on deflection?
scorp1on: [citat] That's not much of a truss, in my opinion. What kind of roof do you have, what's the c/c on the trusses, and which snow zone?
kvirre: Hi I once built an interior wall in a concrete house from the 70s. I used metal tracks against the floor and ceiling, as these had a thin, glued insulation strip on them. It absorbed irregularities, dampened sound by sealing between the wall and the ceiling/floor. It also dampened sound from the floor above by, so to speak, isolating the wall construction from the concrete a little. The metal
ingenmansland: I have a hallway that is 120cm and will lower the ceiling with 45x45 studs and short planks. Right in the middle I will place spotlights, so cc 30 means that a stud lands where the spotlights are. Cc 40 would solve this, but is there a risk that it will start to sag then?
