Building Materials and Construction Technology
wasseng: [citat] Yes, exactly, they should bear the load. If I interpret the drawing correctly, it's 3790mm between the two load-bearing pillars in the section, so I assume that = free span. If I check the wood guide, then perhaps a 90x180 laminated beam might be enough... but this is really not my expertise...
Stefan1972: However, is the channel used for anything else? If no flue gases pass through, there's no need to exaggerate.
Jontha: Do you think I can cut away from the 70-rule at every point where an old horizontal 35x35-rule intersects the new 70-rule when I set cc30? The alternative is to take them out and saw them so the 70-rule remains intact. Now that I ask, option 2 feels the least complicated anyway.
HEA260: [citat] Even in cases where the front and sides to the right and left completely lack walls? I think that the resulting force from the wind load is very small against 95x95 posts without any wall. In this case, the screws will be dimensioned correctly (I can do that). I know that it requires more experience than I have; I'm about to graduate myself. But all the jobs I've applied for, I've
Cerb: [citat] Possibly a thin layer as insulation, but it was still rare to build the wall out of blåbetong, wasn't it?
hanson#16: After seven sorrows and eight troubles, 40m of sinus sheet from ekonomistål went up yesterday. Delivery in a week, less than half the price compared to the equivalent aluminum sheet, and what held me back, the fact that the sheets are only one meter long, is barely noticeable and made the installation significantly easier. Last but not least, the sheet is stylish and probably the closest you can
Matti_75: Twisted paneling is probably among the ugliest things there is.
ANDERS ROLAAND: I bought a bandsaw at a flea market. Luna LBS 470 and need to replace the blade guide. Where should I turn?
Magnus83: [citat] Yes exactly, that's roughly what the gap is... I'm mostly looking to either buy that the gap t is due to drying or if I need to look for any other reason, visual inspection gives me no clues...
ZeroKnowledge: Never worked with mortar before, going to fill in the joints in an indoor brick wall now and predict it's going to be messy everywhere! Should one clean up directly after finishing the joints or wait an hour/day or something? What do you clean up with? Cloths? When is it somewhat dry? I have a little daughter who would love to mess with plaster mortar.. what is the drying time? Thanks in advance!
Arne999: Now I have plastered the foundation walls with C-bruk from byggmax. The result has been anything but even, even if I learned a bit, I think it varies a lot from time to time. Yesterday, for example, I plastered the last 4x2m section. Mixed about 10 bags, identically mixed and with the same weather conditions. However, I found that some batches "dried up" faster than others. It was almost
useless: [citat] No, the description on K-rauta's website is not accurate. The text applies to 25kg bags, but they sell 20kg bags.
Unilss: On the upper floor of the cottage, the chimney is exposed. At the very top, it isn't filled all the way out to the wall, leaving an inward sloping cavity where cement has been applied against the chimney pipe. It looks somewhat unfinished, and I would somehow like to make the wall even above the last layer of bricks. I am planning to paint the brick wall afterward. How can one achieve a neat
fribygg: [citat] No. I want a frame to be sturdy before I weatherproof it, then strap braces are the simplest and cheapest solution.
KnockOnWood: Quite similar to this: [bild] https://www.google.com/search?q=innerpanel&client=firefox-b-d&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjrsaqatrjxAhVsoosKHaEeCvAQ_AUoAXoECAEQBA&biw=1118&bih=820#imgrc=lmrhn9iLqzEFTM
Husfibblaren: Hi, I am planning to build a willow fence and thought to start by getting the fence posts in place. Regular impregnated fence posts. I read somewhere that they need to go down to frost-free depth, which is 1.2m (!). It sounds completely unreasonable to dig a narrow deep hole that is 120cm. Is this correct? How deep do they need to go? Is the best option a manual earth auger or to rent a machine?
Skruvar: Hello. I've made a beginner's mistake regarding the cc measurement. The idea is to drywall this side, but of course, I measured the cc at the lowest stud, should have measured from the floor. The cc measurement is 60cm and it's 2.40 to the ceiling. Is it possible to lift the drywall to the cc on the lowest stud? I'm going to add flooring later. Second question, is it possible to have the drywall
Emma saeed: Hello I want to buy a tile saw wet machine in Sweden, which can cut bottles, but I couldn't find any. I could find it in the USA but it's difficult to buy it online. MK-101 is the best or the 10 professional Chicago electric tile saw, but I couldn't find any machine with the same standard, any advice or help? Thanks
psau: They refer to Weber's product sheet at the link you mention, and Weber has these blocks. To be able to mortar without butt joints, you need blocks that interlock with each other; otherwise, you have to mortar with other products. The blocks you have purchased are at least wrong for anything other than using as end blocks.
justusandersson: It is guaranteed not to be load-bearing.
justusandersson: You cannot build like that. An acceptable deflection of 1/300 of the span means 19 mm. You are too close to the breaking point. The snow loads are calculated based on a 50-year interval. The deflection for a beam with a uniformly distributed load follows the formula 5*q*L^4/384*E*I. This means that for a given beam type and beam dimension, the deflection increases exponentially with the span.
Ecke1: [citat] Thanks for the tip. They seem a bit too narrow though. I spoke with a metal supplier and they can cut the desired size directly from a sheet, which seems to be the easiest.