Trim around patio door

[Hasse C]

I have installed a folding partition in the opening left by a garage door. Now I'm a bit unsure about how to install the trim and make it look nice on the wall around it.

I would appreciate suggestions!

 

[Gunnar Johansson69]

I did something similar in May (I will paint and wallpaper any day now, promise!).

I extended the wall around it so that it aligned with the salningsspår and then added a pine smyg. Now, you don't have a salningsspår, but the principle remains the same.

 

[Hasse C]

No, I don't have a salningsspår but I guess I'll place the smygen against the "klacken".
As mentioned, the wall needs to be built a little. Did you put a frame around the entire opening or just blocks at regular intervals?
Should it also be filled with insulation?
Finally, I assume it's best to build the wall with more plasterboard.

 

[lob]

Screw on a U-list and you'll get a perfect salningsspår.

 

[Hasse C]

The part is made of aluminum, so I don't want to screw into it.
I just want the frame. No casings on the outside.

 

[fribygg]

The part is made of aluminum, so I don't want to screw into it.
I only want the trim. No moldings on the outside.

Glued joint and renovation plaster will look nice there, that way you can keep the crown molding.

 

[Gunnar Johansson69]

The party is made of aluminum, so I don't want to screw into it.
I just want the smyg. No casing outside.

No casing and aluminum complicates things

Then I would use deep-reaching blocks with maybe cc 60 (depending on the thickness of the smyg) to get two attachment points. Then splice on with drywall and then putty and apply paper tape at the seam on the wall.

 

[nybyggarn3]

I would like to advocate for using set screws instead of blocks. When I built my house, I made all the reveals from laminated board, without molding. I started with blocks on some windows but then switched to using mounting screws as support for the board.

My reveals are about 30 cm deep, and if I remember correctly, I set three screws in each row, with about 60 cm between the rows. It was very quick to adjust everything to be level, plumb, and perpendicular. I then secured the reveal by screwing it firmly, and the screw heads were plastered before painting.

 

[Hasse C]

Thank you for the wise answers. I think I will lean towards blocks with approximately cc60 and fine-tune them with spacer washers so the hole becomes rectangular and adapted for the door's latch. Then I will glue the trim to the blocks.