Building Materials and Construction Technology
BPBP: Hello! Is my builder thinking correctly regarding the roof construction? Roofing felt Underlayment felt Tongue and groove boards 20-23mm Sheet metal (left over from the old roof and will probably be built-in, a few rust holes but mostly good) TRP 70mm Spray insulation This means there will be an air gap above the TRP, but is that enough? I'm mostly thinking that almost half of it is directly
m800sweden: Ah, nice, I've been in contact with the fire protection association, which sent me to Isover, which sent me to Kami, which sent me to WSP, which sent me to Gyproc's handbook... No one wants to take responsibility ☺️ So it'll just be plyfa under the inner sheet so I have something to attach any shelves and such to. Thanks for the response.
Oldboy: It is a solution that suits better in new well-insulated houses with electric heating (HP) and slab (well-insulated), (even though it is of course completely unnecessary as new well-insulated houses do not have cold floors). The whole point of underfloor heating is to optimize operation for low-temperature systems such as heat pumps (HP). A tight and well-insulated house with controlled/regulated
erkka: [citat] Forgot to follow up, but I went with Byggmax asfaltsklister. Seems to work fine. Thanks for the previous answers.
Daniel Barnaniel: Or you have a single point: "Certificate of approved installation chimney sweep master" as the documentation certificate. If you are going to have a chimney sweep there, that is. Property designation, name, measure: new imkanal, etc.
maah: The cracks look completely normal and harmless, so you can be at ease. It's hard to see how deep and large the cracks are, but it should be possible to skim coat. If they are too large, you'll need to fill them with gypsum plaster first.
pennybridge: Hello, This thread is now 1 year old, and a lot has happened since then... However, the posts remain :D [bild] I've scraped, sanded, and primed all the posts for repainting... The two inner ones, however, have not been touched because I still hope to be able to remove them! Just trying to get hold of a construction company that has time...
andersmc: [citat] If the post will be exposed to moisture, I think it is a good idea to have it impregnated. The glulam will be much more protected.
Åsa Lund: Gyproc has good information about sound classes on walls on their website
Byggglädje: Don't know how the panels are at other places but I bought from Byggmax for the garage. I picked them myself and most were ok or better. Some were broken but I set those aside. And they were quite a bit cheaper than other places. However, it was Byggmax because they had them in stock. Others did not. 3 years later they still look as good when I inspect them. This despite an entire winter with
guggen: If it's on Gotland, you can also try to contact the smaller sawmills that still cut their own timber themselves. PM if you want some tips that might work.
Jgoude: There will always be warmth, and well insulated it is also with glass wool. Then I don't need to feel that this was in vain.
spomopeter: Hi, I have a problem with sizing a flat roof for a garage. The garage is 10x10 meters. I plan to place an HEA beam straight across with a column in the middle. Then I plan to lay 5-meter concrete elements from the edge to the beam from both sides. I will fill soil over the roof (The garage is dug into a slope), I estimate the max roof load to be about 2000kg/sqm. The concrete elements weigh
Kalle91: Hello! I live in an older house in the countryside that currently has wood panels glued to the plastered walls. It's a 70s design overall, and I'm now planning to remove these wood panels and fill in the plastered walls underneath. Under the plaster itself is clay brick, and after last year's drainage, the house has become much drier than before. However, I don't think I'll be able to eliminate
m_renovering: Hi, I have removed x layers of wallpaper from a wall and around the window, a piece fell off at the edge (see picture). Previously, some kind of fiberglass strip was in the entire space up to the window, it has partially come off now when we removed the wallpaper. There is also some kind of plaster there that wasn't on the rest of the wall. Now I need to repair this part of the wall before the
useless: I think it looks like the logs are resting on thinner boards, but the pictures might not tell the whole story... But, as mentioned, it's at least equally important that the supports against the ground are sufficiently stable, so it might be an idea to add a small concrete footing on the ground and a support where the stove will stand?
Spopas: We are now going to build a flower bed using 2 leve block on height. We have some bags of cement left over from the last project. Is it something that can be used for this purpose now? And if so, how should it be mixed? Then planning to plaster the outside and inside so that ugliness doesn't seep in, but I read that platonmatta might be better for the inside?
trasker: Then it will be as it has to be! Many thanks for the feedback!
plåtrickard: Ordinary honest farrier's tongs are an underrated tool....
Derbyboy: Hello, My plan was to install T2-reflecta and T2-red floor heating in front of a sliding door, so only in front of the sliding door. In the rest of the room (40 m2), I'll fill in with floor chipboard, and on everything, I'll lay parquet/vinyl or laminate. There is a crawl space under the joists. Has anyone tried installing floor heating in just one part of a large room? I'm wondering if the
Mortsken: Recognize and empathize with you! You learn a lot when you have to supervise and check that craftsmen are doing things right :)
Knattecrossfarsan: Does anyone know what this product is called and where it can be found? Most likely sold in a roll and can be used as edge protection for various building boards, in this case a plank of formplyfa.
joasag: [citat] I was there just now, and unfortunately, it's the same situation there, they only have one model and it's not the one I have. His idea was to buy regular tongue and groove paneling and mill the angle you need. Unfortunately, I don't think that will work either because the tongue and groove paneling has too "large" tongues.
BirgitS: Welcome to the forum! In addition to the fact that the floor must be insulated if you want to avoid having a very expensive heating system, you will also experience an uncomfortable draft from the windows if they are not sealed to the standard of today's houses.
Sintei: Sorry, there you can see what happens when using the wrong word. So, I don't want to encase the entire glulam beam. Where it goes into the roof ridge, I need to seal. There's about 1-2 cm between the glulam beam and the ends of the wood that make the roof ridge. I was told that sheet metal is needed, and some sealant underneath to seal it. I'll see if I can change the main heading.
MasMats: I've bought some timber from Ingemar Arvidsson's sawmill in Benareby. A few years ago, but as far as I know, the sawmill is still there. Great service there. Check if he can solve your problem.
Matti_75: Just put a "plåtande" in the seam
Matte001: Converting an agricultural building to a residence requires planning permission, just so you know.