Viktor.J
Viktor.J: [citat] on the floor plinth or the frame you've built? there are adjustment screws for windows, etc. that can be used. How uneven is it?
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IceBeear
IceBeear: Hi! I need to make a staircase with a total height of 1.1 meters to get up from the garage to the house. Due to space constraints, it will be a curved staircase. I'm thinking of building a steel frame and then casting separate concrete steps to lay on. The width of the steps will be between 1 and 1.4 meters. How do I know how thick I need to cast the steps? I don't doubt that even a relatively
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Mygelmeister: I used the fiber net, so far nothing has cracked and the result turned out well. I will probably do the same in the next room as it was significantly less messy and troublesome in my opinion.
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Snabelhund: [citat] Great, I'll go with cc60 then
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Krillehus: I have an inner panel with a thickness of 15 mm for which they recommend 1.2 mm x 50 mm brad nails for the installation. I am planning to attach it directly to interior walls consisting of 16 mm Plywood or on sparse ceiling panels of 22 mm. If you shoot brad nails into the tongue, it's about 10 mm of material it has to go through, then 16 mm Plywood. If you don't hit a stud, you're shooting 50 -
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Ploulack
Ploulack: [citat] The problem is that both are only for professionals... I haven't been able to find a seller on 3000 that isn't limited to professionals.
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FredrikR
FredrikR: [citat] How close is the garage to the house or another building? Here it was explained a bit: https://www.mellbygarage.se/sv/blogg/information/brandskydd-for-garage/ Many put OSB behind the plasterboard, then you can easily screw things onto the walls. It also works well with chipboard, plywood, or tongue and groove behind.
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sultanen1: Thanks for the response/suggestion. We'll see how it goes, whether it will be råspont or plastering/repairing. However, I've never worked with plaster/cement...
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Felde: Haven't really decided yet, but leaning towards wallpaper
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justusandersson: That section does not match your house. It is impossible to make accurate assessments if you only see snippets of the drawings. Go to a copying service and ask them to scan the entire drawings so all the information can be read. Since the townhouses have different layouts, there are probably more sections than one on that drawing.
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vanpire: Hello, I have a damage on the floor in my workshop and need to replace a number of square meters. But when I contact Verkstadsboden, they have changed the design on Pela garage flooring, which means it's not possible to complement it. I had a few square meters lying around, but it's not enough to cover the area. The floor tiles are 300 x 300 x 8 mm. I bought them in 2015 and they were about to
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fribygg: [citat] I absolutely think TS should carry out his project if he can, can afford it, and thinks it looks nice. What I or for that matter you think about illuminated facades is quite irrelevant unless you happen to be a neighbor and have to live with seeing the illuminated facade.
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JohanVSF: I am about to extend the frame where the stove used to be. This way, the entire construction connects to the cabinet where the fridge was (where I now have the microwave/oven). I will then raise everything about 5 cm before installing a new countertop that can then run the entire length. However, I would need a little inspiration on how to best proceed. Build a completely new cabinet that I wedge
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Kristofferm
Kristofferm: [citat] In my case, the twisting started at half the floor joist, so one half was straight and the other half heavily twisted. If it had been possible to force my beams to match the twist, it would have been a heck of a lot more troublesome than how I solved it. But with less twisting, your solution is much smoother. An addition is that to plane down the top edge, you can build an electric planer
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Bernieberg
Bernieberg: Unfortunate situation, but thank you for sharing so others can avoid the same trouble.
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Isakare
Isakare: Woodlice, concrete blocks or whatever they are called. In my house, they were massive stones, there are also hollow, concrete hollow blocks. But if you have long enough plugs the holes don't matter.
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Tompafix: [citat] Ask a moderator :D
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Rickard.
Rickard.: Is Finja cellplast better than Bewi? I don't think so. Should you choose Isover or Rockwool? It depends. Are Knauf plasterboards the best? Doubtful, but they are good. My point is that it's not so easy to answer what is best.
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Bernieberg
Bernieberg: As a clarification to @justusandersson's comment, which I know he is already very knowledgeable about, it does indeed become stiffer with an additional beam on top, but not nearly as much as if they were glued to fully interact. If you combine two beams of the same dimension (without friction), it becomes twice as stiff as with a single beam. If the two beams are connected (infinite friction), it
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Anonymiserad 284245: Mdf warps significantly, just look at the outer/uppermost board in the stack at the carpentry. But things that are assembled with short distances between braces, shelves, etc., usually hold up well.
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Joel Fägerholt: I was considering making a higher door as well, but I'm unsure if it can be done without having to cut away load-bearing parts. The wall in question is an exterior wall, even though there's a small vestibule behind it. The door is currently ~185cm, so I hit my head on the frame if I'm not careful. Previous owners have covered ugly building beams with panels... If you're wondering what's there.
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Ted Hörman: Hello knowledgeable folks! I have recently been granted a building permit for the construction of three small holiday homes. My hope is to start this during the spring, and I, along with experienced friends, will handle the majority of the work, but I will also contract out some of the tasks when needed. I have some building experience from before but have never built new constructions myself,
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pelig: As long as you don't raise the temperature or plan to stay in the room more than before, it doesn't seem to be a problem to slap up, for example, plasterboard against wooden studs. But if the idea is to increase living comfort by raising the temperature and people will be here more, the risk of moisture formation naturally increases, so you need to think about that a bit. It might be worth
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ArneTW: https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threads/ny-altan-svarta-prickar.383087/ Welded? /ATW
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Mikael Wallin
Mikael Wallin: Can't say I'm an expert on the subject, but I've done and would have done the same thing. It turned out nicely in the end too, well done!
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justusandersson: Absolutely.
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putte_p99: [citat] Perfect! Of course, it's kolstybb. Bowing, thanking for the help.
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JiSO: Hello, I thought I'd try this excellent forum. We have purchased a property with a guesthouse that hasn't been used much for many years. The heating hasn't been working for a while, and the environment under the "crawl space" has been very poor with rocks and concrete covered by a soil layer. Water from the rocks has made the soil layer wet and almost resembled a mucky compost. The space is now
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AnBjaBoo: [citat] Fantastic. The next step will be to fix the ventilation in the attic, which we will block with this... but that will be for later - again, thanks!
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Bernieberg
Bernieberg: Yes, it looks like regular roofing felt for the roof.
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