Read about a member who made their own glulam beams and got inspired. Does anyone know if impregnated wood is harder to glue? And which glue should be used? It will be support beams for a "friggebod" (small cabin).
The problem with pressure-treated wood is that it is often very moist, so it needs to dry out first.
A water-resistant adhesive like Bostik 800 is probably suitable; this is also good at accommodating irregularities because it expands slightly.
Why pressure-treated? Is it going to be in the ground?
A water-resistant adhesive like Bostik 800 is probably suitable; this is also good at accommodating irregularities because it expands slightly.
Why pressure-treated? Is it going to be in the ground?
It might happen that the timber is damp, as I've seen construction companies store it outdoors.
At the location where the friggebod is supposed to stand, there is a crack in the rock where water collects. It's no help that it is sealed against surface water because the water comes through cracks. I will have a pump at the bottom that handles most of it (a tip from a relative who built on a field near Hjälmaren and had moisture under the house, he dug a pit and placed a pump down).
The glue: I bought a variant from Casco that has the same properties as the Bostik glue you mentioned. I haven't bought the timber yet.
At the location where the friggebod is supposed to stand, there is a crack in the rock where water collects. It's no help that it is sealed against surface water because the water comes through cracks. I will have a pump at the bottom that handles most of it (a tip from a relative who built on a field near Hjälmaren and had moisture under the house, he dug a pit and placed a pump down).
The glue: I bought a variant from Casco that has the same properties as the Bostik glue you mentioned. I haven't bought the timber yet.
What are the spans being discussed? It sounds strange that you would need glulam for a "friggebod"?
Pressure-treated is exactly what it sounds like, wood that has been placed in a pressure chamber and filled with preservative liquid. If you buy wood this year, expect it to be dry by next year. It should work with some form of polyurethane adhesive. Additionally, it needs a small addition of moisture to cure. But I wouldn't expect the same strength as a real glulam beam.
Pressure-treated is exactly what it sounds like, wood that has been placed in a pressure chamber and filled with preservative liquid. If you buy wood this year, expect it to be dry by next year. It should work with some form of polyurethane adhesive. Additionally, it needs a small addition of moisture to cure. But I wouldn't expect the same strength as a real glulam beam.
The firm that made the kit for the shed suggests (or suggested, as they have gone bankrupt) 100x100 mm treated wood, 4800 mm long with five posts = 1200 mm span. I couldn't find that when I browsed through the construction companies, and now the plan is to buy decking boards 22x95 mm, five stacked on top of each other = 110x95.
(Two of the "posts", the outermost ones, are not posts but concrete walls with finjablock on top. But that doesn't change the span.)
Someone might think I’m overdoing it, I don’t know. When we amateurs build and can't calculate, it's often too much. And sometimes way too little.
To make a long story longer: the shed is the start of an extension to the summer cottage, which decided the placement. I'm placing the shed one meter from the existing cottage and filling the space with closets. That way, I'll get a bedroom that's soundproofed from the rest of the cottage. We have slightly different morning routines in the family...
(Two of the "posts", the outermost ones, are not posts but concrete walls with finjablock on top. But that doesn't change the span.)
Someone might think I’m overdoing it, I don’t know. When we amateurs build and can't calculate, it's often too much. And sometimes way too little.
To make a long story longer: the shed is the start of an extension to the summer cottage, which decided the placement. I'm placing the shed one meter from the existing cottage and filling the space with closets. That way, I'll get a bedroom that's soundproofed from the rest of the cottage. We have slightly different morning routines in the family...
N NoOne2k said:
I wonder further:
Now I have received objections and information.
1. It takes a year to dry treated wood.
2. It should work with some form of polyurethane glue.
3. It needs moisture to cure.
"Should work" in a year?
In that case, I'm on the wrong track. This was supposed to be done yesterday.
Now I have received objections and information.
1. It takes a year to dry treated wood.
2. It should work with some form of polyurethane glue.
3. It needs moisture to cure.
"Should work" in a year?
In that case, I'm on the wrong track. This was supposed to be done yesterday.
I think you're on the wrong track. On svenskt Trä there are good guides for sizing, unfortunately, I can't provide them for you right now, but surf on to www.svenskttra.se/ where there are good sizing guides.L Lasse Morin said:
But to take the short version, the bending resistance is calculated as bxh^3.
100x100^3= 100,000,000mm^3. 45x145^3=137,188,125mm^3. If you want to keep the building height down, you can screw together 2 pieces of 45x120 which gives a bending resistance of 155,520,000mm^3.
Thank you, NoOne2k!
Great, we agree on the track. I'll put together two 45 mm (x whatever the construction company has). They should be on the edge, right?
If no one objects, it will be pressure-treated. Is there any point in adding glue between, on newly bought treated?
Svenskt Trä - I was there for another dimensioning question recently. You probably need to be at least half an engineer to handle their tables (that time I chose 45x220, the most impressive available).
But never mind my problems with the tables, your suggestions are enough!
Great, we agree on the track. I'll put together two 45 mm (x whatever the construction company has). They should be on the edge, right?
If no one objects, it will be pressure-treated. Is there any point in adding glue between, on newly bought treated?
Svenskt Trä - I was there for another dimensioning question recently. You probably need to be at least half an engineer to handle their tables (that time I chose 45x220, the most impressive available).
But never mind my problems with the tables, your suggestions are enough!
I ended up far from the starting point. Now it's double 45x145 (with polyurethane glue in between, can't hurt).
The construction will be higher than in the drawing...
The construction will be higher than in the drawing...