Building Materials and Construction Technology
fredand44: Yep, but they sit from each side, slightly overlapping. It would have been better with through-going, now it's a bit uncomfortable to swing or try to do push ups.
Mikael_L: Or only a vertical brace in the middle. That's how the roof truss book calculated my trusses for both the small shed and the garage. 2.5 and 4 meters span respectively. In this post, there's a picture where the truss is visible, also a few posts further down and a drawing in post #2. https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threads/snik-garaget.100212/page-6#post-713150
Julla: [citat] Settlements exist, but they are no longer worsening, and the foundation has been reinforced. The house is located on a slope with a concrete foundation and a half basement, also with concrete walls. The foundation is poured in many sections. Under the part of the house where there is no basement: steep sloping rock covered with a thick layer of sand. I certainly don't have a sill with the
Mikael_L: Arrange a 2 cm gap, which you caulk.
Daniel 109: The plastic in the wall on the ground floor should connect to the plastic in the walls on the upper floor.
William91: Hello everyone, I'm in the process of renovating our conservatory and need tips on how to fix the plaster. I'm completely inexperienced regarding plastering, so I gratefully accept any advice on how to proceed. I want to plaster up to the concrete edge. Should I remove the brown beam and then build up with more lecablock and then plaster up? Or can I keep it? Should I re-plaster everything or is
Vardagsrum: New homeowner here who climbed onto the roof for the first time. I had my suspicion that it was poorly sealed where the vent pipe exits, as I've seen some stains around it where it goes down through the attic. I might not have expected that sealing was practically nonexistent.. Not only at the vent pipe but also at the chimney and verge flashings. There is, however, an attempt at sealing under
Strontus: All finer stone/gravel fractions become darker when wet, only to become lighter when they dry, just like many other materials.
Krille-72: [citat] I would go with gypsum. Much easier to work with when you're not experienced.
Dan_Johansson: [citat] Depends on what you're using the oven for. If you're just baking pizza, you always have a fire going, so insulation is less important. If you're baking bread/cooking, you need to retain the heat, and then insulation is necessary. What's cheaper depends on what you can get. If you have a place that sells vermiculite in larger bags and you avoid shipping costs, it might be better. The fire
Dan_Johansson: Try searching the forum, there are several threads with roughly the same question.. (y) In short, you need something to support the entire oven, people usually cast a slab of pure concrete. Then you need something to insulate between the slab and the firebrick, you can use various materials, the simplest (best and most expensive) is to use a fire protection board (I bought one called "skamotec"
bossespecial: [citat] You have to calculate it, but it doesn't always mean that the new beam will be significantly bigger.
Rolle85: So, it ended with me putting the sheets to make it waterproof underneath and then I laid decking, 28x145mm. Stable and not shaky at all =)
Gabbe1: It is 34 degrees. It definitely makes it easier to have a post in the middle of the ridge beam.
ravve007: I have a 1960s brick villa with a basement, plastered plinth. I will re-plaster the brick facade but only paint the plinth, as it seems to be in good condition. The plinth is about 40 cm high. 1. I assume I should have some type of trim between the new facade plaster and the plinth. Any recommendations for trim? The facade plaster will be about 10mm thick. Can I use "Finja start list"? 2. Is it
KJD: [bild] good to read everything ;) thanks Bosse.
corba11: [citat] I'll check it out tomorrow when I head to the house. However, it's leaning towards the 80 cabinets, and I'll try to figure out the best solution. I'm also going to Ikea to check where the hinges are on the doors.
JohanVSF: [citat] Ok! Thanks for the quick response! I was thinking of putting a skim coat over the outermost latex paint. Could there be any issues with adhesion then?
Huddingebo: Keep in mind to try hitting the studs only. If you just nail into the drywall, it won't hold well.
Rowah: Alright. Either you go to Ramirent and rent a Hilti BG 150 or put on the full mask and use the angle grinder with a grinding cup. For example https://www.jula.se/catalog/verktyg-och-maskiner/elverktyg-och-maskiner/kapskivor-och-rondeller/sliprondeller/diamantslipskiva-016001/
mvs: ...also worth noting that the steps will be 200mm high. Does anyone have experience with steps that high?
Pgam: [citat] 18mm laminated wood board with brackets, we're planning to store laundry detergent, cleaning supplies, and such things there. Yes, it's not secretly nailed, so the studs can be found; I think it's nailed on some thinner lathe. However, unfortunately, I don't want the shelf right where the stud is.
Idefixx: Discovered that one of the posts for the entrance roof had some rot and started cutting with the Morakniv to see how bad it was, and now I have an ugly hole that I'm not quite sure what to do with. My initial thought is to rout out the entire area and inset a new healthy piece, but I suspect there might be other options. How would you have done it? I also welcome tips on ways to improve the
Nybyggarn: Yes, there will be a damper, and possibly a "rökhylla" I believe it is called, but it might not be necessary, as we will be burning directly under the chimney.