Building Materials and Construction Technology
Knattecrossfarsan: Does anyone know what this product is called and where it can be found? Most likely sold in a roll and can be used as edge protection for various building boards, in this case a plank of formplyfa.
joasag: [citat] I was there just now, and unfortunately, it's the same situation there, they only have one model and it's not the one I have. His idea was to buy regular tongue and groove paneling and mill the angle you need. Unfortunately, I don't think that will work either because the tongue and groove paneling has too "large" tongues.
BirgitS: Welcome to the forum! In addition to the fact that the floor must be insulated if you want to avoid having a very expensive heating system, you will also experience an uncomfortable draft from the windows if they are not sealed to the standard of today's houses.
Sintei: Sorry, there you can see what happens when using the wrong word. So, I don't want to encase the entire glulam beam. Where it goes into the roof ridge, I need to seal. There's about 1-2 cm between the glulam beam and the ends of the wood that make the roof ridge. I was told that sheet metal is needed, and some sealant underneath to seal it. I'll see if I can change the main heading.
MasMats: I've bought some timber from Ingemar Arvidsson's sawmill in Benareby. A few years ago, but as far as I know, the sawmill is still there. Great service there. Check if he can solve your problem.
Matti_75: Just put a "plåtande" in the seam
Matte001: Converting an agricultural building to a residence requires planning permission, just so you know.
Andreas40: [citat] Ok.. Yes, maybe 1-2 fresh air vents in the outer wall will be enough. I'm planning to start with one with a 120 mm pipe.
![[SKPG]Zamora](https://static.byggahus.se/forum/avatars/s/99/99332.jpg?1361526904){kind=avatar}
[SKPG]Zamora: [citat] Same thing with the expression "government". Stop!
Workingclasshero: [citat] Hello, no, here we normally ask openly and answer openly. There are advantages to using 45x45, as there is some space to run electrical in and you get more insulation than plywood, but with plywood, you gain even more space at the expense of insulation unless you use a better insulation. So this was a well-intentioned tip. Good luck /W
Daniel Larsson: Hello, I have an extension made in 1985 (as we believe/know). The house was built in 1936. Long story short. I had a stone/concrete staircase to my entrance. Underneath this staircase was an entrance to my garage. The hole was about 2x1m. Now the staircase is demolished, and the basement has been extended (a room 3x5m). What remains now is the entrance to the garage. This entrance is quite
Luc Reiner: I recently did a similar operation at home. Buy or borrow a prop to temporarily hold up the ceiling: https://www.hornbach.se/shop/Stamp-160-290cm-max-1800kg/5069983/artikel-detaljer.html And remove the pillar to put a new one in place with tjärpapp or similar against the concrete.
Jonatan79: Flour off! Non-asbestos! Tear down and renovate, be happy and enjoy life!
yehor: I am going to tear down an old ceiling and thought I'd take the opportunity to glue my neighbor's squeaky plank floor/spontgolv from underneath. I don't want to use screws as that might cause problems if they want to open up their floor from above in the future. The glue surface will be minimal, only on each side of the beam where it meets the floor. Which glue should I use? Preferably something
Romben: Hello! I'm looking for some advice on plastering a fireplace. I've been trying to come to terms with the yellow/orange brick for several years, but ideally, I would like to plaster at least the outer, more visible parts. Does anyone have any tips? Clay plaster seems to be the way to go, but other than that, I'm not sure. Google mostly gives me suggestions on how to renovate other things with such
scorp1on: [citat] For those interested: I compared a simple case with a point force in the middle where I considered the cross-section as an upside-down L-section that is simply supported between the support columns. Fixed at the bottom and only deflection in the load plane. Did a simulation to confirm the calculation, see image below. Iz (moment of inertia) becomes 111314214 mm^4, point force of 4 kN, L =
Spiraltoy: [citat] Have already redone the flooring in the kitchen and bedroom with the same underlay and then I used a morakniv. However, I hadn't moved in yet so I was wondering if there was a faster/more efficient way.
mattias1343: [citat] Ok, it was the owner who built the house himself, it could be his own idea, which creates problems for me since I don't know where the rules are. I will lay battens again with 80cc and attach the battens to the 21x95 planks that are between the boards. I don't want to tear down the whole wall and start over.
gustavberden: Hello! I have come across a batch of Ytong interior walls that I plan to use partly for my upcoming chicken coop. There will be both interior and exterior walls. What should I plaster them with? Do they need to be slurried? In the picture, I have laid the first course with mortar B.
Marthalavinia: Hello! I'm planning to build a hip roof over our terrace. I have a few questions that I'd love for you to answer! ☺️ - Should I install the top plate and bearing beams before or after the new paneling? - Best fastening method for the glulam bearing beam? - What's the easiest way to calculate the angles? Anything else smart I should consider?
KJD: [citat] Ok, thanks for the response. How can I determine if the floor is floating? Check under the skirting boards for expansion joints? saw this at Moelven: "For glued (floating) floors, the recommended maximum width is 4 meters. For larger areas, the room must be divided with expansion joints. Floating floors should not be loaded with heavy furniture, fixtures or partitions that hinder the
Wils1955: I built such a wall 2 years ago. The only difference is that I only had single drywall towards the hall, then I glued and screwed both the plywood to the pocket frame and the drywall to the plywood. It became really stable before tiling and even more stable after it was finished.
trasker: [citat] Yes, that's the issue with space; there's a window on that wall and I probably need to change the window trim? if I put plasterboard on top, but it's just one window so that should go quickly. There are some outlets and other things that need to be plugged, so plasterboarding them is probably the fastest option anyway! Thanks for the help!
Ironside: [citat] If the house is listed or similar, I completely agree, but if not, I see nothing wrong with modernizing a house as long as you sync it so it applies to almost everything. In our case, we've renovated the hallway upstairs and downstairs with new moldings, new floors, new doors, new walls, and a new ceiling, so it becomes natural to renovate the staircase to fit in. Of course, one can argue