Building Materials and Construction Technology
Dowser4711: Looks like regular metal studs. If you're going to run network cables there, the main thing to consider is to secure them so they don't move more than necessary and damage the insulation. If you're going to run electricity, you'll need a conduit or other protection.
Krille-72: I could probably write a book about housing association boards. After 20 years dealing with insurance claims, I've encountered quite a few amusing characters. In our case, it's usually the Chairman we have contact with. Many holding this position see themselves as some sort of boss. They guess and tell both us and the insurance companies what applies in his association. (It's always been a 'he'
itgust: Hello! I would like to soundproof one of our rooms (about 8m2) that faces our neighbor, which is a preschool with 3-5-year-olds. There are loud children's voices, and it sounds loud when they ride tricycles, etc. Anyone have tips? I'm thinking a new good soundproofing window is necessary and build onto the walls with something?
Ruzzbug: [citat] Yes, it went well. We ended up placing outdoor gypsum directly against the rafter, building up with lecablock outside with an air gap in between, and then plaster on that. Turned out great!
Mazen: 8mm nylon plug and 5x90 screw.
Gummigunnar: [citat] Smart! Leaning towards that solution. Thanks!
cffol: No, paper tape is the strongest. The other option would be to, for instance, have a steel plate behind that bridges the joint, but then you would still have to remove gypsum on the lower part. Cut them a bit lower, chamfer, fill with paper tape and spackle the transition as far as you can to make it look really nice. There are no shortcuts to the perfect result...
robeen: Has anyone tested or seen the final result? https://forestia.byggmagroup.se/produkter/walls2paint/
Tobbe.A: [citat] Thanks! Nice that you are helping me with my different builds (y):D
Botdog: [citat] Hmm, that's something new - I'll check those out, thanks!
Centano: Does it sound hollow everywhere or just in certain places?
raasken: [citat] Ok! Yep from underneath. There was a loose lattice as the floor and gaps so you could see out to the neighbor. The heat built up during the day in the sunroom was gone in 10 minutes when it was windy outside.
nino: I would think that the doors are installed and then some matting has been placed on the ceiling and plastered over it. The ceiling is lower in the garage than in the rest of the basement, which has a wooden ceiling, raw plank or similar. I would guess it's wood wool or something similar that has been plastered over. If there's a beam there, then perhaps it's nailed together with the framework of
Patrik Hazard: Are there no flues in it that are used as natural draught channels? What type of ventilation do you have today? Is it natural draught or mechanical ventilation? Consider if you might have any use for the flues in the chimney. They can serve as shafts for electricity, pipes, and ventilation for future renovations!
Bernieberg: I strongly believe that LK has a minimum allowed distance of 50 mm (Heatfloor 22) but I can't remember which instruction it is stated in and I cannot find it easily.
Alexn72: [citat] The usual when welding on galvanized things is to sand away just where you are going to weld. The nearest galvanization risks burning away if you get the material too hot. Then clean, spray on zinc spray and then paint. It's a good method. So sand, zinc, and then paint.
proffsrik: I used this to tidy up after removing a ledge. Turned out great. Coarse concrete will be too thin to work well. https://www.jemfix.se/betongspackel-10-kg/4172/9036482/
nikasp: Fastys lock has no moving parts and cannot possibly slide open by itself.
Kalle91: [citat] Thanks for the support. Then that's taken care of(y):cool:
evalouise: [citat] I'll throw in a thought here... I want to build a vanity unit from glass blocks, two low walls parallel to each other with a shelf for the sink and a shelf underneath. Has anyone here built something similar?
jbernspang: Hello, Blåbetong as a product is safe to handle, unlike eternit and other asbestos-based products which should be handled with caution if they crack and break. That is, there is no need for remediation. Blåbetong is made from materials containing radon, and this gas decays over time to form radon daughters. Exposure to these increases the risk of lung cancer. Therefore, it's good to keep track
Singenjören89: We are planning to build a new house and realized today that a wall, which is supposed to be partially underground, has been constructed by the house manufacturer with paneling as if it were to stand entirely above ground, like this: [bild] [bild] We would like to achieve the house's vision with the staircase further to the right and stone settings/flower boxes like this over time: [bild] [bild]
fahlis: A number of different suggestions can be found here: Gipsskiva - Skruva och spika rätt i en gipsskiva |dinbyggare.se
Jappse: Thank you, The municipality had no building permits they could see. I visited the future neighbor and their wall was opened as we wish. Apparently, the red wall is made with very sparse studs 900-1200 mm CC and flimsy wood. The ceiling was intact when he removed his wall as the wall was placed after the load-bearing structure according to him. Thanks for the answers.
Claes Sörmland: The most important thing is to comb in a way that the ridges and valleys are parallel. Then the right comb size in relation to the slab and adhesive that is suitably stiff. When the slab is then pressed down, the ridges push out into the valleys and the adhesive becomes homogeneous. The air in the valleys slips out the side since all the valleys are open. There are great videos on YouTube showing
Peter2400: [citat] Biltema both good gun and extender. https://www.biltema.se/bygg/kemikalier/fogpistoler/fogskumspistol-2000023750 https://www.biltema.se/bygg/kemikalier/fogpistoler/munstycke-10-st-2000030654
tergo: Regular plaster, in wet areas you can use wet room paint for the plaster
Campar: Not really sure if this is in the right forum section, but I'm trying. We are going to build an Attefall building on the plot and the ground where it will stand slopes maybe about 1m over the distance that the house will occupy. So it will be like a split-level house. The house will be built on a concrete slab on the ground and made of wood, but I have concerns about the part that will be where
Snickarkirre: If you don't have a stud finder, it usually works to shine a flashlight or something with grazing light. Then you can usually see gypsum joints or where it is screwed. If you find one spot, it is usually installed on c/c 300 in the ceiling.