Building Materials and Construction Technology
JohanVSF: [citat] Ok! Thanks for the quick response! I was thinking of putting a skim coat over the outermost latex paint. Could there be any issues with adhesion then?
Huddingebo: Keep in mind to try hitting the studs only. If you just nail into the drywall, it won't hold well.
Rowah: Alright. Either you go to Ramirent and rent a Hilti BG 150 or put on the full mask and use the angle grinder with a grinding cup. For example https://www.jula.se/catalog/verktyg-och-maskiner/elverktyg-och-maskiner/kapskivor-och-rondeller/sliprondeller/diamantslipskiva-016001/
mvs: ...also worth noting that the steps will be 200mm high. Does anyone have experience with steps that high?
Pgam: [citat] 18mm laminated wood board with brackets, we're planning to store laundry detergent, cleaning supplies, and such things there. Yes, it's not secretly nailed, so the studs can be found; I think it's nailed on some thinner lathe. However, unfortunately, I don't want the shelf right where the stud is.
Idefixx: Discovered that one of the posts for the entrance roof had some rot and started cutting with the Morakniv to see how bad it was, and now I have an ugly hole that I'm not quite sure what to do with. My initial thought is to rout out the entire area and inset a new healthy piece, but I suspect there might be other options. How would you have done it? I also welcome tips on ways to improve the
Nybyggarn: Yes, there will be a damper, and possibly a "rökhylla" I believe it is called, but it might not be necessary, as we will be burning directly under the chimney.
hoffret: Can this work? https://bolist.se/produkt/flytmembran-platon-isola-grund-sv-10kg/?article=7057755301206&gclid=CjwKCAjw55-HBhAHEiwARMCszuXB_5L-KSo45tf2BFzmyJhhy2ckdNk50RqQLmV3q1iqotBBDhGi0hoCNr0QAvD_BwE Should one complement with any remsa?
Trollöra: "To me, it looks like something that was there when the panel was painted. Maybe the center of the log from which the board is cut." Thanks for the feedback! Indeed, that's what I hope for! Even though better material would have been preferable!
ph659266: [citat] Exactly, that's correct, I'm going with the indoor glue. Thank you so much :)
BP 53: We have a polished concrete floor treated with water glass. A few weeks ago, I spilled water while watering a grapevine, creating a stain about 50x30 cm. The stain almost completely dries during the day, but in the morning, there is a damp spot again of the same size. Does anyone have a reasonable explanation for this phenomenon and how I can get rid of the stain??? Börje [bild]
ravve007: We are starting to plaster our 60s house now and will mesh the entire facade with galvanized mesh. Even though it's a brick facade, we want to be on the safe side. I have 2 questions: 1. Corner profiles, are they necessary? Since we are meshing the entire facade, maybe it’s not needed? 2. How do you handle the edge between the brick and the plinth, do you usually plaster everything at the same
Cykelstigar: That's the one I was a bit unsure about myself too! I've been around to most of them now. Realized that it's room-tracking on the screw and not M.. ♀️ Didn't make the situation easier. Concluded that I probably won't find an identical screw but hope to be able to clean the plug from rust fairly well and the same with the screws (they are soaking in Coca Cola overnight now as a first step).
SteffO11: [citat] with that view, no one thinks about the seams :-)
Huddingebo: Previously, tiles and ceramics were placed directly in mortar/concrete. Adhesive didn't exist. I thought that since you have so little height to apply both adhesive and leveling compound on, you could place them directly in the leveling compound. In my grandmother's old bathroom, the tile was directly on the concrete slab. Otherwise, there is a type of combo adhesive that is a combination of
justusandersson: Not if the hole is visible from the inside. However, there might be an avväxlingsbalk at the location where you have drilled. It is normally not needed because it is a gavel, but you can't be completely sure without having seen what it looks like in the attic. No studs like 100 mm holes.
A-Man_08: You see what comes out if you drill a hole, first gypsum then particleboard before you're through.
InsidersUnited: The outermost chair probably doesn't have a W compartment (?) so it will need support...
Marianneanitta: [bild] Hello The house is plastered, the adjacent concrete slab has inadequate slope which results in increased moisture load against the house's facade/foundation with a risk of moisture damage. Does anyone have an idea how to address the slope of the concrete slab? Is it possible, for example, to mill drainage and could the plaster be damaged/cracks, etc.? Grateful for answers // marianne
A-Man_08: Buy good universal plugs, e.g., Fischer. It's possible to use almost any type of plug in brick.
major_tom: need to clarify that I don't mean the entire gap left after the bricks, but the hole on the side of the concrete so all the dirt/fill doesn't run out and the steps settle even more!
pean.wa: I have a house from the fifties with concrete beams and a balcony above a bay window. There is currently metal on that balcony, but now I'm moving the entire exterior wall at the balcony and I'm a bit unsure what to do with the metal. The fact is that the metal is a bit worn and has rust holes. I'm thinking that maybe I should remove the metal and apply another surface layer but what? I'm
Rolle85: Anyone know what the typical dimensions are for the railings in the picture? [bild]
LyckeboPetter: Hello! I have just installed hydronic underfloor heating in plates for floor joists. These plates are large (double 20mm channels) and are unsupported except at the edges on floor joists with 60 cm spacing. Most of the plate just sits directly on the insulation. Before I lay the floor again (wooden floor), I'm wondering if I should put something like felt paper or something between the plates and
FixaBygg0907: [citat] Well, bacteria, etc., are not as dangerous as metals, which accumulate in the body and, in the long run, can disrupt the genome or, for example, cause dementia or a fibrotic lung. Thus, metals can create bigger problems in the long run than "microorganisms," which can be treated away with medicines when they cause an infection.
justusandersson: It is clearly a plank wall with plaster on reed matting on both sides. The planks are usually 2, 2 1/2, or 3 inches thick and 6-8 inches wide. They are tongue-and-groove and joined with a large number of coarse nails that are set at an angle. Plaster + reed matting is usually about 3 cm thick. Sometimes, so-called spräckpanel (splintered paneling) occurs closest to the plank frame. These are