Installing ceiling panels, staggered joints, how do you do it?

[Träkyrka]

Figured out that 5 full Huntonit panels would fit lengthwise in the room. Now it turns out that I can't rely on the measurements on the packaging since the tongue and groove are not included in the length as they interlock.

On one side, there is a 1 cm gap between the panel and the wall (started there) and on the other side, it turned out to be 4.5 cm... in other words, it didn't work out well. I find it tricky to work out/get a good pattern... how do you do it? I was thinking of laying every other row with full boards, alternating with half-length boards, but now that doesn't work. I want it to look symmetrical and neat. I might have to cut the boards quite a bit now at the start of each row so that it becomes a staggered pattern rather than alternating.

 

[Spett1]

 

[Stensson11]

Calculated that 5 full huntonit panels would fit lengthwise in the room. Now it turns out that I can't rely on the package dimensions since the tongue and groove are not included in the length as they fit into each other.

On one side, there's a 1 cm gap between the panel and the wall (started there), and on the other side, it became 4.5 cm... in other words, not good. I find it tricky to calculate/get a good pattern... how do you do it? I thought about alternating rows with full boards, starting every other with half the length, but this doesn't work now. I want it to look symmetrical and nice. I might have to cut boards like crazy at the start of each row so it becomes a stair pattern rather than alternating.

If you install a molding as a ceiling trim, it can cover a 3 cm gap on each side. Then there will be no visible seam.

 

[Träkyrka]

[media]

I've watched all the videos and instructions about huntonit. The problem remains that the first row creates a gap of 4.5 cm. It feels wrong to cut a 2.5 cm filler piece as the last piece...

 

[jonaserik]

It's not 600 X 1200 as a huntonit board is; it's a few centimeters shorter on each end. Thus, you need to space it so it fits. To make it symmetrical, you'll have to calculate how to start; you can't assume starting with a whole sheet, as that will be wrong. Mark the center of the room with a chalk line or measure. Only then can you get it right. There should be an equal-sized board at the beginning and end of the first row. This means cutting down the first piece, and the leftover part fits at the start of the next row. You might need to cut again, resulting in sawn ends on both sides as they should be, and there will be 3 screws or nails along the walls. Just remember that if you're using nails, there should be a metal clip, and with screws, there will be a bulge in the tongue that must be cut so it's flush with the edge of the tongue; otherwise, you can't fit the boards together. A suitable way to join them is with a piece of board against the tongue and a hammer.

 

[Walle85]

Just remember that with nails, you should use a metal clip, and for screws, there will be a swelling out in the tongue that must be cut so it's flush with the edge of the tongue. Otherwise, you can't fit the boards together. Suitable to knock them together is with a piece of board against the tongue and a hammer.

I pre-drilled and countersunk holes for screws in the boards I installed, solved the problem but took a bit longer per board considering the preparations (30+ seconds extra).

 

[Harald Blåtumme]

...Just remember that with nails it should be a metal clip, and with screws, there will be a bulge in the tongue that needs to be cut so that it's flush with the edge of the tongue, otherwise you can't fit the boards together. The best way to join them is with a piece of board against the tongue and a hammer.

We installed a Huntonit ceiling a couple of years ago, initially tried to screw but it became too much hassle with the bulge you mentioned in the MDF board. Switched to a brad nailer and it was convenient with negligible swelling at the nails, as mentioned it's important to join the seams properly as you go.

However, I don't recognize the part about metal clips, it's something we didn't use. Can you tell me more about it? The result was very good in any case, super quick to install with a brad nailer.

Regarding the original question, it's roughly the same principles as when laying flooring: cut the first board a bit and then have a plan for how you want the overlapping pattern to look balanced. Avoid having too short pieces against the wall, at least 20 cm. We had about 35 cm staggered seams; it worked well and looks neat.

 

[jonaserik]

Yes, they are called panel clips and come in a few different designs, sliding into the groove, and the nail ends up outside the board. When you drive in the nail, it's good to tapp (with a punch, push the nail in a bit more). When the next board comes in place, it is flexible and presses in. It actually works quite well without any bulge in the panels.

Edit. If it is a long room, do not place the boards lengthwise, but rather across the shorter side; it does not look good with an uneven ceiling.

 

[Träkyrka]

I pre-drilled and countersunk holes for screws in the panels I put up, solved the problem but took a little longer per panel considering preparations (30+ extra seconds).

Did not experience any problem assembling the panels I put up.

We installed a huntonit ceiling a couple of years ago, first tried screws but there was too much hassle with the swelling you mention in the mdf-board. Switched to a brad nailer and it was smooth with negligible swelling at the nails, as mentioned, it's important to secure the joints properly as you go along.

However, I'm not familiar with these metal clips, we didn't use them. Can you tell us more about that? The result was very good regardless, super quick to install with a brad nailer.

Regarding the original question, it's roughly the same principles as when laying flooring: cut the first plank a bit and then have a plan for how you want the overlapping pattern to look aesthetically. Avoid having overly short pieces against the wall, at least 20 cm. We went for about 35 cm offset joints which worked well and looks neat.

Didn't think it was a problem to assemble the panels... you might think it should be stated in the assembly instructions to push them together. Maybe can fit them together another millimeter, could make a big difference in the final result. Lots of small things to consider as an amateur 😅

 

[Harald Blåtumme]

Thanks for the great tips @jonaserik, I'll take them with me to a fairly nearby huntonit project - in a very long narrow room. I hadn't thought of that at all! Also, the thing with panel clips, I just need to understand what the point of it is since it worked so well just nailing it up without them. Sure, it took quite a bit of pounding here and there, and these clips might create just the right little gap so it slides together more easily? Just a hypothesis. But thanks for the great input, you learn as long as you live

 

[Träkyrka]

Yes, they're called panel clips and come in various designs, and they slide into the tongue, so the nail ends up outside the board. When you hammer in the nail, it's good to tap it down (with a punch, push the nail in a little more). When the next board comes in, it's flexible and presses in. It actually works quite well without any bulge in the plates.

Edit. If it's a long room, don't install the boards lengthwise but across the shorter part, it doesn't look good with long-striped ceilings.

It's been difficult to decide which direction to lay the panel. Some say along the room, others along the light, etc. Saying that it doesn't look good with long stripes is something new.

 

[Harald Blåtumme]

@Träkyrka: yes, it's just like when laying flooring, if you get a gap, it tends to escalate at the end and you end up with a hassle. Made this mistake with flooring... tearing it up and re-laying is no fun.

 

[nino]

Have put up similar ceilings with staples, I thought it worked well and went reasonably fast.

 

[jonaserik]

Thanks for the great tips @jonaserik, I'll take that with me to a nearby huntonit project - in a very long and narrow room. I hadn't thought of that at all! Also, this thing with panel clips, I just have to understand what the point of it is since it worked so well to just nail it up without. Sure, it required quite a bit of pounding here and there and these clips might create just the right amount of gap so it slides together more easily? Just a hypothesis. But thanks for the good input, you learn as long as you live

With screws/nails there's a total stop to push a board, but with clips, it's possible to push a few millimeters. With huntonit and other boards, they must fit together 100% otherwise the ceiling will start to swing or go completely off. When you start, you need to measure out a perfect 90 degrees and snap a chalk line that you can follow with the edge of a board. It's not certain that the wall corners are at 90, and don't assume they are, or the whole ceiling will be off.
It's fine to use a construction square to get an exact 90 degrees, just search for Byggmästarvinkel and you'll have everything on how it's done.

 

[Träkyrka]

With screws/nails, it's a total stop to push a board, but with clips, you can push a few millimeters. With huntonit and other boards, they must join 100% or the ceiling will start to swing or go totally haywire. When you start, you should measure out an exact 90 degrees and snap a line that you can follow with an edge on a board. It's not certain that the wall corners are at 90, and don't start thinking they are, or the whole ceiling will be off.
It's fine to use a carpenter's square to get an exact 90 degrees, just search Carpenter's Square and you'll have all the info on how it should be done.

I measured out a cm from the wall on each side, then snapped a line between these. This line, which runs along the longest wall, I planned to follow. I'll probably snap a couple of lines during laying to ensure it stays straight. But by following the line, I think it's okay that the boards don't join 100% since I'm following the line.

On the room's short sides, there's a difference of a cm, but I think it's negligible since it won't be visible with a gap of a cm along a 6-meter wall.