Building Materials and Construction Technology
Claes Sörmland: Lime plaster, it's a sticky story so it sticks nicely to the net. It consists of slaked lime and sand. Example of a bagged product: https://www.bauhaus.se/kalkbruk-grov-cs-i As mentioned, at least two coats, maybe three. You might build up 5-7 mm per coat, and by looking at the thickness of the old plaster, you'll get a sense of the number of coats needed. The plaster is very corrosive, so
Richard1234: [citat] Found this image in another manual, it seems to be correct? [bild]
Kofötterna: The idea is that the wall should be even before the ceiling is placed, but it is arched (round staircase on the other side of the wall, so part of it is a niche), so there will be some form of measuring as you say. Cool, now I know how to proceed. Many thanks!
Oldboy: What may become a problem is likely the chipboard flooring. Chipboards and moisture are not a good combination. But it depends on how damp/wet it gets on the floor from the ducks. In any case, it's just a matter of checking up on it a few times a year. If the chipboard, or anything else, turns out to have a problem, then you just deal with it at that time. That's when you appreciate simple
16386: It does vary between municipalities, but doesn't the municipality require a construction drawing in the building notification? Or in other words, don't you need to hire a structural engineer? (Now I've assumed that the property is covered by a detailed plan - I think it looks like you have a neighbor nearby.)
Rickard.: [citat] Oh, someone else should probably answer this, but in the 50s maybe YAL was used, and it is probably in all ways worse than even the cheapest available on the market today.
jonko: Take a fine drill and drill away as much as possible of the plug and then pull/screw out the screw with a suitable pliers.
anaitis: No. It's just the measurements that make their most common use as a column or beam.
Fredrikalteblad: Hello! I expanded the wall in the conservatory, initially considered installing paneling but would probably like to continue with a plastered wall. How should I proceed then? Install drywall? What type of mortar?
Stampen: [citat] a bit like that, I assume I won't hit a stud, and if it turns out to be a stud, then 40 mm in gypsum+chipboard+stud is better than just gypsum and chipboard, but sure, if it's something heavy, you can switch to a longer one, the one the manufacturer provided, etc.
hempularen: We have a room in the basement with a built-up wooden floor. Recently tore it out due to a broken sewage pipe. Minor water damage, but it was open for rats via the broken pipe. That room was renovated during a remodel around 1960. There were planks embedded in the concrete, nails in the planks were embedded with the heads down in the concrete. Then there was a thick layer of tar over the concrete
raderat: [citat] He tried to be a bit funny and hinted that you and many others don't really know what cement is. That is, you confuse cement with cement-based material (e.g. concrete). He has explained several times that cement is a binding agent, a powder. You don't build walls out of powder. Cement is used as a binding agent along with other ingredients to create a material that you then build things
Gabbe1: If you clamp the foam plastic against the base with battens and long screws. Then you can screw a baseboard into the battens.
useless: [citat] Since the temperature is the same on both sides in this case, the choice of moisture barrier isn't so critical which type of moisture barrier you choose. The important thing is that the moisture is kept on the right side.
Snickarkirre: Hi! You could split wedges from studs and place them on top of the existing framing, then add battens and then the roof. Which way do you want the roof pitch to go? If you follow the long studs, the wedges will be less visible, I think. But what is the dimension of the framing? It looks like there's a pretty long span there. Maybe it's an optical illusion or the roof sags a bit? Do you live
Snickarkirre: Hey! If you know how the studs are arranged in the wall above, you could draw a diagonal brace on each end of the balcony and anchor it to the wall's frame? You'll have to remove some panel boards to access it, but it shouldn't be too major an intervention.
Dannnnnnne: No, that's what's in the tool case today so it's not a huge weight. I was thinking of buying some of those hooks and holders for the pegboard and screwing them up.
Dubadai: Hello, Long time lurker here on the forum, but I just bought my first condominium, so I felt it was time to make my first post. The apartment is in good condition and there's nothing major that needs to be done, however, we would like to do the following: Replace tiles in the hallway (potentially with underfloor heating) Paint ceiling and walls (seems to be fiber weave in some places, does this
fuentes: Hi! I have made a round hole (about 30 cm in diameter) in concrete blocks for a fan. The frame's mounting surface is quite limited, which means I have to mount the fan a couple of cm into the concrete, from the hole perspective, at 4 points. What's best? Should I dare to use screws and plugs, or is there a big risk that the concrete will crack so close to the edge? Another idea is to glue it,
Enber: Should probably add that the exterior is a brick wall (with a small air gap between lightweight concrete and brick), so there I can probably just place the frame against the inside of the brick opening.
Alko: Hello, I have a sink (Stala Jazz P-40PT) that sits in a custom hole in the outdoor kitchen counter as shown in the picture. On the underside of the small space around the slightly raised metal edge, I have glued an included rubber strip, but it barely seals against the concrete edge, and during rain a lot of water runs down under the sink where I want to store things. I'm considering how best to
Karthago: I am renovating one of the rooms in the house, and in connection with that, I plan to soundproof one of the walls (to another bedroom). The existing wall is a plank wall. My plan is to Install acoustic profiles on the plank wall and two layers of Ultra Board (heavy fiber-reinforced gypsum) on it. 10 mm cavity 70 mm steel studs insulated with mineral wool and with two layers of Ultra Board. Now to
straffarbete: [citat] I bought a smaller dimension of the quarter round to make it easier to bend, and then I sawed it at an angle at some places where it curved the most. In all honesty, there ended up being some gaps, but it's good enough.
Daniel Barnaniel: Of course, it also becomes a bärlina. However, I would have preferred a bärlina under bjälklag, to avoid brackets.
Marike: Evidently, water glass glues the lecablock together. How strong it is, I don't know, but I assume that patience matters. Consider the experiment concluded. [bild]
Snickarkirre: If you're going to have plaster or something on top, it doesn't matter at all. Then just leave it as it is.
Jonatan79: Place the bath on the ground but first gravel and flatten it. Build decking around it, tada!