Building Materials and Construction Technology
MrJay: Stenlim PU, it expands though, so don't use too much. Then you need something to keep the brick in place until it cures; I've been quite successful with just duct tape, but it varies depending on the situation, of course.
justusandersson: I have never encountered a hole puncher who can read blueprints, but as a rule, neither can the client. It is an absurd situation. In occasionally overregulated construction Sweden, only formal certification is required to perform energy calculations and to be KA. Not even individual electricians need to have authorization. Or for that matter architects, designers, and a bunch of other super
Kicki Fredriksson: We are going to replace the railing on the balcony. We have a metal floor on the balcony and are wondering how best to attach the railing/fence without affecting the metal.
PluppenPlupp: 56 is the standard for baseboards, but sometimes one might want to go up to 69 after, for example, a floor change if the floor has "sunk" after a renovation (removed old carpet underneath) or there's been a seam after old overpainted wallpaper stuck on the old baseboard. In that case, it can be simple and neat to go up to 69mm to remove the wallpaper seam instead of starting to putty, sand, and
Kjellarnenilsson: The purpose is to "integrate" the jacuzzi in an aesthetically pleasing way, as it is sunk 50 cm from the existing stones. I thought the front should be plastered like the surrounding wall. No load on any block.
Matti_75: You will encounter problems with the air leakage that occurs. Increased energy consumption and issues with moisture damage. It's much worse with plastic that is not airtight than if you had skipped the plastic entirely. Because now the leakage becomes concentrated where the plastic is missing. Open up, redo, and do it right.
anthorne: [citat] Unfortunately, we haven't done anything, but focused on other projects for now.. but I'm still interested in a reasonable solution to the problem if someone has one.
OveE: [citat] Good suggestion, I will look further into this, and thanks for the help. Happy Midsummer to everyone on the blog.
Krille-72: [citat] What? You're not done yet? :crysmile: Good luck and take it easy. Mix a little the first time and experiment. It's going to be fine.
justusandersson: The best thing is if you can pinpoint how the door opening aligns with the trusses. This results in completely different outcomes regarding the beam's dimensioning. With a bit of luck, you may get by with a rather modest structure.
arowe17: Great thread I found! I'm about to head to the hardware store and get some trim nails. I hope there are black or possibly shiny trim nails available? Pre-drill or not? I already have PL400 at home that I will use to glue.
diy1: I have a concrete staircase that I thought of giving a facelift. I looked at facade panels in fiber cement, they are withstand being dug down and seem to be very durable. Has anyone tried to clad a concrete staircase with these? The thickness is perfect, the door will be able to open without any issues and the panels appear to be very non-slip. I'm thinking of gluing them with PL or other
Oldboy: As long as only the brown stripes are painted, it's fine. The Asfaboard is diffusion-open and should not be sealed with paint, as then penetrating moisture may have difficulty drying out. Especially if there is some form of vapor barrier on the inside.
Viktor.J: Hello, I'm about to install paneling on the ceiling. The paneling is a regular facade (small edge) with tongue and groove from Optimera, manufactured by NoviPro (norrlandsträ). They were delivered last week and have since been stacked evenly 95mm off the floor in my garage. Due to the heat, the garage maintains about 18-20 degrees with good ventilation. Now, as I start nailing them up, a large
Derbyboy: [citat] What kind of template is it? the link doesn't work 15 years later :cool::crysmile:
Sharky58: Good to have link: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_screw_drives /Göran
stoffe88: I have a relatively thick wall where I need to fill in a window, about 40-50cm thick, and it will be plastered on both the inside and outside. To align the lecablocks with the plaster, I was thinking of placing foam insulation between them to fill and insulate. Is there any disadvantage with such a construction? There are ready-made leca solutions (which do not fit my dimensions).
ÅkeSun: It is not obvious that the studs are adapted to the current ceiling; there might just as well be wooden paneling inside. The easiest would probably be to just put up the new ceiling tiles directly on the old ones?
Leakimu: [citat] Thank you so much! The conveyor belt is unfortunately not my idea, but was available for rent. But it made everything very easy. I also rented an electric wheelbarrow to be able to get the concrete from the concrete truck. I once heard "work smarter, not harder," and I live by that.
MalZon: [citat] Yep. Just need to place it exactly according to how the beams and ceiling go. Will have to tape where necessary too.
Lasse Morin: I ended up far from the starting point. Now it's double 45x145 (with polyurethane glue in between, can't hurt). The construction will be higher than in the drawing...
justusandersson: The "simplest" is probably to pick up, for example, two tiles and replace them with shorter variants, which then need a new support in some form.
FemTummar: I have a couple of rooms measuring 4x3 m where there is currently drywall on the ceiling. I want to keep the drywall for fire and insulation reasons and mount panel boards on them. The underlying spacing (~ cc 30) naturally doesn't match the width of the boards, and I would prefer to avoid adding furring strips since I'm both behind schedule (the electrician is booked -- if I'm not done with mine
Okarlsson: I agree with the above, of course. If you still want a "how long is a piece of string" answer, I would say 15,000:- per wall + surface layer and 5000 for an electrical outlet per wall. That being said, it can cost 25 or 50 thousand too, but just so you have an idea.
Pear4Life: Insert a small screwdriver and feel :) Big difference in load-bearing capacity on single/double plasterboard...
noone70: I need to get hold of knauf Betokontakt or equivalent to prime the underfloor heating plates so that the self-leveling compound adheres properly to them. Where can I find it south of Stockholm? Bauhaus and hornbach don't have it Bejer is out