Building Materials and Construction Technology
Zannapanna: I live in a condominium, brick building. There are some settlement cracks in the building, which became evident when I skim-coated the walls and the cracks clearly appeared (there was previously 50-layer wallpaper). Now I've scraped off what I filled on the wall and chipped away the settlement cracks to fill them with new mortar. But despite this, it still cracks. Can I seal it when I prime the
Anonymiserad 433451: Polygrip works fine as well... Or an impact wrench... It can knock the screw loose from the crooked thread... if that's the case...
HaBy01: Building a new house (in the Västerbotten mountains) and it turns out that the carpenters didn't install any insect mesh behind the soffit since the insect mesh was delayed. Something to be worried about? Remove the soffit and install it (and nail new boards)? Or should I just let it go?
Voh: Hello! Unfortunately, it ended up with a bunch of other projects instead. Many pleasant evenings have happened, but not around the fireplace that never came to be. 1. I don't know, it's very unclear. I think it depends on how skilled you are at arguing if the question arises. But aside from loopholes, I actually think it's needed. However, I wouldn't have applied. 2. Better to ask than not to ask
Tovin: I'm also contemplating this issue with the air gap on the gable sides. Building an Attefall house. The front and back are not a problem just as TS writes. But what do you do on the short sides/gables? Do you skip the opening at the top?
nero_pelleman: I have an outbuilding with stone tiles on an earth floor where I want to have laminate flooring (instead of or on top). I use it as a woodworking shop, so a stone floor is very impractical (and dark). Is it enough to use a platon membrane on the stone tiles and then laminate flooring directly? Or is it better to lay a plastic mat? Anything else I should consider?
Hannahkansson: Hi, I'm also curious about how things went with your eaves. I'm just about to build a house and need to decide what we're going to do with the eaves right now. :)
patrik-k: It has gone well. Looks like when I put them up.
raveper: It is easily worth 7-8 thousand for real steps. It becomes really good right away.
Fixarfia: On parts of the building of a Skånegård, the stones in the foundation are visible from the outside (as it was originally) while other parts have been covered with plaster or something else (it hasn't been examined yet what the material is). This was probably done in the 60s. It looks fairly intact. Is it good or bad that the stones have been covered from a moisture perspective, or should they
Snickarkirre: Hello! You can indeed add it, but there will be a cavity under the parquet when you remove the metal stair nose strip that you need to shim/fill. But go to a rental company and rent a handheld carpet stripper, and you'll have those last steps done in under an hour. Unless you're already finished ;)
InsidersUnited: To Ts: if you don't have the energy to replace the pappen, you can go over all the nail heads with a bit of roof adhesive or roof sealant on each head. There are a lot, but your roof is small.
Tompafix: The roof trusses should be placed at cc 1200. So you should be able to attach the rule to them. You can probably access the space from the attic if you want to add something more to screw into. You will likely need to route the electricity that way if you don't want to tear down the ceiling.
prototypen: There will be 200 mm of foam plastic and the same amount of new concrete. Today's houses are built on 300 mm of foam plastic.
LukasK: What I would do is open up the plaster(?) around the opening about 20-50 cm and then make sure to make enough attachments from the outer frame to the inner one (especially the upper beam and the lower/sill). If there is a vapor barrier (plastic) there, you need to cut it in such a way that it can be taped together with age-resistant tape when you are finished. Don't forget to put the insulation
Blåsfisk1: Just wanted to update on the subject: Our builders chose, entirely on their own initiative, to replace all the timber that had previously been "perforated" with anchor nails (before I had a chance to point it out...). So I'm completely satisfied with their decision and with the results of their beam construction :-)
Niklaspe: In the process of supporting the load, do you think a 90x225 glulam beam is sufficient to span 2500mm? Or should I go for a 90x270 to be sure? Swedish truss 38 slope, lightweight metal roof without insulation, etc. Chipboard on the upper floor, no significant weights. Snow zone 3. Wondering if anyone else has supported a couple of meters in their house and can share what size glulam beam they
Taren43: When it's for appearance reasons that you're doing it, it should definitely be full lengths, it always looks cheaper to splice, but on the outside of the house it doesn't matter since the main reason for having siding there is to protect the house's structure.
Barriospurer58: Thank you for the answers, I will check the delivery times for a two-inch floor.
Snickarkirre: Are the screws for the ladder through the vangstyckena? If you want to mount them hidden, you can measure the head of them and then go up a few mm in dimension and drill a countersunk hole about a cm or so, and then insert a dowel into the hole with a bit of wood glue after you have driven in the screws.
P-son83: [citat] I won't have access for another month, so my information is a bit fluid... I'm attaching a picture from a mobile video from the showing... It should have high ceilings here. For the wall, since I'm building from the inside... Wind barrier, insulation, plastic, drywall. Installations will be surface-mounted. Possibly plywood inside the drywall, and of course, something needs to be done
Daniel 109: That's not a place where there will be stress. It will hold.
bossespecial: Please take some pictures of the balcony and the parts you are unsure about.
Annaojprag: [citat] I'm in a similar situation now as I'm renovating a kitchen in an apartment. How did it turn out in your case? Did you manage to get the walls reasonably straight by placing drywall directly on the logs?
mexitegel: Try drilling into the stones and not the joint. Regular nylon plug works well.
Markarbetaren: [citat] Is this something new or is it related to the climate zone? I’ve made house foundations since the 80s, in southern Sweden, and seen how development has progressed from uninsulated slabs to Rockwool and today 40cm of foam plastic under the slab. But insulating outside the slab was something new to me. However, I have edge insulated large buildings, where we placed a row of 240cm on the