Building Materials and Construction Technology
mike.o: oh awesome! thanks for the tip it worked
Vermilion: They became stainless steel decking screws. They seem to work excellently.
neo11: Looks like it is painted with lime paint, repair with 1mm lime mortar weber 144. And then possibly lime paint.
hydrolift: Try the multi-cutter, it's good for many things. (y) You can rest on the blade and it usually works pretty well to get it straight and even. Then you can fine-tune by pulling it with the tip more directed towards the base, gently. (y)
Hus tomte: [citat] How did it go for you?
fannmo: Haha, yes considering my starting point maybe it's best to be law-abiding then. I removed the Barracuda roof to avoid fire and death, so maybe it's silly to build in the same risk on my own afterwards :) Thanks again for your time, then I can start with the project!
Surly: I was planning to spend the evening continuing to build up lecaväggar but discovered that I ran out of Flexoheft tunnfogslim which I have been using so far. I have a few bags of "weberbase 133 putsbruk B hand," can I use that instead? It's a house about 7x4m consisting of 30 cm wide isoblock and I'm about to start the 9th layer if that matters...
Singenjören89: Got a response from the house manufacturer that they would have done exactly like this, but that they do not want to undertake it as part of their design process because it is a risk construction. Feels a bit tricky to tackle this just with the craftsmen, don't you think?
Höghus: This one perhaps? https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threads/takpanel-fran-byggmax-jem-fix.289044/#post-2634757 /Höghus
BirgitS: As granite ceramics are denser, as Nino writes, they absorb less moisture and can therefore be used outdoors without breaking when temperatures drop below freezing. They are often cut after firing, which makes the tiles more uniform in size and allows for narrower joints, which is unsuitable on uninsulated concrete slabs.
falkn: No serious actors will climb on the roof to change the windskivor. Scaffolding or a lift will be used.
KnockOnWood: [citat] Gullbranna! And quite close to the Skåne border.
lopec: I think many called Folksam yesterday due to the little rain that came further south, so the caseworker might not have thought it all the way through. The current situation is that I've torn down most of it. I just realized that the room was renovated in 2018 by the previous owner in an insurance case, leakage from the roof... so I'm currently on hold with two different companies because I think
justusandersson: Right thinking, I agree! It's always better with walls as intact as possible.
Csmh80: [citat] Hmm... And how can I find that out? Is there anything I can check for?
ArtV: Hello, I've been reading the forum for quite a while and have gotten lots of great tips. Now I've mustered up the courage to create my own thread (and I hope it's in the right place). Anyway.. We recently moved into a house, and we're now thinking of sprucing up a space in the basement that previously served as an oil/pellet storage. I tore out the old pellet container and nearby there's an area
Snickarkirre: Yes, they might be smart. You usually get a narrow and a wider screwdriver so you can try and see. Good luck!
SwiftD: It went well, I bought lime and mixed. It turned out perfect. [bild]
nimhed: There are surely those who know more about this than I do, but I wouldn't worry about the little insulation you might achieve with your new 50mm layer; I would simply cast with regular concrete. I believe the insulation gain you achieve with your examples is highly negligible.
geez: Here is another product on the Swedish page. https://safestep.se/produkt/safestep-betongbelaggning-ytlagning/?safestep=privat
Mattias_Jo1: [citat] Pretty sensitive, actually. Otherwise, you can fold out the lower part. This is what my installation looks like:D [bild]
JanneJanne123: The easiest way is to use a plumb line, i.e., a string with something heavy at the bottom. You can also use a spirit level or laser if you prefer that.
Garagebyggare: Building my own, I don't dare to do. They are admittedly regular trusses, but it still feels like a difficult project. It will be over 70 sqm in size.
rasmussiimes: [citat] Hi! Did you come up with an approved solution with a wooden frame + OSB + at least 50 mm to the chimney pipe? How did you solve the side stabilization of the chimney pipe inside the frame in that case? Normally, a holder/spacer is used that stabilizes the pipe against an underflashing belonging to the chimney (the underflashing is mounted on top of the roof), but I assume you didn't have
Oldboy: Plastic is not good if the room is not heated, but if it doesn't seem to have taken damage over ... x ? number of years, it might work. Have you checked in various places if there is plastic everywhere and how tight it appears to be? However, I would try to change the conditions as little as possible. Then it will be a pitched board floor, untreated. So any moisture/condensation can dry upwards.
TjabbaTjena: Hello! I tore out the floor with plastic against concrete and walls with wooden studs and insulation about six months ago in the den in our basement. All the other rooms in the basement have elevated floors and plastered walls, except in the den. Here, it's bare unpainted concrete on the floor and concrete block walls. Now to the problem. I have cleaned thoroughly several times, tried