Years when vapor barrier began to be taped

[Landetiskane]

Does anyone know when it became a requirement/practice to
- tape the vapor barrier respectively
- install battens between the plastic and the ceiling/panel?

 

[witten]

As I remember it, the taping spilled over from the passive house hype somewhere around 2010. DIY builders started taping even though there weren't passive house requirements.

 

[Landetiskane]

As I remember, taping spilled over from the passive house hype somewhere around 2010. Self-builders started taping even though there were no passive house requirements.

Thanks! Do you also maybe know when it came with spacing between the ceiling and the vapor barrier?

 

[witten]

Uncertain about what you mean, gles has always existed as long as plastering has been done, hasn't it?

 

[Landetiskane]

Uncertain about what you mean, hasn't gles always been used as long as plastering has been done?

Previously, in one place, the previous owner had placed a vapor barrier between the gles and the ceiling panel of the inner ceiling (which then wasn't attached at all when the panel needed to be taken down).

Now, in another place, it turns out that on the rafters, they've placed a vapor barrier and then (without gles) put the panel on it.

Behind the wall at the bottom of the sloped ceiling, there's a cavity where I've now also discovered that the vapor barrier is hanging loose and flapping in the wind, marginally fastened with a staple here and there but with centimeter-sized gaps.

 

[witten]

The diffusion barrier should be placed between the spars and the truss.

 

[Landetiskane]

The vapor barrier should be between the sparse and the rafter.

Thank you so much for your answers, do you know if it has always been like this?

 

[klaskarlsson]

I have previously had a situation where the previous owner placed a vapor barrier between the narrow and ceiling panels (which then didn't stay attached when the panel needed to be taken down).

Now, in a different location, it turns out that they put a vapor barrier on the roof trusses and then, without any spacing, attached the panel directly onto it.

Behind the wall at the bottom of the sloped ceiling, there's an empty space where I have now also discovered that the vapor barrier is hanging loose and flapping in the wind. It's haphazardly attached with a staple here and there, but there are gaps several centimeters wide...

If it's previous owners who did the construction themselves, it's not surprising that it might vary a bit, right?
I don't know if it's directly wrong to put a vapor barrier on the roof trusses and then panel directly, even if it's not the standard practice for a carpenter building new.

You could also skip the vapor barrier, opt for a vapor retarder instead, or nothing at all (which isn't really standard anymore given the insulation standards used today). It somewhat depends on the standard the house was built to.
So the years can probably vary: But between the 1990s and 2010s, they started putting in proper vapor barriers, at least if they insulated properly. The first passive houses came in the late '80s, and that's probably where this practice was adopted (implemented gradually, of course).

A summerhouse might not have a vapor barrier in the same way (and less insulation)? If the house is expanded, it can also be somewhat inconsistent.
But if you want to upgrade, you might want to look into vapor retarders instead, which allow some moisture movement to ventilate out if it gets in (or a vapor barrier with taped seams if you're sure everything else is very tight).

 

[witten]

Thank you very much for your answers, do you know if it has always been like this?

It probably depends on the individual carpenter, but if it's at the top you don't have to make a hole in it for the electrical system. It is also clamped better by the glesen. But if the vapor barrier was installed during renovation, you probably don't want to tear down the glesen so it is what it is.

 

[hempularen]

Then having the panel directly against the roof trusses without battens is mostly a problem of whether the panel is "self-supporting" over the larger distance between attachment points (roof trusses are often at cc 120) and can carry the load from the insulation. If it's a thick panel, it might work.