That carpenter cannot handle sheet metal, everything is wrong in execution, for example, the drip edge at the facade is razor-sharp but barely diverts water.
All the sheet metal must be torn down, cut, bent, and folded.
Sheet metal work is among the last true crafts and requires a certain level of professional skill.
Get an inspector and withhold money, then it will be easier to get somewhere.
Unfortunately, it's getting close to the point where an inspector needs to be involved, especially due to the sheet metal work. What type of inspector would be able to examine completed sheet metal work? What kind of company should I look for?
Bad news:
Even the floor in the conservatory had to be removed and needs to be stabilized with plastic shims, so right now the construction is moving backwards.
Additionally, the room leaked water after the sheet metal was laid when we water tested it, so now there's a silicone chaos up on the roof after the "fix."
It IS a tricky construction and tight space between the balcony beams and the polycarbonate roof, but I spontaneously don't think that 6 tubes of tec7 is the best solution for that...
Right now it's sealed, probably only because of the silicone, and thus we've likely concluded that an inspector needs to be brought in. Are there specific inspection companies for sheet metal? Can another sheet metal company work as an inspection? Meaning, I bring in a tinsmith and without any background information ask if 1) it is properly done 2) what it would cost to redo.
That is the amount that probably needs to be deducted from the payment
Good news: we already have a pine cone family moved in under the deck next to the conservatory. When we removed the insulation, a pile of leaves was visible and today we heard rustling and fussing behind the beam.
I don't know if you've received this comment earlier in the thread...
It is not appropriate to use wedges under the deck in that way. The contact area against the wood becomes very small, and they easily slide away when there is movement, e.g. steps or when the wood shrinks. This applies to both plastic and wood wedges.
If you are going to wedge, you do it with two identical wedges, one from each side to form a rectangle. Even then, it's important to ensure that the wedges don't slide against each other, e.g. glue or screw them together.
Do you have to involve a surveyor for the sheet metal work? It's such a small job, so isn't it easiest to agree on a price reduction (at minimum, no billed hours or materials) and then hire a sheet metal company yourself without involving the carpenter.
I get a bit worried when you say he's willing to fix all the shortcomings - do you know which hours he should be paid for and which he shouldn't?
I don't know if you've received this comment earlier in the thread...
It is not appropriate to use wedges under the deck in that manner. The contact area with the wood becomes very small and they can easily slip away when there's movement, such as steps or when the wood shrinks. This applies to both plastic and wooden wedges.
If you're going to wedge, you do it with two identical wedges, one from each side to form a rectangle. Even then, it's important to ensure that the wedges don't slide against each other, for example by gluing or screwing them together.
Oh damn, I might have touched upon the thought but settled with the idea that plastic wedges have a better contact angle and grip on the grooved surface.
This is really getting worse and worse...
Thanks for the information.
Do you really have to involve an inspector for the sheet metal work? It's such a small job anyway, so isn't it easier to agree on a price reduction (at a minimum no billed hours or materials) and then bring in a sheet metal firm yourself without involving the carpenter.
I get a little worried when you say he's willing to fix all the shortcomings - do you know which hours he should be paid for and which he shouldn't?
Small and small, it's over 100,000 SEK (only labor, no materials)...
A fixed agreed price. Since my impression was that he was so good, so skilled/knowledgeable/competent, I accepted the price because I was keen on getting it done properly with high quality results. So the hours spent redoing fall entirely on his tab.
The reason I need to involve someone is because I have absolutely no idea what to ask for in compensation. I honestly don't even know how to argue against him if he says it's professionally done.
It would have been so much easier if he seemed totally nonchalant and like he got angry over all the errors I pointed out. But his response is just that he wants me to be satisfied and that "if you want me to rip up the floor/decking/redone the joint I'll do it, you should be happy when I leave."
How the heck do you tell someone who's trying that they don't have the competence to make me happy in this context? Especially when you own your first house, barely have a toolbox, and the person you've hired has been a carpenter for 40+ years (and apparently also a teacher in construction in some way).
Oh damn, I've probably brushed against the thought but settled with the idea that the plastic wedges have a better angle and better grip against the grooved surface.
This is really getting worse and worse...
Thanks for the information.
It probably takes longer for the "stepped" plastic wedges to move compared to smooth wooden ones. However, I would never dare to build them in and expect them to stay in place over time.
The simplest way to do it is probably to take short pieces of lumber that you press down against the boards while screwing them into the sides of the beams. (Preferably, you turn the end grain to the sides to reduce potential moisture impact). If the whole construction is warped, it can be aligned with wedges before screwing down the pieces.
It certainly takes longer for the "stepped" plastic wedges to move compared to smooth ones in wood. However, I would never dare to build them in and count on them staying in place over time.
The easiest way to do it is probably to take short pieces of studs that you press down against the plates while screwing them into the sides of the studs. (Preferably facing the end grain to the sides to minimize possible moisture impact). If the entire construction is skewed, it can be aligned with wedges before fastening the pieces.
Yes, @norrbottenssnickaren has pedagogically posted an image showing that solution. It can be of great help if it turns out that I have to finish the spectacle on my own... Thanks for the instruction/answer.
Yes @norrbottenssnickaren has pedagogically posted an image showing that solution. It can be a great help if it turns out that I have to complete the spectacle on my own... Thank you for the instruction/response.
Now saw that this was already discussed earlier in the thread, sorry for the repetition. I simply agree with the previous response
The conservatory floor is still torn up and needs to be relaid.
Today we decided to end the collaboration with the carpenter despite this and agreed on a discount of about 7% on the price. Probably far too little, and it will cost us more to fix the sheet metal than the discount amount. But you have to pick your battles, and for us, it was important to have a resolution that didn't create conflict, primarily because of the person who recommended the carpenter and with whom we have regular contact/help. Additionally, there is a value in not involving inspectors and dragging things out, and avoiding that nagging worry.
Since I have had to check every step to see if it was done correctly, I have learned a lot compared to my knowledge of construction just a few months ago. Not a fun method but effective. So this project is chalked up to the learning budget, both in terms of construction, design, and hiring craftsmen.
Now it's up to me to bring the whole project to completion on my own. There will probably be more issues along the way, and in the worst case, the conservatory might be finished sometime in 2024....
Hello!
It's unfortunate that things turned out the way they did, but now that the decision is made, I can only offer some positive encouragement.
This year, I built a deck of about 45 m2. My construction skills before were very basic, think something like "putting up curtain rods," and I have helped some relatives with projects (but they were the project managers).
It took quite a long time, and I was probably way too meticulous. But now in hindsight, I feel like I've learned a lot. We have now started laying tiles (where we have zero experience).
I think half the charm of having a house is doing things yourself. According to the pictures above, it even seems like it could turn out better than if you pay someone to do it.
GreenYoda said:
Oh damn, I've probably brushed against the thought but settled with the idea that the plastic wedges have a better angle and better grip against the grooved surface.
