Hello
Struggling with a calculation and hoping someone can help me with measurements and tips.
I have removed the old floor of the balcony above our patio. The balcony is "under" the roof that extends out.
Now I want to build a "tight" floor so that it doesn't drip water when it rains.
The plan is to set a new load-bearing beam on the facade and then joists between it and the glulam beam. Everything rested on the glulam beam and its posts earlier so I see no problem with those.
On the joists, I'll lay 20mm tongue and groove boards and roofing felt, etc.
On the new tight roof, I will then lay a balcony floor. (Wood and joists). I understand how to do this but there will be some extra weight to consider.
Since the balcony is under a roof, at most there will be a few centimeters of snow.
Now to the questions about the dimension and spacing of the joists that will go between the facade and the glulam beam.
The distance between these is 1630mm and the width of the house is 8000mm.
I have no problem over-engineering it to make it stable.
Right now I am leaning towards 45x145 with 300 or 400 spacing.
Attaching some pictures so it might be clearer.
Thanks in advance.
Struggling with a calculation and hoping someone can help me with measurements and tips.
I have removed the old floor of the balcony above our patio. The balcony is "under" the roof that extends out.
Now I want to build a "tight" floor so that it doesn't drip water when it rains.
The plan is to set a new load-bearing beam on the facade and then joists between it and the glulam beam. Everything rested on the glulam beam and its posts earlier so I see no problem with those.
On the joists, I'll lay 20mm tongue and groove boards and roofing felt, etc.
On the new tight roof, I will then lay a balcony floor. (Wood and joists). I understand how to do this but there will be some extra weight to consider.
Since the balcony is under a roof, at most there will be a few centimeters of snow.
Now to the questions about the dimension and spacing of the joists that will go between the facade and the glulam beam.
The distance between these is 1630mm and the width of the house is 8000mm.
I have no problem over-engineering it to make it stable.
Right now I am leaning towards 45x145 with 300 or 400 spacing.
Attaching some pictures so it might be clearer.
Thanks in advance.
A useful load (people and furniture, etc.) is usually estimated at 3.5 kN/sqm. In relation to that, the self-weight of the floor material is negligible. 45x145 C24 at c/c 600 mm will be excellently sturdy and good. There's no need to place it more densely. Try to find tongue and groove boards that are slightly thicker than 20 mm.
One way to make the decking solid is to always transfer the weight directly down into the beams, and the job of the subfloor then becomes just to hold up the paper. 20 or 23mm subflooring and 60cc becomes quite solid, so I don't know if it's overkill and completely unnecessary, but most people I see choose to build that way.
This way, you have the option, for example, to go down to 50cc to eliminate much of the flex in 28mm decking if you think it's worth it.
I usually don't have such high standards for flex in patios and such, but on balconies, I think varying flex can feel unsettling even if it's minor.
This way, you have the option, for example, to go down to 50cc to eliminate much of the flex in 28mm decking if you think it's worth it.
I usually don't have such high standards for flex in patios and such, but on balconies, I think varying flex can feel unsettling even if it's minor.