Building Materials and Construction Technology
Snickarkirre: Hey! If you know how the studs are arranged in the wall above, you could draw a diagonal brace on each end of the balcony and anchor it to the wall's frame? You'll have to remove some panel boards to access it, but it shouldn't be too major an intervention.
Dannnnnnne: No, that's what's in the tool case today so it's not a huge weight. I was thinking of buying some of those hooks and holders for the pegboard and screwing them up.
Dubadai: Hello, Long time lurker here on the forum, but I just bought my first condominium, so I felt it was time to make my first post. The apartment is in good condition and there's nothing major that needs to be done, however, we would like to do the following: Replace tiles in the hallway (potentially with underfloor heating) Paint ceiling and walls (seems to be fiber weave in some places, does this
fuentes: Hi! I have made a round hole (about 30 cm in diameter) in concrete blocks for a fan. The frame's mounting surface is quite limited, which means I have to mount the fan a couple of cm into the concrete, from the hole perspective, at 4 points. What's best? Should I dare to use screws and plugs, or is there a big risk that the concrete will crack so close to the edge? Another idea is to glue it,
Enber: Should probably add that the exterior is a brick wall (with a small air gap between lightweight concrete and brick), so there I can probably just place the frame against the inside of the brick opening.
Alko: Hello, I have a sink (Stala Jazz P-40PT) that sits in a custom hole in the outdoor kitchen counter as shown in the picture. On the underside of the small space around the slightly raised metal edge, I have glued an included rubber strip, but it barely seals against the concrete edge, and during rain a lot of water runs down under the sink where I want to store things. I'm considering how best to
Karthago: I am renovating one of the rooms in the house, and in connection with that, I plan to soundproof one of the walls (to another bedroom). The existing wall is a plank wall. My plan is to Install acoustic profiles on the plank wall and two layers of Ultra Board (heavy fiber-reinforced gypsum) on it. 10 mm cavity 70 mm steel studs insulated with mineral wool and with two layers of Ultra Board. Now to
straffarbete: [citat] I bought a smaller dimension of the quarter round to make it easier to bend, and then I sawed it at an angle at some places where it curved the most. In all honesty, there ended up being some gaps, but it's good enough.
Daniel Barnaniel: Of course, it also becomes a bärlina. However, I would have preferred a bärlina under bjälklag, to avoid brackets.
Marike: Evidently, water glass glues the lecablock together. How strong it is, I don't know, but I assume that patience matters. Consider the experiment concluded. [bild]
Snickarkirre: If you're going to have plaster or something on top, it doesn't matter at all. Then just leave it as it is.
Jonatan79: Place the bath on the ground but first gravel and flatten it. Build decking around it, tada!
Matti_75: Moisture if there is soil on the outside
-Vinnie-: Hello again, Attached are some pictures and sketches - let me know if anything else is needed. Each beam is about 145mm wide (square, spruce, heartwood). The roof has been lightened by over 1 ton as there were 8 layers of felt (coal tar felt) that I removed and replaced with lightweight felt instead. The roof was grateful for that. There is also a passage where there is no beam, but small beams
Hasselhagen: I have read many threads about fantastic bathrooms, halls, etc. Wondering if anyone has tried using the material on countertops or tabletops yet?
Demmpa: It is likely not enough to just water the boards; they will probably need to soak for a while. Wooden boats are sometimes placed on the bottom for up to a week, depending on the type of wood, surface treatment, etc. It's possible to apply “wet wraps” around the decking boards instead of putting them in water.
Bowser: I have placed such stones directly on a painted drywall behind the fireplace without any thought that it wouldn't hold.
944_Driver: There will be an upper sill in the wall itself that will be raised on floor joists and edge beams, so there's probably no problem with that. I'm thinking about the sill that's underneath the floor joists and edge beams. // Magnus
Rulle86: The brick is about 2 cm thick so the plan is to knock it down. Do you use mortar afterwards to tidy up the edge after knocking down the brick? There will be a cover plate around the cassette but I want to make sure the hole doesn't become too large. Thank you for the help!
Baskavoda: [citat] I also pondered this when I placed EPS in my subfloor under the bathroom. The difference is that the age-resistant one is completely sealed and doesn't let through any moisture. I'm thinking that the EPS needs to be able to dry out downwards (slowly) and that's the reason it shouldn't be completely sealed underneath.
fimpan: I was thinking of asking for advice from those of you who know, if it's even possible... I've bought a garage door for my garage, but it's a bit higher than the current opening, so I'll need to adjust the frame a little. The garage is built somewhat like a simple patio roof, with a very small slope in one direction using tongue and groove boards and thin sheet metal on top. The rafters are 170x45
BBM308: [citat] Yes, I think so. I've been convinced that two 195 studs are enough instead of a glulam beam. I'll set everything up this weekend, so we'll see how it goes :)
HEM2121: [citat] Call the building permit office at the municipality and ask who they usually hire. Otherwise, call several fire stations and talk to a fire engineer. Villaägarna could be an option, technical expert advice. The annual fee is about 400.00
HittePå: The ceiling is "fine" but since it used to be an old boiler room, it is quite sooty and needs to be painted with blocking paint, etc. There is an outlet for lighting as there is a fixture in the ceiling today. Extra attention is fine, this room will become the heart of the house, so I want to go the extra mile even if it might take time :), but thanks for the input!
folkessonm: Hello! Does anyone have experience with plastering an outdoor concrete stair? I've been thinking about using colored concrete and mixing in the pigment myself, it would be great to hear if anyone else has tried this. Does the weather need to be good for plastering?
jackass: New idea after seeing that they have received glulam beams at the hardware store: Buy three 56x225 glulam beams and place one at the ridge and the other two as side roof beams halfway between the ridge and wall plate to relieve the roof rafters. Then the "cross" should be able to be scrapped, right? 45x170 on roof rafters cc 90 with felt roof? The garage measures 3.6*6.2m where the ridge runs