Frame interior wall with 34mm studs

[MPilen]

I am going to build a stud wall and I'm wondering if 34mm thick studs are enough? The reason is that I need to fit in two sections in as little width as possible, one where the distribution cabinet will be placed and one where incoming electricity will be routed, followed by an interior door. If I use 34mm instead of 45mm, I save 3 cm in width, which actually makes a bit of difference. What do you think, is it possible? Any disadvantages besides it being harder to hit the stud when attaching the OSB?

 

[useless]

How do you conclude that you save 3 cm?

 

[Lexington]

He measures the width, 45-34 = 11 mm x two compartments (three studs) = 33 mm.

 

[MPilen]

How do you conclude that you save 3 cm?

for the two compartments there will be a total of three vertical studs. If each stud is 34mm instead of 45mm, the total width decreases by 33mm, i.e. about 3 cm

 

[useless]

The shelves are still 90 or 120 cm wide, right? The simplest solution is probably to adjust one of the compartments based on the door's placement (if that is what's controlling it)?

 

[MPilen]

The boards are still 90 or 120 cm wide, right?
The simplest way is probably to adjust one of the compartments based on the door's placement (if that's what's guiding it)?

Okay, I need to clarify a bit. This is how the construction will be from left to right: Beam - distribution cabinet (55 cm) - beam - conduit for incoming electricity (32 mm) - beam - interior door. I want to get the door as far to the left as possible. With 45 beams, it's 722 mm, with 34 beams 689 mm.

 

[klaskarlsson]

I absolutely believe so: The inner wall should only support itself, and if you put up OSB/plywood before the gypsum wall, it will also stabilize it. You just need to be a bit more precise when screwing up the boards

 

[useless]

Okay, I should probably clarify a bit. This is how the construction will be from left to right
Stud - distribution cabinet (55 cm) - stud - conduit for incoming electricity (32mm) - stud - inner door.
I want to get the door as far to the left as possible. With 45-studs it will be 722mm, with 34-studs 689mm.

Does it have to be two compartments?

 

[MPilen]

Does it have to be two compartments?

Yes, we need to get the incoming electricity up and since the distribution cabinet fills the entire compartment, another one is needed.

 

[Lexington]

Okay, I should probably clarify a bit. The construction from left to right will be like this:
Stud - distribution box (55 cm) - stud - incoming electrical conduit (32mm) - stud - interior door.
I want to get the door as far to the left as possible. With 45-studs it becomes 722mm, with 34-studs 689mm.

You might be able to put a 20 mm stud closest to the wall on the left, then distribution box 550, 45 stud, conduit 32, and finally 45 stud.
That would give you a width of 692 before the door comes in.

Or split the studs down to 40 and save another 10 mm so you get 682.

 

[MPilen]

You might be able to place a 20 mm stud closest to the wall on the left, then the manifold cabinet 550, 45 stud, tube 32, and finally 45 stud.
Then you would get the width 692 before the door comes.

Or split the studs down to 40 and save another 10 mm so you get 682.

Maybe. But why is it important with 45 studs?

 

[fribygg]

If you're going to have a wet room or tiled surface on the other side of the wall, there may be requirements/need for 'beefier' wall studs, but if it's a regular room with double-layered walls, I'm fairly sure it will be sturdy enough the way you've planned. Maybe you could even replace one of the 34mm studs with a board if the wall starts against another wall and the 'stud' is just there for screwing the sheets into.

 

[klaskarlsson]

If you're going to have a wet room or tiled surface on the other side of the wall, there may be requirements/need for 'sturdier' wall studs, but if it's a regular room with double-layered walls, I'm quite sure it will be solid enough the way you have in mind. Maybe you could even replace one of the 34mm studs with a plank if the wall begins against another wall and the 'stud' is only there for screwing the panels into.

You could also, if concerned, add noggings to provide extra support. You might even be able to use 22mm timber, probably, if you add enough noggings, although possibly more studs would be needed then. Another option is to use more than 60cc (e.g., 45cc) if reducing thickness? But as mentioned, you should address any bending as well with noggings or panels.

 

[useless]

I'm offering a free drawing with standard studs.

 

[Lexington]

Maybe so. But why is it important with 45-reglar?

Mostly because it's easier to set OSB.