Building Materials and Construction Technology
d_lind: Replying to myself. It must be lime plaster. I've sanded a lot now and encountered repairs and a chimney in a much grayer color and with much harder/firmer plaster. These repairs must be some type of cement-mixed mortar. Big difference compared to the cream-colored plaster in the picture, which is much more fragile.
ClasseClas: Use trossbottenskiva instead of asfaboard. Strong recommendation! Favorite in reprise :p;) https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threads/trossbottenskiva.423990/#post-4320859
JPL70: I have built an attefall house of 30 sqm (complementary building) and need to submit a fire protection documentation. The walls consist of: 14mm wood panel - Vapor barrier - 95mm Wood fiber insulation - Wind protection - 45mm plank timber. Do my walls meet the EI30 requirements, or do I need to add drywall to one of the houses where the distance is 7-8m? The wood fiber insulation is impregnated
Derbyboy: I think I need to rethink. There will be three posts at the back. I don't dare to attach the terrace roof to the facade. I previously made a six-meter beam replacement right where the terrace roof will be built.
D3nn05: Hi! The other day, I checked what kind of slab we have on our house and according to the paperwork, it just says "fully insulated slab on grade." Before I looked it up, I thought it was insulated. The house is from '78 so I thought it might be the one with the risk construction where the insulation is on top of the concrete, but when we renovated the laundry room and they broke up the floor, it's
Kane: Operate with a 19 cm step height. It is the maximum according to recommendations but not unreasonably high. (Similarly, a 25 cm step depth is OK, it is at the minimum recommendation).
heimlaga: Brick must be at least 30 cm above the ground, otherwise it will freeze and crack in a few years. The wooden frame should not go below ground level, as it has proven to be a construction that rots and molds in practice even though some claim it should not in theory. If you are building a facade with recycled brick without holes, you should remember to use lime mortar. If you build traditional
Derbyboy: Don't think hanging doors flex. They should stretch and hang straight, but I could be wrong.
jopeaa70: We are in the process of renovating an old stable with everything that entails. I have looked at different threads regarding the floor that I partly have to tackle to get it to the same level, i.e., the lowest level. I guess renting a floor saw is preferable when you need to lower the ridge elevation for feed where the animals used to stand. The old channels need to be filled and a layer of new
justusandersson: Such trusses rest only on the outer walls. There are no load-bearing interior walls. The exception can be at house angles where the trusses change direction. Above the bay windows, there are glulam beams that take up the truss load, as shown in the roof plan.
Snickarkirre: Oh perfect, then it's all calm! Haha that sounds good (y)
roggabear: [citat] has anyone done something similar for a well-ventilated air gap? Am I risking problems with water intrusion if I drill ventilation holes through the façade right above the sill? I'm in the process of nailing battens against the outer panel to get an approximately 25 mm air gap. Then I will nail the wind barrier on the inside of the battens. Inside the barrier, the insulation will be
jonaserik: Scrape out the styrofoam, level it with sand (it should be dry) so it's at the same level as the other sand, cut new styrofoam so it can be pressed down slightly, you can use a hacksaw blade to saw.
Ark Ign: Hi Karin! Almost 10 years later I don't really expect a response, but I'll try to reply anyway! Spontaneously, adding insulation with mineral wool (which is not hygroscopic) feels questionable in that exterior wall, wouldn't something like cellulose be more suitable? Regardless of the material, it would of course be wise to look at how the wall's temperature gradient changes with internal
janwide: [citat] Ok. Unfortunately, I don't have a moulding gun. Considering routing the underside of the click floor. And then gluing a stair nose according to my nice picture. I'm thinking that there won't be any load on the stair nose from above and that it will also look nice. What do you think? [bild]
Rickard.: [citat] Yes, the one called abra seal & fix, but it seems to be sunchem (as the post above mentioned) that manufactures them.
Duggregnet: Hello! In connection with the rain yesterday, we discovered a leak in the laundry room ceiling at a fluorescent light fixture. The laundry room is located under the porch, which is made of concrete. There are cracks in an old repair on the outside of the porch above the fluorescent light, and it seems likely that water enters there when water pools on the stairs when it's windy. I would prefer to
dalis10: Anyone have any tips? I'm mainly wondering about how to handle the roof joists. Should it slide between the beam and it, or should I use angle brackets as per the sketch?
Killinallan: [citat] Haha yes, you could say that, but it will hold!
Mhuusko: Planning to cast a floor over an arch of limestone. I'm considering hydraulic 3.5 lime with 0-4 sand. About 5 cm thick without reinforcement. Anyone with experience with similar projects?
Snickarkirre: Yes, definitely a cool project! Feel free to post pictures when it's finished so we can see the creation. I'm thinking if you place the angle iron in the floor joist so the lower edge of the angle iron is the same as the lower edge of the stair, then the stair will have a ledge to rest on. Do you see what I mean? Okay, if there's a wall all around, it's probably smart to use that to take some of
ZeroKnowledge: [citat] Nah, those are probably nail holes left from some paper that covered the ceiling before. There was some paper and Masonite on the beadboard that I uncovered this summer. I'll wait until the wood dries properly this winter and then I'll paint it. There's almost always something nice behind something ugly in old houses...
Harrystawanger: skipped the idea of a trimless transition, it will be a seam in mdf against molding in mdf.
halj: The shorter pipe appears to possibly have the type of insulation reinforced with asbestos in the bends. So consider that before you start tearing down the insulation.
RobertLidstroem: Hi! I've built a conservatory on an old deck (which is also the roof of the garage, thinking of a build from 1955, when they liked to drive into a garage). I'm now planning to install Flooré underfloor heating. I've read all the PDFs, talked to 3 salespeople at Bauhaus, no answer. Since I'm planning to lay it on a clean concrete floor/surface. Should I lay some plastic before installing the
justusandersson: [citat] No. The chimney should not be fixed in place. You can always bring in a concrete professional to inspect the staircase opening.
Rompompom: Hello! I'm on the same track with our new house. How did it go for you, what did you do? I'd love to have storage on rails as I think it looks more sleek. I don't want it to look "homemade." And I'm a beginner, so I might be biting off more than I can chew. Is there a good guide? Tips? Thanks!
Jerrkan: Hello, I'm in the process of tearing down some additional walls in the basement and the plaster has come off in some places, revealing a dark brown/black rubber-like material. It's about 3-4 cm thick. The house is from 1959. [bild] Does anyone know what this is? // Erik