Hello,

I have a low 1.5-story house with Leca on the first floor and a wood frame on the upper half. On the lower floor, there is currently an opening of 1.6 m in the gable where a double door is installed. I want to increase this opening to about 2.15 m in one direction. On the upper part (wood frame), the same 1.6 m opening is directly above my existing opening. On the sides of this upper opening, there are two studs, which means that when I want to increase my opening width below to the new 2.15 m, one of the studs ends up on the new larger opening. How much load are we talking about? Is it enough to just place a longer Leca beam and that it can handle the load, or do I need steel? The height I have available for the load-bearing beam is 200 mm, and the house is located in Halland.

Thanks in advance!
 
  • Hand-drawn house elevation with measurements for expanding an opening from 1.6m to 2.15m, showing Leca blocks, wooden beams, and construction notes.
More information is needed to be able to calculate it: Roof pitch and c/c distance between the rafters. I assume that there are regular rafters between the gables. Also, aren't there more vertical studs than the 6 you have drawn?
 
J justusandersson said:
More details are needed to calculate this: Roof pitch and c/c distance between the rafters. I assume it's regular rafters between the gables. Also, aren't there more vertical studs than the 6 you've drawn?
Thanks for the response!
The roof angle is 30 degrees. The rafters aren't exactly there, rather beams run in the opposite direction than typical rafters. Please see the drawings I attached, which might clarify. The pen shows the current opening.

Regarding the vertical studs, there aren't more than what I've drawn...
 
  • Architectural drawing with pencil pointing to specified opening, showing beams layout and measurements related to a 30-degree pitched roof.
  • Blueprint with structural details including beams, blocks, and opening locations. A pencil points at a specific opening relevant to the project discussion.
  • Architectural blueprint depicting a cross-section of a house with detailed notes on the roof angle, beams, and structural elements. A pen indicates an opening.
Original solution even if it complicates the whole thing. Then I need to know the length of the ridges and their mutual distance.
 
Yes, it is a somewhat special construction!

Are these the measurements you mean?

1 = 7.3 m
2 = 6.4 m
3 = 5.5

All have support in a trellis that is 4.5 meters from the outer wall (blue line)
 
  • Blueprint with measurements and a ruler, showing construction details with handwritten red numbers. The focus is on length and support measurements.
  • Blueprint sketch with a ruler measuring a diagonal structural line, annotated in red. Text includes dimensions and construction details.
  • Architectural drawing with red arrows showing measurements: 1 = 7.3 m, 2 = 6.4 m, 3 = 5.5 m; blue line indicates trellis support 4.5 m from outer wall.
I get the point load to roughly around 7 kN. Lecabalkar is not an unambiguous term. They have different dimensions, and the load-bearing capacity per meter also depends on the span. A sturdier model should work. At least you have something to start with.
 
Thank you so much for this!

For me, it doesn't really matter if it's leca-balk, steel beam, or wood. I'm thinking that I want the most economical option that can handle the load and a maximum height of 200 mm. Do you have any recommendation there?
 
Hello again,
How do you assess this situation? Can it withstand a point load of 7 k/N? The product sheet specifies the load as max 5 kN/m for a lecabalk of 2900 mm and 10 kN/m for a lecabalk of 2400 mm.

Thanks in advance : )
 
In general, I believe that Lecabalkar work best with distributed loads. A 2400 mm beam that can handle 10 kN/m is probably sufficient, but it's a bit bothersome that one cannot calculate it more precisely. Steel beams of HEA type become very small in relation to the size of the Lecablocks. There doesn't seem to be any truly optimal solution.
 
S_Moln S_Moln said:
Thank you again for the response

It's a bit short, the beam that is 2400 mm. And the longer one, 2900 mm, can handle less load. Did you see the PDF sketch? I was wondering if it would help if I put a stud in the window section, between the door and the fixed window? To be able to use the 2900 mm beam.

Or should I rather choose two glulam beams 45x180 instead of leca beam?
S_Moln S_Moln said:
Thank you again for the response

It's a bit short, the beam that is 2400 mm. And the longer one, 2900 mm, can handle less load. Did you see the PDF sketch? I was wondering if it would help if I put a stud in the window section, between the door and the fixed window? To be able to use the 2900 mm beam.

Or should I rather choose two glulam beams 45x180 instead of leca-
 
  • Blueprint of a building's front elevation, showing window dimensions and placement with a 2900 mm Leca beam and structural notes.
Thank you again for the response

does the post in the window section help at all, see picture above. I would need to use the beam that is 2900 mm (which withstands less load than the other) because 2400 mm will be a bit too short.

or can glulam bear more? For instance, 2 pcs 45x180 mm?
 
  • Illustration of a glulam beam measuring 42x180mm, labeled GL28cs, with accompanying dimensions and download option for CAD drawing.
Since it is a window section, there are reasons to limit the deflection additionally. If you choose a 90x180 glulam beam, you have good margins. It is better to increase the width than to double the glulam.
 
Thank you!
So if I use 90x180 glulam, am I good? Can I even skip the extra post between the patio door and the fixed window then?
 
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Then I kindly thank you for the help : )
 
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