Building Materials and Construction Technology
fribygg: If it's just a couple of pieces, you can use a chisel, If you want to use an angle grinder, a cheap one from Biltema or Jula will do for your purpose. For 3-400kr, you can get a 125mm grinder that's good enough for home use. It's hardly worth renting when you can get one yourself and a handful of grinding/cutting discs for under 500kr.
DesertCruiser: [citat] I'm probably overthinking unnecessarily .. I'm 99% sure that there is screed over the entire floor structure on the whole upper floor, because the floor level is the same across the entire floor and the water and heating pipes are embedded relatively shallowly.
Achren57: Received this response from Biltema regarding whether their thread sealant is safe to use with drinking water.
KnockOnWood: [citat] Probably not necessary at the moment. But who knows what will happen in the future? The storage can become a guest cottage, year-round home office, teenager's residence, or anything else. So I would use plastic. It's quick, and not difficult or particularly expensive.
jonaserik: The one with black TJA, it doesn't matter, it will be removed and become small pieces, just more to clean up.
Hojte: [citat] Yeah, good that you discovered it, there's a reason why many stores have few of such items on the shelf, like grout too, poor best before date is important to check.
NiBaBaD: Good evening I'm currently renovating the summer cottage (60-year-old house with thin walls) and have replaced the windows, added insulation to the exterior, and installed new facade boards. Everything is really nice and airtight now. But - when I began checking the floor insulation from underneath, I noticed two "flaws" or aging issues. The house is on piers and has a traditional framework with
Anaxes: Aha! Is this better, worse, or the same? https://www.beijerbygg.se/privat/sv/produkter/byggmaterial/bindemedel-bruk/bruk/puts-murbruk-c
Bernieberg: Then there is likely some form of distribution in the wall behind the panels with leak indication. What the low-placed pipe is if it isn't leak indication is unclear then. Regardless, it is incorrectly placed. Maybe not a big deal, but for me, it would have been a small warning signal regarding the competence of the person who did the bathroom. I would carefully inspect how the entire
oswim: Hello everyone! I am in the process of planning a construction of a vacation home in Orsa with loose materials and will eventually start requesting quotes from various building supply stores. Initially, I will be able to provide a rough estimate of how much material I need, but eventually, give a more precise one. Here is our quite rough budget:
MathiasS: Ok it took a little while longer before the pipes were in place. I think it will be good. A couple of these LK holders would be nice as extra fixation where I went bananas with the machine and it got a bit wide. [bild] [bild]
BSOD: Would probably just pressure wash the wall and consider the staircase. Maybe granite cladding on the steps would enhance it. Don't think you can just plaster straight away either. Possibly if you apply a layer of facade insulation for plastered facades, and then mesh. Then the insulation can absorb certain movements. But I'm far from sure that such a construction would hold. Probably also
AXS: If it works with a stone saw, it is definitely the fastest. It probably depends a lot on what type of brick it is though.
splenny: Thank you all! Then at least I dare to sand and use the oil. I'll go carefully with the sander :)
Snickarkirre: Okay, then it should be fine! There are 20mm rebar spacers available to buy, if you nail those into the form and then attach the rebar to them, it will maintain the measurements (y)
Anonymiserad 184001: With 120x45, you get a deflection of 10 mm with C24 at 100 kg/m2, which is approximately 300 kg on the surface roughly. With 145x45 C24, you get 5 mm. However, the simplest solution is a support leg in the middle of the span, then you can easily use 120x45. Best regards, Joakim
justusandersson: Plank walls with rörning (reed matting) and plaster or brick and plaster. Here it leans towards the former. In that case, you don't need anchors but rather a set of wood screws of varying lengths.
Rickard.: I had bought 120cm plaster and offset the joints against the OSB and screwed into the studs (as you actually should) but it really doesn't matter if you screw through the plastic, otherwise you would never be able to screw anything onto the walls.
Kristofferm: I have a somewhat strange "basement room" which is in the corner of the house. It goes down a little over 1.20m below the rest of the house's foundation, which is a crawl space. It used to be a closed-off space with roughly the same ceiling height as the other rooms. I am tearing down the closed-off space in the ceiling and plan to open up one of the walls towards the room, wanting to create a
Thomas_Blekinge: The theoretical answer: The difference between where the saw first hits the trim and the long point is the same as the trim's width. The practical answer: I usually cut the trim a few centimeters too long. Then you can hold it where it should be and see that all angles etc. are correct and then fine-cut it with the same angle setting until it fits.
LjLindgren: Hi. The plan for the weekend is to add several cabinets to the kitchen. These include three tall cabinets and two wall cabinets above the fridge and freezer, all from IKEA and are to be mounted on a rail. The wall to which they will be attached is made of aerated concrete and is quite thin, 70 mm. However, since the cabinets rest on legs at the front and also attach to each other, it should be
Demmpa: The parquet floors (I know TS is asking about laminate flooring) that I have installed (click variant) should have at least 50cm between the joint and the edge (wall), and at least 50cm between two joints on two rows.
Karnbo: We are planning to expand our house and are considering using solar panels instead of roof tiles on the entire south side; we're talking about just under 100m2 of roof area. I know there are companies that offer the entire job, but I want to do the work myself and am wondering where one can buy a package solution (i.e., buy panels and materials, as well as the system connection, but install the
Per i Hamrånge: [citat] That's kind of what I'm thinking. But now you're going to have underfloor heating, and I have no experience with that in conjunction with a house/floor/foundation of your type. There are a number of factors to keep an eye on. Moreover, by improving the insulation in the subfloor, it can lead to increased moisture load in the crawl space. So I would keep an extra close watch on what's
Björn72: Hello all knowledgeable and wise I am going to renovate the bathroom and laundry room. I am considering Swedoor's Flex+karm, which offers a smooth, simple, and stylish solution. A previously renovated bathroom didn't turn out very well with lining of the frame and cracks in the trim. BUT the trims in the Flex+karm are made of MDF. How does that work in wet rooms? It will not be directly exposed
Höghus: Today on the home stretch it wasn't as difficult to keep the tiles from sliding down. Didn't need to nail them in place. I guess that's how it is for us amateurs, sometimes it works and we don't really know why... /Höghus [bild]
Murmurre: [citat] Hi. Well, it doesn't have to be "professional" (then there are idiots who call themselves pros, but that's another story). I've checked the Swedish Work Environment Authority, so I have a decent understanding of it. Thank you very much for the tip :)
människa: Thank you for the response! Yes, we have received a quote on it. Weber designputs is what it's called. Just very expensive.
Viktor.J: [citat] You could have just written, "someone has to take the cost, and companies preferably do not want to reduce their profit even if it would be an option." I agree with you; that's how the world works. But many seem to have missed that, hence my clarification.