We are going to install tongue and groove wood paneling 13x120 in the sloped ceiling on the upper floor of the garage. It is not a large space, so I don't want to lose too much ceiling height. We have loose-fill insulation in the sloped ceiling and a vapor barrier underneath it.

Alternative 1 - wood paneling directly on the rafters

First, I thought I would check if we could install the wood paneling directly on the rafters, which are set at 120 cc. This is the solution I would prefer since it saves space. The questions that come up are:

1. Is it okay to attach ceiling paneling to the rafters with a 120 cc spacing?

2. I will have LED spotlights in the ceiling. How can the boxes for them be attached in that case so that they don't move around? The only thing I can think of is some form of gluing directly to the back of the wood paneling, but will that hold? You wouldn't want them to come loose and fall inside the ceiling.

Alternative 2 - Horizontal battens with vertical wood paneling in the ceiling

This alternative gives me the option to attach the boxes for the lights and only takes about 3 cm from the ceiling height. But then the wood paneling in the sloped ceiling will be vertical. It doesn't feel right aesthetically. I have googled and looked at pictures and so far have only found one that had vertical paneling, and it seemed to be white-painted rough timber or something similar.
Anyone with good experience with vertical paneling?

Alternative 3 - Horizontal battens, vertical battens, and then horizontal wood paneling

This alternative builds 6 cm, so I lose a lot of ceiling height.

Is there any other way to have battens in just one layer and still have horizontal wood paneling?
 
Come up with an alternative solution to alternative 1.

I mount the boxes for led on a board, maybe a small piece sparse, which I fasten to the ceiling panel with the nail gun and the same brad nails that I use to attach the ceiling panel. So I fasten it from underneath. Could it work? In that case, is it okay to attach the panel with 120 cc to the rafters?
 
Here are some pictures of standing snetak. Construction is ongoing.

Construction materials stacked under sloped ceiling during renovation.

In-progress construction of an angled wooden ceiling with windows and boxes stacked on a cabinet.
 
Without wanting to criticize Pelpets roof, I think it looks nicer with the panel along the roof, that is, horizontally.
(In my parents' summer cabin in Tjörn, the panel was like Pelpets, but with a sturdy ridge, the size of a telephone pole, where the roof slopes met)

I have 18x193 mm tongue and groove panel mounted on rafters with c-c 1200 mm spacing in a workshop in the garage building, and it looks alright.
Otherwise, a very nice panel, which is recommended:
Tongue and groove wooden panels, 18x193 mm, installed vertically.

Question: Are cans really necessary for LED spots? They have negligible heat development, right?
 
I will mount them in junction boxes. The highest measured temperature in the ceiling box after a day's operation was 28.4 degrees, so it's far from the 60 degrees which is the limit. But I'd rather not have them directly against the plastic ;)

Do you think a 13x120 panel would work on 120 cc as well? If so, I can use my solution with a nail-pinned junction box.
 
Raginglynx said:
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Do you also think a 13x120 panel would work on 120 cc? If so, I can use my solution with the nail-gunned junction box
I wouldn't hesitate to try it at least. You only need a few panel widths to see if it noticeably sags.

And can't you place the spotlight boxes next to the roof trusses so they are stable?
 
Has anyone tried installing 4019 13x120 panel with end groove at a stud distance of 120 cc?
 
or to have installed tongue and groove outdoor wood paneling 21x120 in the ceiling? Will it look nice? Should I then preferably fasten it with 75mm nails or are 90mm required?
 
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I have set my ceiling with 41mm floor screws, cc60. The reason I chose 41mm was that I did not want to screw through the sparse (28 x 70) and puncture the plastic. Since I am screwing into the tongue, most of the screw goes into the sparse panel.
 
pelpet said:
I set my ceiling with 41mm floor screws, cc60. The reason I chose 41mm was that I didn't want to screw through the slats (28 x 70) and puncture the plastic. As I'm screwing into the tongue, most of the screw goes into the slat panel
We could probably meet halfway. My favorite screw is also available in a length of 42 mm: 14223 3.9-42 :)

But now Raginlynx was going to attach the panel directly to the rafters, skipping the slat panel.
 
In that case, I'll screw directly into the rafters. It might be nice with floor screws because they can be collated, and I have a screwdriver :)

KnockOnWood - You're thinking of double tongue-and-groove paneling, I assume, when you mean to screw invisibly? At first, I thought of single tongue-and-groove, but that's unnecessary if double tongue-and-groove is available since you can't attach it invisibly. Are you thinking of the kind used outdoors? Like this one from byggmax:

https://www.byggmax.se/virke/ytterpanel/21x145-baspanel-p08421145
 
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KnockOnWood - where did you buy your panel? Considering råspont right now.
 
Krilleman
Krilleman Krilleman said:
But unfortunately KoW is not on the forum anymore :confused:
Yes, I am!
But perhaps not as active since Feb. 2021 when we left the build of our life and moved to a condominium apartment.
 
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