I have renovated a room and now only the moldings are left. The baseboards are easy to make look nice in the corners, just miter saw them at 45 degrees so they fit together.
But how do you make crown moldings look nice in the corners? I bought some styrofoam moldings at Bauhaus, they should be glued in place. They go about 3 cm onto the ceiling and about 3 cm down the wall, so it's not just a matter of placing them in the miter saw and cutting 45 degrees. I didn't manage this. Luckily, I have a meter left of a molding so I can experiment. But maybe someone has a good tip on how to do this easily?
But how do you make crown moldings look nice in the corners? I bought some styrofoam moldings at Bauhaus, they should be glued in place. They go about 3 cm onto the ceiling and about 3 cm down the wall, so it's not just a matter of placing them in the miter saw and cutting 45 degrees. I didn't manage this. Luckily, I have a meter left of a molding so I can experiment. But maybe someone has a good tip on how to do this easily?
Feel free to take a picture that illustrates the problem.
Ceiling moldings in styrofoam? Is it something stucco-inspired, or why is it styrofoam?
You normally miter cut regular coving to 45 degrees in corners... What and how do yours look like? =)
Do yours look like an upside-down L?
Regards,
Thomas
Ceiling moldings in styrofoam? Is it something stucco-inspired, or why is it styrofoam?
You normally miter cut regular coving to 45 degrees in corners... What and how do yours look like? =)
Do yours look like an upside-down L?
Regards,
Thomas
The simplest way is to place the moldings so you see them from the roof's perspective, and then saw; this way, you get the right corners.
There is an insanely good link with illustrations on how to saw all types of moldings..
Let's see who finds it first..
There is an insanely good link with illustrations on how to saw all types of moldings..
Let's see who finds it first..
Yes, I hope so.. they did sell a special mitering tool for these moldings but it cost 190 bucks just for a piece of wood...injonil said:Yes, it is probably possible to miter your ceiling moldings! But you have to miter in two angles simultaneously, both for the ceiling and the wall so to speak... Difficult to explain. Hope someone finds the link
I'm attaching a picture of what the molding looks like approximately... not my moldings but something similar...
Assume it looks like a cove molding, then it's important to think a bit!
Hammarskallen said:
yes, I noticed that.. I planned to put up the moldings so I made a quick trip to the cabin last night... but by 9 I couldn't think anymore so I went home and asked here in the forum instead... but as I said, I have extra moldings to experiment a bit...I think it will be like this:
For the wall corner, you miter by setting the blade non-vertically to 45 degrees.
For the ceiling corner, you miter by angling the blade 45 degrees on the actual board of the saw (i.e., the normal position is to cut straight across at 90 degrees, now you should instead have 45 degrees)...
Both of these angles must be set simultaneously.
The easiest way for sawing is to place the molding upside down compared to how it will be mounted and then the angles must be "reversed."
As I said, not entirely uncomplicated
For the wall corner, you miter by setting the blade non-vertically to 45 degrees.
For the ceiling corner, you miter by angling the blade 45 degrees on the actual board of the saw (i.e., the normal position is to cut straight across at 90 degrees, now you should instead have 45 degrees)...
Both of these angles must be set simultaneously.
The easiest way for sawing is to place the molding upside down compared to how it will be mounted and then the angles must be "reversed."
As I said, not entirely uncomplicated
The trick is not to lay the molding flat in the miter saw but to place it upside down (with the surface that should be towards the ceiling down against the saw table and the one towards the wall against the fence). This way, it is easy to hold securely and only needs to be mitered in one direction, i.e., by swinging the saw, NOT by tilting it. Since the molding is upside down, you should miter in the opposite direction of how it should be when the molding is up.
Many find it difficult to visualize how the molding should be. A good tip is to make a couple of test pieces. Take a short piece of molding, place it upside down on the saw as I described, swing the saw 45 degrees to the left, and cut. Then, mark on the piece which edge was down against the saw table (and thus should be up against the ceiling) and which edge was against the fence (and thus should be against the wall). Then take another piece of molding and do the same, but now swing the saw 45 degrees to the right. When you are about to miter a molding, test with the two pieces which has the correct miter. Place this piece on the saw, so you can see how the real molding should be positioned and cut.
This is one of the most frequently asked questions in this subforum. At the same time, there are several old threads with good and comprehensive explanations. Can't a moderator pick one up and pin it?
Many find it difficult to visualize how the molding should be. A good tip is to make a couple of test pieces. Take a short piece of molding, place it upside down on the saw as I described, swing the saw 45 degrees to the left, and cut. Then, mark on the piece which edge was down against the saw table (and thus should be up against the ceiling) and which edge was against the fence (and thus should be against the wall). Then take another piece of molding and do the same, but now swing the saw 45 degrees to the right. When you are about to miter a molding, test with the two pieces which has the correct miter. Place this piece on the saw, so you can see how the real molding should be positioned and cut.
This is one of the most frequently asked questions in this subforum. At the same time, there are several old threads with good and comprehensive explanations. Can't a moderator pick one up and pin it?
Suspect that this is the link you meant fresve
http://hvilaro.blogspot.com/2008/07/gering-taklist.html
http://hvilaro.blogspot.com/2008/07/gering-taklist.html
I think the easiest way is to simply hold the molding the same way it's supposed to be in the ceiling and just saw with the "correct" miter angle, but I guess it's a matter of personal preference. It's easy though, you don't have to think about turning angles, etc. Saw as it sits.
By the way, I've used polystyrene moldings for my old renovation project, and they're easy to work with, never swell or shrink, and when (not if :=)) you make a mistake, latex caulk works perfectly. It doesn't show either, but you can feel that it's not wood, although my ceiling height makes it not an issue...
By the way, I've used polystyrene moldings for my old renovation project, and they're easy to work with, never swell or shrink, and when (not if :=)) you make a mistake, latex caulk works perfectly. It doesn't show either, but you can feel that it's not wood, although my ceiling height makes it not an issue...
Exactly! It's not more difficult than that... Just think of the saw's rear fence as the "wall" and as mentioned, you turn the saw to 45 degrees. Don't tilt it, as it won't be as precise... then you can always "cope" the crown moldings... but that's a different method.eraakfa said:As already explained, you set the molding in the miter saw exactly as it should be mounted against the ceiling and wall. Then you just cut as usual at 45 degrees. It's not more difficult than that!
Spot on, Farzan!! Your description worked perfectly! Thank you so much! It was hard to see in advance if you were doing it right by following your description above, but once the moldings were in place: BINGO! Thanks again!Farzan said:
That's the downside of turning the molding upside down for sawing... as several then said, it's easier to see if you hold the molding right-side up. But many moldings, such as cove, can be difficult to hold straight and steady in that way, especially in very long lengths.yuphin said: